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Old 11-25-2012, 01:31 AM   #15
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Hi, SilverGate. In one of the above pictures, you can see that I use the plastic "L" bracket pads. I made a tray, that is in my storage compartment, to hold my spring bars.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:52 AM   #16
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Hi, I watched the video and in my opinion there was a few things they did that I consider wrong. This has to do with the hair pin clips.

(1.) Install the spring bar socket pins from the outside with the clips on the inside.

(2.) Always install the "L" pin clips from the front. [open end facing the rear]

The reason that I do this is so that if you ever run over something like a bush, tumble weed, or whatever, it won't pull the pins out. I also bring spare clips.
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #17
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Mark,
You asked how to prevent the frame brackets from slipping. For both of my Equalizers, a 600 and 1000 lb, I had a local welder make the inside of frame straps into a channel iron by welding straps about 3/16" X 1" on each edge of each piece. This prevents the flat straps from bending while tightening them down. Another thing I did was to put two 1/4" stainless steel Tek screws behind each frame bracket. I hung the brackets on the A-frame in the appropriate place and marked at the bracket rear edge. Tek screws are self drilling but I predrilled anyhow. These are located about 1" from top and bottom of the A-frame.
Dan
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:10 AM   #18
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Great thread Bob. I noticed someone had to get a subtle dig in on the Equal-izer. I have no comparison for my opinion, but after 16 weekend trips in the past 12 months I have had zero problems. It took a few minor adjustments to get dialed in, but now rides great.

I like your half-washer idea...perfect for fine tuning. Question though: why so many washers, rather than moving up on the L-bracket? I have never had my L-brackets move around on me...yet, but keep them pretty high toward the frame and use less washers.

I also noticed that the newest Equal-izers do not use the through-bolt that taps into the frame...anyone know why they stopped using it?

Gene
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:17 AM   #19
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I towed a 21 foot Bigfoot with an Equal-I-Zer for 9 years. I had no problems that were not self induced. The only significant problem was trying to back up from the flat to a steep upslope. The rear wheels on the tow vehicle started to spin in the gravel, so I solved the problem by engaging the 4WD. I thought nothing else about it, until I went to hook up to leave a few days later. I found that the hitch seemed to be out of adjustment, because the bar ends were above the bracket. After removing the bars, and inspecting them, I found they both had been bent in the up hill backing. I made do for the rest of the trip, by turning both bars upside down. When I got home I up graded to the larger capacity hitch. I believe the original was 6000# rating on a 6300# GVW trailer. I upgraded to the 10,000# hitch. I also made a note to always remove the bars from the brackets before backing up a steep slope.

Hopefully, this post will keep someone else from learning this lesson the hard way.

Ken
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:30 AM   #20
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This thread is becoming very interesting. I just bought brand "A" because I was dissatisfied with my Equilizer. It was noisy, did little to correct sway and was heavy. The only thing I liked was the ease of hooking up. I would think that 3 different dealers would know how to install one properly. Mine was installed with ball straight up, and "L" bracket holder low on the trailer. I could not adjust the bars higher to transfer weight because the adjusting bolt was in the way. I asked about reversing the "L" bracket holder and was told no because there would not be enough support for the "L" bracket. In looking at Bob's pix, this is what I wanted to do.
I wish this thread had been started earlier and I could have saved $$$. I do like my "A" as it is doing what my "E" should have been doing if it had been installed correctly.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:37 PM   #21
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My used 30' came with an Equal-I-Zer as a package from the PO. I have also changed the bolts just like the pictures from the same reasons stated. I added one other change to my hitch head, I reversed the angle set bolt. Mine had the head out, nice and accessible, but the threaded portion that pushes out and helps hold the head in position while tightening was damaged from unknown causes. I removed the bolt and replaced it but I put the angle set bolt head in contact with the hitch head. Its a bit of a close quarter to get a wrench on it, but it is a setup function only. Only advantage for me, threads can't get damaged and cause problems removing and replacing tension bolt.

I do see some wear where the arm sockets pivot on the hitch head, Bob showed his resurfacing picture.

I made one other modification. I think we all want relaxed towing rather than white knuckle towing. All of the forum discussions and all of the expense on this vs. that etc. etc. I shimmed my shank to receiver to almost remove shank rotation to receiver wobble and it seems after that was when it really calmed down to its present level. No I do not think any significant wear was present on shank or receiver. The receiver was NEVER used for any heavy towing prior to the AS and the entire rig was only 3 years old when I got it. The shims are .040" stainless steel, made myself and one covers two surfaces, the other is 1 surface, all full shank length and the shank slides in. The rotation of shank in receiver is almost gone. There is a clear transfer of "responsibilities" the receiver hands off to the shank and the hitch takes over. But the generous fit of the std. receiver vs. shank allows for a bit of rotation at this junction. The shims have not hardly changed fit since built. YMMV.

I only have one trailer and one hitch to comment on and I'm not a high mileage traveler, but the rig is now running comfortable to drive, no issues to report.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:45 PM   #22
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We have had our current Equal-i-zer hitch set up since '95 and have towed 3 SOBs and now the AS with it. We had it re-set by Crystal Welding with each trailer to make sure it was set up correctly height wise. We've added the nylon pads to the bar rests (or whatever their called) so we don't have to grease them, and are very pleased with their performance. Our oldest son went with another brand set up for his SOB and he likes it, but we've been using his trailer over the summer with that hitch, and went back to ours with the AS this fall. We like Equal-i-zer much better, and it is much easier for me to hitch up by myself if necessary.

Kay
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:09 PM   #23
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Purposly, I am using under rated Equalizer hitches on my trailers. The one for my 25' FC is suggested for the 19' Bambi. But after talking with an Equalizer tech and reading Andy at Inland this is a good hitch considering the 3/4 TON HD TV. I have the new light weight one for the Bambi II. Both work great, 7 years on the larger hitch. I have never, never lubed or greased these hitches. Infact the Equalizer website notes that the best antisway control is steel on steel. Next is steel on greased steel and last is steel on the new pad jackets they sell. I see no reason to grease the hitch ball either. Noise? The hitch is too far away in the pickup, but is noticeable in the Touareg. The only thing I do to them is frequently check torque on the frame brackets. All told I've towed with Equalizers for 12 years.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:15 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, SilverGate. In one of the above pictures, you can see that I use the plastic "L" bracket pads. I made a tray, that is in my storage compartment, to hold my spring bars.
Robert, thanks for the thread. We traded our 25' classic for a 27FB classic a couple years ago and it came with an Equal-i-zer hiitch. 'vast improvement! A couple items:
1) in the quote above you refer to using "the" plastic "L" bracket pads . . . as though these are something regularly and specifically available. I'm unaware of those. Can you say more? Did you make them?
2) my L bracket on the left side wants to migrate forward to the point it crowds the aluminum cover over the LP tanks. I've moved it back a couple times. I mentioned it to a parts guy at the dealer last summer and he said to raise the L bracket by a hole. I did, but it seemed to shift too much weight to the front wheels and the ride was really difficult to endure. I switched it back. 'any thoughts?
Thx. dkb
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:54 PM   #25
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dkb,
Equalizer offers Sway Bracket Jackets for the L brkts. They are not too pricey and do quiet the noises somewhat. I use them on both of my hitches. Something else I do that helps reduce noise a bit is to drill a second hole in the" L- pins". The hair pin above the L brkt seems to decrease the possibility for these pins to wedge against the spring bars. Another forum member did this earlier so I can't take credit for this tip.
Dan
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:05 PM   #26
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Farmboy',

The plastic bracket pads are available from the manufacturer, but as stated above, it reduces friction and makes the hitch less efficient.

Antique',

I don't grease the L brackets because friction there is the point of the hitch. But I do grease the sockets where the front of the bars go because friction there only increases wear and does nothing to make the hitch work better. I also grease the ball because I can't think of any reason to have metal on metal friction there; I think it will prematurely wear the coupler and the ball.

Bob,

Thanks for starting this thread.

We have towed more than 48,000 miles with this hitch. Never any sway or any other problems. Yes, you can put as many washers in as is necessary to adjust the hitch properly. A new one appears to compress the original washers and it is likely after a while you will need more. The dealer did a bad job installing it, but it still towed well. When I adjusted it properly, it towed better.

Someone mentioned the propane line that gets in the way of the L bracket on the curbside. It was not difficult to loosen the propane line and then run the lower bolt for the bracket in the right place. I also put vinyl tubing over the propane lines to protect them, so the line is protected from any abrasion from the bracket assembly.

I read of people having problems with this hitch and others as well. I also read about (and experienced) sloppy installations by dealers. I expect a lot of the complaints about white knuckle towing have to do with poor installations. There may be certain combinations of trailer and tow vehicle that just don't work with this hitch, but there are many more people who have used the Equalizer (easier to spell it this way) and have very good performance. I did find some aspects of the installation procedure to be difficult to understand, but with time and a couple of phone calls to the manufacturer, I figured it out and adjusted it. Some people will struggle with this and may have to find a shop that knows how to install hitches properly.

Gene
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Dan View Post
Mark,
You asked how to prevent the frame brackets from slipping. For both of my Equalizers, a 600 and 1000 lb, I had a local welder make the inside of frame straps into a channel iron by welding straps about 3/16" X 1" on each edge of each piece. This prevents the flat straps from bending while tightening them down. Another thing I did was to put two 1/4" stainless steel Tek screws behind each frame bracket. I hung the brackets on the A-frame in the appropriate place and marked at the bracket rear edge. Tek screws are self drilling but I predrilled anyhow. These are located about 1" from top and bottom of the A-frame.
Dan
Hi, Dan. Dan has a different way of preventing the frame brackets from moving. Maybe Dan can post some pictures showing what he did.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No. 13 View Post
I like your half-washer idea...perfect for fine tuning. Question though: why so many washers, rather than moving up on the L-bracket? I have never had my L-brackets move around on me...yet, but keep them pretty high toward the frame and use less washers.


Gene
Hi, Gene. I did move my "L" brackets up once, but it was too much, so my half washer should be perfect. Also my Lincoln sits lower in front which means that I need more of an angle to compensate for it.
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