For anyone interested in the Equal-i-zer brand hitch here is some information based on my first 2000 miles. I am towing a new 2003 Airstream Safari 25 (GVWR 6300 lbs) with a 2002 Ford Explorer V8 (Tow Rating 7000 lbs) using Equal-i-zer's model 1722B 10,000 lb hitch.
1. Equal-i-zers web site (www.equalizerhitch.com
) includes a calculator to determine which shank you need based on the trailer's hitch height and the tow vehicles height. It recommended the longest 105BXL12 (sometimes listed as 105BXXL12) shank for me, while I should have had the middle sized 105BL12. I am using the highest setting, and the shank limited my ground clearance to only 3". I had a machine shop cut 3" excess from the shank, giving me a comfortable 6" clearance.
2. The hitch weighs 100 lbs! Keep that in mind as it adds to your tongue weight.
3. It requires a ball with a long shank or thinner lockwasher to have enough threads to properly secure the ball nut. A standard ball/washer will not fit. It was tough to find a ball locally - I eventually found a 12,000# ball with a nylock nut that works. You may want to order a ball when you order the hitch.
4. The main casting is not machined flat where the ball attaches, but should have been. After you attach the ball the casting irregularities, weld spatter, and paint will crush slightly resulting in a loose ball. Retighten the ball frequently at first!
5. The main casting is not machined where the equalizer bars pivot, so the first few hundred turns result in groaning and clunking while the pivots grind off the casting irregulaties. Eventually the hitch "machines itself" smooth and quiets down. Keep cleaning and greasing it.
6. The brackets for the equalizer bars go all the way around the trailer's A-frame 32" back from the ball. I had to cut a slot in the battery mount to allow for this. See Brackets
Also, the bolts for these brackets do not come with lock washers - so add your own or use some Lock-Tight.
7. Otherwise the hitch works fine, is easy to connect/disconnect, and no sway problems.