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Old 10-30-2007, 11:03 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
Just remember that you want that 50 lbs. of torque. That is where you get most of your anti-sway control from. It is the pinching of the pivot points that give the sway control. It isn't really the friction that gives you the sway control. So don't under torque these nuts.
The actual specs from Equal-i-zer note that the torque can be set anywhere within 45-60 ft. lbs. I normally only have to make one or two adjustments a year. When the hitch is new, the initial torque from the factory is set even higher since the bolts will loosen up after the first few times you use it.

You shouldn't have to make any adjustments to that torque other than the occasional check.

Jack
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:48 PM   #44
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I've been using the Equal-i-zer for 2 years now. It was installed by the dealer when we bought our 25' Safari FB. We tow it with a 05' F150, 5.4 liter. We've been up and down the California coast and then some, with no complaints or problems. I have yet to feel anything close to unsafe or out of control, even when dicing it out on the So. Cal. Freeway System.
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Old 12-19-2007, 10:45 PM   #45
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Equal-I-zer Tune-up Report

I’ve been meaning to post this for some time now, so I’m sorry about the delay. Before our 33-day trip during September and October, I had a chance to spend some quality time with my hitch settings.

I pulled the truck and fully loaded trailer onto a flat, level, paved parking area, and following the Equal-I-zer Installation Instructions, and Josh Jones’ instructions (see posts #13 and #14 in this thread), I set to work to get an equal squat on the front and rear of the truck with the trailer parallel to the ground.

I first made sure that the link plates were exactly 32” back from the center of the hitch ball. I also used a speed-square to make sure they were perpendicular to the frame. After I tightened them down, making sure the top and bottom bolts were tightened equally, without bowing the plates, I marked their position on the frame so I could see if they moved during towing.

My dealer, who you may recall from some of my other posts on this subject, had installed the hitch incorrectly by putting the curbside link plate bolt below the gas line, had set the L-Brackets in the third hole from the top. When I took it back to him to have him correct the installation, he moved the brackets to the fourth hole from the top to correct the nose down position of the trailer. And this is where I started, with the measurements I posted in Post #13, five spacer washers installed, and the brackets in the fourth hole. As Josh pointed out, there was insufficient weight transfer to the truck.

I first raised the L-Brackets up to the fifth hole; this transferred more weight to the truck, but resulted in a noticeable nose up on the trailer and bars that were pointing up at the back instead of being parallel to the frame. The fourth hole for the brackets gave me essentially parallel bars, so I returned them to that setting.

I then began the iterative process of unhitching, disassembling the hitch head, adding a spacer washer, reassembling the head, hitching up, and taking measurements. It took two more washers for a total of seven spacer washers (eight is the maximum) to get the results I wanted.

With seven spacer washers, and the L-Brackets in the fourth hole the truck squats 1/2” in the front, 5/8” in the back, and the trailer is 3/16” higher in the front. Based on what I was measuring as I added washers, an additional washer would have made the front of the truck lower than the back and raised the front of the trailer even more. In the photos, you can see the seven washers, the down-angle of the hitch head that creates the weight transfer, the level bars, and the L-Bracket settings and marks (note the gas line is below the link plate bolt).

After a couple of days on the road, my morning check revealed that one of the link plates slipped, so I realigned it with the marks and tightened it a little more than before. None of the plates have slipped since. The curb-side square head bolts that holds the L-Bracket in place seems to loosen slightly and I ensure it is tight at the beginning of the day. The street-side bolt behaves a Josh said it would just wobbling in place with the bracket but not loosening.

I thought it was good before, but after making these adjustments, the performance of the hitch is phenomenal. In the 4,000 miles we towed on this last trip, the handling was rock steady. No trailer sway at all under any wind, road, or traffic conditions, just easy one-handed steering.

Randy
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:10 AM   #46
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SilverCabin - nice post . Would you mind posting the dimension of your hitch setup from the center of the hitch pin in the receiver to the center of the ball. That would be very helpful as I am researching these units and need a bit more length on my ball mount setup.

Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:29 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverCabin

I thought it was good before, but after making these adjustments, the performance of the hitch is phenomenal. In the 4,000 miles we towed on this last trip, the handling was rock steady. No trailer sway at all under any wind, road, or traffic conditions, just easy one-handed steering.

Randy
Randy,

I'm not sure if it is possible, so you would need to check with Progressive Mfg. first, but from the looks of your hitch bar you have 1-2" that you could use to move the hitch ball closer to the rear bumper. You'd have to drill another hole in your bar but you would also notice an additional improvement in the handling.

Just a suggestion. Please check with Progressive if you want to do that.
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Old 12-20-2007, 11:24 AM   #48
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Just so I don't confuse everyone else...

My post above states Progressive as the manufacturer of Equal-i-zer.

It is actually Progress Mfg.

I had Progressive Dynamics on my mind when I posted. Sorry about that.
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:41 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tetstream
SilverCabin - nice post . Would you mind posting the dimension of your hitch setup from the center of the hitch pin in the receiver to the center of the ball. That would be very helpful as I am researching these units and need a bit more length on my ball mount setup.

Thanks.
tet,

From the center of the hitch pin in the receiver to the center of the ball measures exactly 13".

Randy
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Old 12-21-2007, 01:03 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff
Randy,

I'm not sure if it is possible, so you would need to check with Progressive Mfg. first, but from the looks of your hitch bar you have 1-2" that you could use to move the hitch ball closer to the rear bumper. You'd have to drill another hole in your bar but you would also notice an additional improvement in the handling.

Just a suggestion. Please check with Progressive if you want to do that.
Sean,

I wouldn't need to drill any more holes as my receiver has another hole 1 7/8" towards the front of the truck (see photo 1). Photo 2 is how I currently mount the hitch bar. I can close the gap that you noticed by mounting the hitch bar in that more forward hole, thereby moving the trailer closer to the rear of the truck (photo 3).

Question for the experts: Would this really make that much of a difference in handling? The disadvantages from my perspective are 1) the end of the hitch bar when in the more forward hole looks like it might interfer with lowering the truck's spare tire, so if changing a flat, I might need to pull the hitch out of the receiver too. And 2) after I made all the settings I described above, I noticed that I could now fully open the truck's tailgate--I liked that. With the hitch in the more forward hole, that wouldn't be possible again as it would hit the jack post.

Thanks for the help and advice,

Randy
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Old 12-21-2007, 01:32 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverCabin
Sean,

I wouldn't need to drill any more holes as my receiver has another hole 1 7/8" towards the front of the truck (see photo 1). Photo 2 is how I currently mount the hitch bar. I can close the gap that you noticed by mounting the hitch bar in that more forward hole, thereby moving the trailer closer to the rear of the truck (photo 3).

Question for the experts: Would this really make that much of a difference in handling? The disadvantages from my perspective are 1) the end of the hitch bar when in the more forward hole looks like it might interfer with lowering the truck's spare tire, so if changing a flat, I might need to pull the hitch out of the receiver too. And 2) after I made all the settings I described above, I noticed that I could now fully open the truck's tailgate--I liked that. With the hitch in the more forward hole, that wouldn't be possible again as it would hit the jack post.

Thanks for the help and advice,

Randy
Randy, I see now and YES it will make a difference. The more forward, toward the rear axle, the better your trailer will handle. You'd be surprised at what an inch or two can do when you're talking the weight and leverage involved in towing.

On the other hand, you'd have to determine for yourself if it is worth it in light of the tongue jack clearance.
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Old 12-21-2007, 02:56 PM   #52
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Its amazing to me the expertise of the above posts and the great pics, but I never saw the magic word. You can make adjustments till the cows come home and never know exactly what you have done till you say and Use the magic word .SCALES Wieght distrubution cannot be proven till you use the SCALES. Ok sorry off my soapbox .
Merry Christmas
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:52 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff
Randy, I see now and YES it will make a difference. The more forward, toward the rear axle, the better your trailer will handle. You'd be surprised at what an inch or two can do when you're talking the weight and leverage involved in towing.

On the other hand, you'd have to determine for yourself if it is worth it in light of the tongue jack clearance.
Sean,

Would moving the trailer closer to the truck affect the turning radius? One of the things I like about my set-up (F-150, 23' Airstream) is that it gives me lots of margin when getting into tight places and out of jams (like having to make a U-turn on a side street). I wouldn't want the truck and trailer to touch in those situations. Right now the separation is comfortable.

Also, it seems like it might also change my tune-up settings, since the hitch bar would have a little different leverage on the receiver and truck frame. BTW: I like your website.

Randy
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:56 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikethefixit
Its amazing to me the expertise of the above posts and the great pics, but I never saw the magic word. You can make adjustments till the cows come home and never know exactly what you have done till you say and Use the magic word .SCALES Wieght distrubution cannot be proven till you use the SCALES. Ok sorry off my soapbox .
Merry Christmas
Mike,

You're right. I wanted to put my truck and trailer on a scale throughout our whole trip, and never found a public scale. Next time I'm loaded for a big trip (Bozeman in June 2008) I will try to get that done. That would be the final determination that all is as it should be.

Thanks, and Merry Christmas to you to,

Randy
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:40 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverCabin
Sean,

Would moving the trailer closer to the truck affect the turning radius? One of the things I like about my set-up (F-150, 23' Airstream) is that it gives me lots of margin when getting into tight places and out of jams (like having to make a U-turn on a side street). I wouldn't want the truck and trailer to touch in those situations. Right now the separation is comfortable.

Also, it seems like it might also change my tune-up settings, since the hitch bar would have a little different leverage on the receiver and truck frame. BTW: I like your website.

Randy
Yes, it would shorten the turning radius. That is another consideration along with the tongue jack clearance.

It would change the settings slightly also.

If it is a stable combination now, then you may want to just leave it. However, if you notice some movement back there then moving the pivot point forward will help. At that point you would have to dial in the weight distribution and be mindful of the turning radius.

You gave me an idea on this turning radius point. I am going to draw up how much it shortens the turning radius on an average truck with every inch forward the ball is moved.

Thanks for the compliment on the website. It is a daily "work in progress" so check back often. Sign-up for the My RV Talk newsletter and I'll be publishing tips from time to time. Not a lot. Any suggestions on what should be included to make the site a more valuable resource for the RV community are always welcome too. A lot of what is there now came from suggestions from the community.
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:43 PM   #56
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Sean,

I'd like to see that graph when you have it done.

Thanks,

Randy
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