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Old 08-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Can anyone tell me what size deep socket to purchase to remove the receiver/shank nuts? Thanks

Kelvin
Hi, 1 1/8".
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:01 PM   #226
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Oops! Been awhile since I had it apart. Yes, you have to pull the top cross bolt out which would allow the head to pivot back so that you could add or remove washers.

When I set mine up, I didn't torque anything down until I had it all sitting level. So it slipped my mind about pulling that top bolt out.

I set mine up six or seven years ago and haven't had to touch it. Once you get it dialed in, you will be happy with it.

cheers,
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:14 AM   #227
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Thanks for the advice. I also contacted Equalizer and they answered some more questions. I'll be contacting the dealer I originally bought the hitch from in AZ to try to get the right shank. I will say though that even set up as is I experienced no issues at all in 7000 miles.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:49 AM   #228
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7,000 miles Jackcat2? Hard to believe you could safely travel that many miles without a Propride or a Hensly...the absolute best investment you can make for your trailer and for the safety of your family...or is it the 16" wheel upgrade. So hard to remember this stuff.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:50 AM   #229
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Okay, No. 13. I rechecked my mileage log. Beginning; 1875 miles. Now; 9740. Approx. unhooked total; under 100. No issues at all. None. Passing semis on both sides, Rocky Mountain crosswinds. One hand driving with no indication of sway. Just had a simple question. Over and out.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:59 PM   #230
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I think if the trailer is far off level, you can overload one trailer axle. Getting the trailer level is # 1, the truck level is # 2, getting the bars level is # 3. I got the first two level, but not the bars. Haven't adjusted the hitch is about 4 or 5 years even after going to 16" wheels. They made little change (less than Bob's 1" difference).

The washers can compress and get loose. I had to add one or two when I adjusted the hitch years ago and I guess it is time to add another one. If you do, get # 8 washers—they are the hardest ones it is easy to find.

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Old 08-29-2013, 07:41 PM   #231
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The trailer needs to be level in an attempt to keep equal weight on it's axles and tires. The Rv dealer who set it up should know that, but it's not unusual for them to do it wrong, collect their fees, and send people out the door with a thumbs up.

The fix would be a longer drop bar for the truck receiver.

doug
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:04 PM   #232
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My saddles on the a-frame are no longer straight up and down. They are both at an angle with the bottom closer to the tow vehicle.
Why/how did this happen?
What do I do to fix it?
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:51 PM   #233
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I had this problem as well; I tried 3 fixes:

1. sway bracket jackets
2. bolt and 2" long spacer in the bottom link plate holes
3. a shim between the bottom of the frame and the lower bolt

Of the 3, #3 (on advice of Equalizer customer service) was the most effective. The link plates slip if either they are warped, or if there is a little slop between the bottom of the frame and the lower bolt. solution #2 minimises the warp, and solution #3 helps keep the stack snug, thus preventing slippage.

I picked up a couple of steel furniture mending plates at the hardware store, about 1/8" thick. they worked perfectly, and my slippage problems are a thing of the past.
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:19 PM   #234
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The trick is getting the bolts tight enough without bending the plate. Since your bolt is between the propane line and the tongue, the plate is less likely to bend. Once I moved the propane line down, I had no problems with movement or bending. Looks like you have to add a shim as several others have done or a spacer between the plates, or both.

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Old 09-02-2013, 06:48 PM   #235
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I might take it by Camper Corral on the way to Canopener and see if they can fix it.
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:55 PM   #236
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I had this same problem. Somewhere on these forums I have a very long and detailed thread on the setup of the hitch and what I went through. On there, I discussed this very issue.

When you tighten the bolts down, they pinch the ends of the link plates toward each other and tend to bow the center outward. Not enough to see, but enough that it takes pressure off the center and the link plates can slide. Mine slid all over the place.

If I loosened them up enough to not bow, then they weren't tight enough to not move either.

I wound up getting 1/2" steel plate and welding my link plates onto them, making a doubler. I then used longer bolts (grade 8) in place of the factory ones to go through the link plates and the 1/2" plate on each side now. I put a piece of rubber from an old inner tube between the trailer tongue and the doubler plates, to provide more friction there than just painted metal against painted metal. That fixed it. 10,000+ miles later and she doesn't move at all now.

To me, that was the single biggest flaw with the whole Equal-I-Zer setup. But it's an easy fix.

One other gent on here just welded the link plates directly to the tongue. That works great too, you just can't move them around any once you do that, and it's a big deal to take them off. But if you don't plan on selling, or will sell the EQ with the trailer, they sure don't move if they're welded

Take care,
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:47 PM   #237
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Hi, JimGolden made some super thick brackets and you can see what I did on post #13. My tow vehicle, hitch, and trailer have been the same for 9 years now. I believe that my modification was done about 6 years ago and haven't slipped since.
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:55 PM   #238
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I just straightened the crooked L brackets and link plates.
One L bracket was loose.
I can't say for certain if the installer torqued the nuts, but they are all at 70 ft. lbs. now.
It took 10-11 months to get loose the first time. Maybe it will stay in place this time. Maybe I will have to check/tighten periodically.
Has anyone had experience with bracket jackets or the new pins with thumb latches? I am considering ordering one or the other, but the bracket jackets and new pins won't work together.
Now, that's more like it.
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