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Old 04-12-2013, 09:58 AM   #155
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dzn that was a very good atricle to read. My setup right now seem good for the measurements on truck front and back but the bars are so hard to get on and off and I am use to making stuff work with force working on oil rigs and farming. I feel it might damage trailer if it takes that much force to get bars on and espically off. Is there a specal safe way to take bars off other than just pulling them sidways and making sure feet are not in the way.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:28 AM   #156
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PedeCanada,

Use the trailer jack to lift the back of the truck up.
That takes the tension off the bars.
Then you can pull them off with one hand.

After they are off, lower the jack back down to where the tongue of the trailer is sitting on the ball, unhook the ball coupler, then run the jack back up, lifting the trailer off the ball altogether. Now you can pull away with the truck.

Piece of cake.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:32 AM   #157
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PedeCanada,

Use the trailer jack to lift the back of the truck up.
That takes the tension off the bars.
Then you can pull them off with one hand.

After they are off, lower the jack back down to where the tongue of the trailer is sitting on the ball, unhook the ball coupler, then run the jack back up, lifting the trailer off the ball altogether. Now you can pull away with the truck.

Piece of cake.
Exactly. most of the AS jacks are 3500# capacity.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:02 PM   #158
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Ped', I think the numbers you were giving were metric. Most of us in the US don't do well with them, but it does help if you identify that you are talking Kg. and Cm.

Note that after a while with a new hitch, the washers tend to compress a bit even though they are hardened. So anther adjustment with more washers is to be expected later.

Gene
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:27 AM   #159
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I will try using jack to lift trailer couplted to truck to get bars off. So if you did not do this would it be very hard to get bars off or am I missing something.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:21 AM   #160
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The difficulty of getting the bars off depends on whether the truck and trailer are at the same level. The higher the truck is, the more difficult. But even with both level, lifting the trailer with the jack is necessary. One bar will come off first, then lift the trailer some more to get the other off. It helps to have someone on each side to see which bar comes off first—for us, it is usually the one on the driver's side.

There is a lever provided with the Equalizer to help get them on, but is less help getting it off. Sometimes I have used a claw hammer to help move the last of the two off the L bracket.

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Old 04-13-2013, 01:11 PM   #161
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I can not even imagine trying to remove bars without first raising the truck with the jack!!!
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:49 PM   #162
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After about a month's ownership and about 1000 miles of towing I noticed the two swinging arms where the bars connected could be swiveled with ease compared to when we first got it. I checked the user manual and those nuts are supposed to be torqued to 45lbs and now I can't budge them. Probably gotta insert the bars. Do these nuts come loose frequently?

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Old 05-07-2013, 03:45 PM   #163
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After about a month's ownership and about 1000 miles of towing I noticed the two swinging arms where the bars connected could be swiveled with ease compared to when we first got it. I checked the user manual and those nuts are supposed to be torqued to 45lbs and now I can't budge them. Probably gotta insert the bars. Do these nuts come loose frequently?

Kelvin
Hi, I think there is some slight wear on the hitch head, temp changes, and the pushing out of the grease that causes this to happen. I replaced my bolts with grade eight bolts and torque them to 80 lbs or 100 lbs depending on how I feel. [they shouldn't be able to move without the help of the spring bars] Before each trip, I take the hitch head apart to clean and re-grease the area where the spring bar sockets ride. On long trips, I try to do them once in the camp ground.
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Old 05-07-2013, 04:05 PM   #164
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I saw that Equalizer is changing their upside down L bracket to be 1 piece rather than having a loose pin at the bottom. I'm going to look into this part because I fear loosing these pins. I have not seen the part on their web site yet. I read it on RVPro
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:24 AM   #165
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Thanks for the help its very easy to get bars on and off now and system seems to work great.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:48 AM   #166
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I saw that Equalizer is changing their upside down L bracket to be 1 piece rather than having a loose pin at the bottom. I'm going to look into this part because I fear loosing these pins. I have not seen the part on their web site yet. I read it on RVPro
Any further details on this change ... or a link?
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:35 AM   #167
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I saw that Equalizer is changing their upside down L bracket to be 1 piece rather than having a loose pin at the bottom. I'm going to look into this part because I fear loosing these pins. I have not seen the part on their web site yet. I read it on RVPro
Equalizer didn't redesign their bracket pads for these brackets either. I have the newer 1 piece style where you just flip over a retaining bar and the retaining bar doesn't clear the nylon bracket pad. I suppose I could cut away some of the material but that may jeopardize the design. I think I'll return the part to eTrailers.

I tightened the end bolts of the swing arm and added some lithium grease and it seemed to help with the noise so I may just bypass the pads.

Kelvin
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:22 PM   #168
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Any further details on this change ... or a link?
Sorry I delete the emails I receive from RVPro. I saw it on Monday or Tuesday's email from them. I copied the part number and tried to find it on their website but couldn't. It does not come up yet.
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