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Old 04-05-2012, 06:23 PM   #15
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I guess the tundra is much more stiff than the 4 runner as I lower the hitch the tundra is not moving at all whereas the 4 runner would go into a squadding mode.

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Old 04-05-2012, 06:24 PM   #16
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I would bet that, at worst, you may have to move the L-brackets up or down one hole to adjust between the 2 trucks. 2 bolts and 5 minutes.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:30 PM   #17
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Eventually the Tundra will be full time I think I probably going to eyeball them next time I hitch them up if they don't look right I will have to tweak it and leave them like that.

Thanks so much, this help a lot,
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:47 PM   #18
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To the OP:

The more weight on the RA the better the EQ will perform. There are threads around here more specific to that hitch type (search) and a thread or three on how to properly set up any WDH hitch (see thread: "CAT Scale . . . "). Getting things roughed-in with height measurements is a start. To make it the best it can be needs a certified weight scale so that final adjustments (and TV tire pressure) are ideal.

The EQ is a second tier hitch, but it should perform well for you with the vehicles described.

.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:37 PM   #19
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Equal-i-zer + add on sway control?

Greetings mcintoshMD!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcintoshMD View Post
Eventually the Tundra will be full time I think I probably going to eyeball them next time I hitch them up if they don't look right I will have to tweak it and leave them like that.

Thanks so much, this help a lot,
I am not as familiar with the Equal-I-zer hitch as I am with the Reese Dual Cam, but I have a similar situation with two Vintage trailers and two tow vehicles. With my situation, one trailer requires the 2 5/16" coupler ball while the other requires a 2" coupler ball; and one tow vehicle has very stiff suspension with a high mounted receiver while the other tow vehicle has very soft/compliant suspension with a very low mounted receiver. Rather than constantly re-setting my ball mounts, I have four ball mounts set up for each combination. It seems extravagant, but it was a savings in the long-run as it is hitch-up and go as each hitch head is adjusted to the tow vehicle/trailer combination - - hitch height, ball angle, etc. One way to economize on the hitch heads is to take in the swap meet at the WBCCI International Rally . . . it is nearly always possible to purchase an adjustable hitch head for well below the price of new . . . that is how I found three of mine.

Good luck with your towing combinations!

Kevin
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
To the OP:

The more weight on the RA the better the EQ will perform. There are threads around here more specific to that hitch type (search) and a thread or three on how to properly set up any WDH hitch (see thread: "CAT Scale . . . "). Getting things roughed-in with height measurements is a start. To make it the best it can be needs a certified weight scale so that final adjustments (and TV tire pressure) are ideal.

The EQ is a second tier hitch, but it should perform well for you with the vehicles described.

.
Hello,
I followed the link of your (sold) AS image, I noticed that you have the equalizer attached to your AS for storage. How do you that? I have to lift mine from the garage, take aim and hook it up to the back of my truck and then back the truck to the AS. Reverse the process when I come back home. My back is getting ready to kill me.

Thanks,
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:33 AM   #21
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If I understand correctly, let me clear up a couple of things, minor to major : the trailer is a different brand ("vintage kin" as they say around here), and the hitch is a Hensley Arrow.

So I can't say I can answer your questions except with this:

The Hensley "head" attaches almost permanently to the trailer coupler (just locked down) and is otherwise attached of its' own devices to the jacks (via struts).

But I do understand the low, bad angle on a heavy hitch head (being 19-years old was a long while back). I've seen folks use a milk jug carton. Lift it on and slide it up to the trailer. And similar ways.

What I'd really recommend is to pull up one of the old long threads on the Equal-I-Zer and re-post this question there. What's great about AIR is that there is (in a manner of speaking) no unanswered question . . . there's already three solutions to any given problem. And whomever it was posted on that thread will be alerted that it is up and about again.

Title search with hitch name in box.

.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:46 AM   #22
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Sorry, wondered why it looks a little different, thought it was an old model, but the idea of keeping the equalizer to be attached to the AS all the time is tempting. Since, it's a pain to connect and reconnect this 60# necessity.

Thanks,
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:13 PM   #23
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Andy,
Here is my 2 cents worth. Have pulled trailers, SOB and AS, for many years. I have a friend with an SOB, 27'. He bought an Equalizer and raved about it. I found a used Equalizer w/ 1000# bars and towed my 30' Classic w/ slide that has hitch weight of 920# to FL. and back this winter. Tow truck is '10 F150 w/max tow pkg and 5.4 gas w/6spd auto. It was the most pleasant towing trip ever for me. Even in St. Louis, second only to Atlanta for places I hate to tow, I found myself at ease and sometimes only one hand on the wheel. Semis passing didn't bother one bit!! In your OP you asked about the "bracket jackets" for silencing the friction noises. I used them and they did the job they were designed for. I had very little noise from the hitch. I think the occasional noise was from the side of the bars sliding against the L bracket. I plan to get another Equalizer w/ bracket jackets for my smaller trailer when my son tows it to the Black Hills this summer. (As a little added security I put a bolt in the empty hole on the top of the L brackets, just in case the set screws work loose. Some adjustments may not leave a hole above the brackets to do this.) Dan
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:44 PM   #24
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The bracket pads make our EQ brand hardly noticable as far as noises while underway ... you can, however, still hear the metal to metal noises when just moving around the yard / parking. We mark our L-bracket positions with paint dots to ease in adjustment and for use between vehicles. Ask your wife or daughter for some old fingernail polish; that makes the job easy!
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