Equal-i-zer Hitch Question

Cracker · 12-04-2003, 11:00 AM

Three questions:

1.) What is the hookup procedure with the equalizer?

2.) What constitutes the "friction material" where the bars enter the hitch head?

3.) Is the friction adjustment automatic - or does it require setting?

I've requested the video but my curiosity is getting the best of me!

**jcanavera** · 12-04-2003, 12:17 PM

I'm a new owner of this hitch so I'm still learing. Apparently friction is applied at the point where the trunion bars connect to the hitch head. That connection point pivots but is placed under pressure by the weight of the trailer on the hitch ball. On the opposite end of the trunion bar, there is a bracket which keeps the trailer side of the bar from pivoting.

All in all the system works great. I have used a Reese dual-cam control for over 8 years and this Equal-i-zer system works great. I pulled back from the dealer in some heavy wind conditions on a metopolitan Interstate highway and the trailer hung right in with the van with no instance of sway. Personally I felt it was more steady than what I have seen with the dual-cam.

The only down side is that this hitch requires you to lift the trailer and tow vehicle with the power jack to a fairly good height to easily remove the bar from the trailer side. They supply a tool that helps lift the bar when you hitch up but it doesn't help on taking off the bar.

One postitive is that if the tow vehicle is angled to the trailer, it is much easier to hook up or unhitch the Equal-i-zer than the Reese.

Note that the Equal-i-zer requires no holes to be drilled in the frame of your trailer (the reason why I went to this hitch). The new HP dual-cam requires holes, the old dual cam may not but many times the U-bolts interfere with the gas bottle mounts on some Airstreams.

Hookup is a matter of connecting the trailer to the ball. Raising the trailer and tow vehicle with the trailer jack. Slide in a trunion bar into a small box holder on the ball side of the hitch, insert a locking pin. Slide in the second trunion bar into the other holder on the ball side of the hitch and insert the locking pin. Push each trunion bar in so it is somewhat parallel to the A frame portion of the trailer frame. At that point it will slide over a plate that is parallel to the ground. If you don't have enough height you need to use the tool which will help you lift the end of the trunion bar on to this plate. Once on the plate you have a small bracket that looks like an upside down L. It slides down a hole in the plate and the top of the bracket now envelops the trunion bar. You slip in another locking pin and you are now done. Lower the jack and you're set to go.

Jack

Leipper · 12-04-2003, 06:10 PM

There is a bolt on the spring bar receivers (just to each side of the ball) that should be tightened to 45 in-lb (check manual to verify this spec) - this is your friction damping adjustment.

Hookup is the same as for any load leveling hitch. Drop the coupler on the ball, set the ball latch. Lift the ball 5-10 inches so you can load the spring bars (with the Eq this is setting them on the L bracket rather than lifting a chain bracket), secure the brackets, lower the ball, hookup safety chains, etc.

for some ideas on hitch setup, see
http://sierranevadaairstreams.org/ow...tch-setup.html

If the hitch makes too much noise, grease the L brackets and the receiver as per manual.

**jcanavera** · 12-04-2003, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Leipper
There is a bolt on the spring bar receivers (just to each side of the ball) that should be tightened to 45 in-lb (check manual to verify this spec) - this is your friction damping adjustment.

According to the factory the hitches leave the plant set at 60 in-lb. Operating specs are 45. They said that the hitch will loosen up after a few tows which is why they ship them at 60. 45 is the proper torque. Apparently the hitch weight provides some pressure on the assembly along with the torque adjustment. They advertise 4 way sway control so these are 2 of the 4 methods.

Jack

Cracker · 12-05-2003, 08:29 AM

I'm still curious to know if there is anything other than metal to metal contact creating the desired friction? It seems like the friction would vary considerably with wear - or heat - if it's only metal to metal.

**jcanavera** · 12-05-2003, 08:51 AM

My advice would be to give the Equal-i-zer folks a call. As I noted earlier I have been a Reese person from quite a few years so I was somewhat reluctant to make a change. I called and talked to a gentleman who gave me the information I needed to feel good about my decision. Their 800 number is on their web page.

Personally the video they put out falls short of giving me the information that I was looking for.

Jack