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Old 09-04-2007, 02:04 PM   #29
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The biggest trick is when you put the ball onto the hitch,................

I just got my hitch a couple of weeks ago and took a look at it this weekend. I was wondering how to check the torque on that shank/nut combo underneath the ball. I own lots of tools and I couldn't come up with anything that would work.
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Old 09-04-2007, 02:22 PM   #30
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Well, Equal-i-zer sells a thin wall socket to fit. It's $74! I ordered one and my torque wrench won't fit it.
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:01 PM   #31
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Jdthor,

Find yourself a local garage that works on diesel trucks. Big rigs. They probably have a socket that will work and a big impact gun to boot.

I went to the garage that my company owns to maintain their fleet of trucks. The first socket they had was like the one I had; normal thickness and so wouldn't fit. But they dug in the tool box and sure enouch, they had a thin wall socket. They also had a 3/4" drive impact gun to boot. The gun could do 700 ft-lbs to tighten and 1100 ft-lbs to loosen. So it was pretty easy to get 450 ft-lbs.

Anyway, you should be able to find a truck garage that could do this for you. My guys did it for free. I can't imagine it being more than $20. They'd probably do it for free as well.

To do it at home, you'd need the socket and a proper drive breaker bar (forget using a torque wrench unless you've got the green to have a big 3/4" drive one...I have no need of a wrench that big...). You'd need to put a "cheater bar" (aka a pipe) over the breaker bar, come out like 10' and use a bathroom scale between you and the cheater to push 45 lbs on the cheater bar's end. A lot less trouble to find a truck garage and let them do it.

Cheers,
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:36 PM   #32
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This thread made up my mind for me!

I was "on the fence" about going with an Equal-i-zer hitch with the newer trailer.
I did not have a need for a new WD hitch set-up before I bought the new pick-up. My old standard WD hitch had a welded shank and head. This is set up WAY too high for the Silverado.
I was trying to decide between a standard WD set-up, a dual cam set-up or the Equal-i-zer.
I have read every post on here. I now feel more than confident that the Equal-i-zer is my best possible option for the cost involved!
Thanks to Jim and the rest of you who have shared in making this thread one of the best on the forum!
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Old 09-05-2007, 09:32 AM   #33
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Glad to be of help. This is a great place to hang out.

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Old 09-05-2007, 05:53 PM   #34
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Glad I could help!

Glad I could be of help. You guys have taught me the equivalent of a 4-year degree and I am very appreciative of that. I'm just happy to return a little of the favor.

If the link plates give you too much grief, weld 'em on and call it a day!
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Old 09-05-2007, 10:38 PM   #35
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I have my plates welded on. Solved the problem.

John
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Old 09-07-2007, 12:04 PM   #36
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I'll be setting up my Equalizer hitch this weekend, and will be armed with a printed copy of this thread ... Thanks to all of your tips, I have a much higher degree of confidence that my rig will be set up correctly the first time.
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Old 10-28-2007, 12:21 PM   #37
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Equal-i-zer Alignment with the tow vehicle

I have read through quite a few posts and can't seem to find a discussion on alignment problems with the Equalizer. After reading this thread I seem to have the rig fairly well set up, but I have had a recurring problem since installing the Equalizer. When I get on the highway if there is a curve on the ramp the tow vehicle and the trailer seem to be mis-aligned. I feel this is the case since my steering wheel is often cocked one direction or the other. If I pull off the highway and nudge the trailer straight it seems to be fine.

Has anyone else noticed this?
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Old 10-28-2007, 08:30 PM   #38
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Chris,

Could you elaborate a little more on what you're experiencing? I'm not sure I understand what is happening. I'd be glad to try to help, but I'm having a dense moment here

Thanks,
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:14 PM   #39
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Chris,

I have noticed this at times. A couple of things seems to help: Reduce the torque slightly on the nuts at the hitch end of the bars, and lubricate both ends. I think that high distribution loads--and a lot of friction-- prevent the whole setup from returning to center, and this is transmitted through to the steering. Kind of like a sticky pendulum. Hope this helps.

Terry
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:19 AM   #40
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OK, I understand now.

Yes, check the torque on the nuts on the hitch head that the load bars pivot in. It should be, I belive, 50 ft-lbs. It's easy to torque a lot higher than that, and that may be giving you too much resistance there.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:35 AM   #41
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Thank you both for your comments

I will try that shortly.
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Old 10-30-2007, 10:01 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimGolden
OK, I understand now.

Yes, check the torque on the nuts on the hitch head that the load bars pivot in. It should be, I believe, 50 ft-lbs. It's easy to torque a lot higher than that, and that may be giving you too much resistance there.
Just remember that you want that 50 lbs. of torque. That is where you get most of your anti-sway control from. It is the pinching of the pivot points that give the sway control. It isn't really the friction that gives you the sway control. So don't under torque these nuts.
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