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Old 08-27-2013, 12:25 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
For me to switch to the teflon bracket jackets I'd have to purchase a set of the old pins to use them. The new style pins with the spring clip doesn't work with the current bracket jackets. Equalizer should come out with a new set of jackets.

Kelvin

I recently added the Bracket Jackets.

I am able to use the new version pins by simply drilling a new hole in the pin near the tip & putting a Spring clip through that. It holds it in place & unlike the situation with the old pins, they do not fall down too low & get twisted.

I am not at home right now but can provide pics later in the week if my description is inadequate.

-evan
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:02 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
I have an old Snap On torque wrench that is rated to 250lbs but the large bolts on the head require 320ft/lbs. I guess you need a long extension to put the much torque on the nuts. I think the dealer only used a air wrench to put my Equalizer on. I could hear it going while we were inside going through the orientation. They showed me the trailer was level with the trailer hitched to the Tundra.

How many of you have added/removed washers yourself? What torque wrench did you use? It seems once you get over 250ft/lbs torque wrenches get very expensive.
Maybe I can rent one somewhere?

Or should I just take my truck with the Equalizer head to an RV repair and have them add the washer? How much change can I expect with one washer added to the 4 I have?

Thanks for any advice.

Kelvin

Hi, I have changed my washer count to 6 1/2 washers. One of the washers that I used was about half as thick as the others. I tried seven but the angle was too much and six was not quite enough. To tighten the nuts and bolts on the hitch head, I use a double ended box end wrench to hold one side and a 1/2" breaker bar with a six point socket on the other side. I put a bottle jack under the hitch and stand on the breaker bar. That should be tight enough. I replaced all of the nuts and bolts with grade eight.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:02 PM   #213
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Just ordered the 6000/600 system. Thanks. I also have been doing a lot research. It seems to be a good match with the f150.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:04 PM   #214
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I also did find the gvwr in the the new owners manual I ordered. For my 70 tw.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:30 PM   #215
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Kelvin,

The bolt that you tighten to keep the head unit tight against the washers only requires around 50 ft-lbs. It's not that big a bolt. If you went to 250 ft-lbs on it, you'd probably snap it.

Changing the washers is very easy. You just pull that bolt out, swing the head back, and you can pull out the fitting that the washers sit on. Nothing to it.

The only bolt on the EQ that gets torqued that much is the one holding the ball in place. I went to a truck shop that had the special thin wall socket that would fit, and an impact gun that could go up to 750 ft-lbs tightening (we went to 450 as per the directions). They didn't charge me anything. I can't imagine anyone wanting too much for this. It's a two minute job.

Anyway, don't fear the washers. They're a piece of cake.

Take care,
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:48 PM   #216
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So you don't have to loosen the two 3/4" bolts that mount the head onto the receiver shank to add or remove washers?

Kelvin
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:35 PM   #217
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Kelvin...yes you do. It has been awhile...but you may even have to remove one bolt to pivot back far enough. If you read Bob's post above...a half washer can make a difference...but once tuned in the hitch is great.

It took me a number of fine adjustments..but between the height of the hitch, the number of washers used and the position of the L brackets on the frame, there are a lot of options to get dialed in where it just feels right.

We take lots of short weekend trips...about 30 so far since purchase. I have not adjusted in about a year...I just make sure everything is lubed and torqued every few trips. I tend to just check for looseness rather than get out the torque wrench every trip.

I have been fortunate that my L brackets don't move around like some posts I have read. My particular adjustment with a Tundra keeps the L-brackets in upper position which eliminates some of that pivot leverage.

My EQ hitch which is only 2 years old has the L bracket mount that is drilled and tapped into the frame...not sure that the newer ones are.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:55 AM   #218
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Can anyone tell me what size deep socket to purchase to remove the receiver/shank nuts? Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:07 AM   #219
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I'll look when I get home, but IIRC, it is 1 7/8".......but certain sectors of the old carbon based hard drive are bad.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:10 AM   #220
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I'll look when I get home, but IIRC, it is 1 7/8".......but certain sectors of the old carbon based hard drive are bad.
Oops, thought you were talking about the ball shank.....sorry.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:56 AM   #221
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New question concerning trailer height when hooked to TV. Please forgive my lack of knowledge, this sort of thing is hard for me to figure understand. We have a 2012 Ram 3500 mega cab and fulltime in our 2009 30' Classic. Been on the road since May and have racked up 8000 miles. Our Equilizer has made the driving effortless with our setup. My question, our trailer is not close to level when hooked up, a good three inches too high in the front, very noticeable. Top of the hitch ball is 23 1/2" above ground. My uninformed mind tells me I should change to a shank that would allow the ball to be lowered, then readjust everything. My concern is changing it due to how well it has performed so far. No issues even when passed by semis on either side at the same time. The dealer who installed it said not to worry about the ride height, i'm new at this so took his word, but now I'm not so sure. I have the 14,000 hitch.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:58 AM   #222
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I should've said the ball height is unloaded
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:22 PM   #223
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If the adjustment holes will not do the job then perhaps turning the head over will. One way or the other should do the job. Jim
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:30 PM   #224
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New question concerning trailer height when hooked to TV. Please forgive my lack of knowledge, this sort of thing is hard for me to figure understand. We have a 2012 Ram 3500 mega cab and fulltime in our 2009 30' Classic. Been on the road since May and have racked up 8000 miles. Our Equilizer has made the driving effortless with our setup. My question, our trailer is not close to level when hooked up, a good three inches too high in the front, very noticeable. Top of the hitch ball is 23 1/2" above ground. My uninformed mind tells me I should change to a shank that would allow the ball to be lowered, then readjust everything. My concern is changing it due to how well it has performed so far. No issues even when passed by semis on either side at the same time. The dealer who installed it said not to worry about the ride height, i'm new at this so took his word, but now I'm not so sure. I have the 14,000 hitch.
Hi, your trailer should be as level as possible or a bit lower in front. Preferably never higher in the front. [maybe less than one inch higher in front would be OK]
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