Equal-i-zer

[SilverCabin]

Originally Posted by Phil Gobie

I am no expert. I am actually new to all of this. But it seems to me after reading about and looking at the different systems that an active sway system would be better. The dual cam and the Hensley know where strait is and want to get back there. a friction sway control does not know center or strait. Can you back up with the sway bar connected?

What the Equal-i-zer does is stiffen the joint between the TV and trailer so that any side-to-side motion of the trailer is dampened. So far, I have to say that works very well for my TV/trailer combination.

No expert here either, and I'm not familiar with the dual cam or Hensley (the Hensley I was told was overkill for my set-up), but is there something spring loaded in those that pushes the parts back to center? That would be the only thing that would attempt to get you back to straight.

And, yes, you can back up with the Equal-i-zer bars connected.

[SilverToy]

You can drive all day with the Equal-i-zer, in any weather - no adjustments needed. When you get to your destination, you can back right into the prettiest spot without needing to do anything - then un-hitch as per normal. Simple normal occational checking on fastener tightness, and lube it... and away you go.

Easy!, very effective on the road, and 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the high end hitches...

Equal-i-zer for me!!! Come on in, the waters fine...! Join the crowd...

Axel

[SilverCabin]

Just returned from our second time out with our trailer/TV/Equal-i-zer combination, and very pleased with the performance. I definitely recommend that you lube the hitch and ball per the manufacturer’s instructions. When we brought ours home the first time, it sounded like a machine shop was following us. This time there was hardly any noise at all. On the Equal-i-zer web site, you can purchase a small squeeze bottle of what they call socket lube. That’s what I used. I’m sure any good quality axel grease would work, but the small bottle fits nicely in the tool box. I also purchased one of their lost pin survival kits—my Boy Scout “Be Prepared” training.

Lubing the hitch had no apparent affect on the performance of the hitch. On this last trip, we drove through some driving rains and breezy days. Some of the roads were rutted from heavy traffic creating continuous puddles that create hydroplaning hazards. The trailer was very stable hitting these puddles at speed. Trucks passing, or us passing them (with one exception) had no more effect on the TV/trailer than just driving the TV alone. The one exception was car haulers. They seem to throw off a lot more turbulence than the 18-wheeler vans. Seemed like we encountered buffeting (but no control problems) for a longer period of time when they passed.

We did encounter the problem reported in this thread with loose L-brackets. One of ours kept coming loose, even though we tightened it before each day’s departure. Do you think coating the square head bolt with Loctite® Threadlocker Blue (or Red) would keep it tight?

My challenge now is addressing storage of the hitch head and bars now that they’re greasy. I have an idea for a wooden platform/cradle that I can set the head in, and maybe some covers for the cradle and bars. Then I could store the thing in the doorway of the trailer without damaging or dirtying the trailer floor when it’s in the storage yard, and not be tripping over it in my garage. If anyone has built such a thing or seen anything that could work, I’d love to see it. Whatever/whenever I come up with something, I'll share it with the group.

[crazylev]

I store the bars in the trunk area of the Bambi. I very carefully lay them in in there and usually they are resting on a coiled fresh water hose. The two ends of the bar are the dirtiest, but the way I position them, they don't come into contact with anything.

They will definatley not shift around, since they would have to be in use if the trailer is moving. Storage only.

Depending on where we are camped and how secure I feel the area is, I may just leave them out of sight against a tree, or somewhere in back of the AS.

If we are just spending a few nights somewhere and are staying close to the campground, I leave the hitch in the receiver. Otherwise it goes in the back of the van on newspaper that I will then "recycle" to start a fire.

In storage, the hitch sits on Airstream door mat covered with newspaper.

What I do that is really helpful is to take a plastic grocery bag and cover the hitch while still in the receiver. This keeps you and the place where you are going to store it from getting even dirtier, but I still use a pair of two dollar gloves from Home Depot when moving that chunk of iron.

Jonathan

[SilverCabin]

Originally Posted by crazylev

In storage, the hitch sits on Airstream door mat covered with newspaper.

Jonathan

Jonathan,

Doesn't the hitch head dent the floor? I had it setting on my bed rug in the truck bed and it sure left some dents in that, but that is softer than the floor. That's why I was thinking of a wood cradle.

I like the grocery bag idea. I'll use that next time or until I build something.

[crazylev]

Between having the AS matt and alot of newspaper I have not really seen any marks. Besides, they'd be under the matt where I'd never see them anyway

I suppose you could get some bubble wrap and sandwich that in there somewhere. I also try to make sure that the hitch rests upright and sits on the bar socket thingies.

BTW- I keep all the l-brackets, cotter pins etc. together in a small wire mesh 3x5 index card box, and keep that next to the door next to the booze.

I too bought the emergency pin and part set from Equilizer. I figure if I have it, I won't need it...

Jonathan

[myoung]

To store the Equal-i-zer in the back of our SUV, I took an idea from someone on this Forum and built a wooden box to hold all the parts. I disconnect the two square bars in put them in the box first. It's very easy to connect/disconnect the bars. Then, the ball hitch goes into the box. By separating the parts, I hope to pospone the hernia.

I should also get a second set of pins to keep elsewhere in the SUV just in case I lose one of these essential components.

[azflycaster]

I have an older Reese setup with the Trunion style head. I store the arms in a rifle case that came from the PO. It fits out of the way under the bed, no mess and easy to use. I store the head in the trailer on top of a hard rubber welcome mat.

[SilverCabin]

Originally Posted by myoung

To store the Equal-i-zer in the back of our SUV, I took an idea from someone on this Forum and built a wooden box to hold all the parts. I disconnect the two square bars in put them in the box first. It's very easy to connect/disconnect the bars. Then, the ball hitch goes into the box. By separating the parts, I hope to pospone the hernia.

I should also get a second set of pins to keep elsewhere in the SUV just in case I lose one of these essential components.

That's kind of what I was thinking of, a box or platform/cradle with handles. Postponing the hernia is always a worthwhile undertaking

You can get pin sets directly from Progress Mfg. on the web: Equal-i-zer® Hitch - The “American Original” with 4-Point Sway Control™ and Weight Distribution

[SilverGate]

Thanks, Randy for fine report on Equal-i-zer WD Hitch…
And for the reminder to lube hitch and keep bolts tightened.
Here’s one solution for hitch and bar(s) storage:
"Quick Hints for Happy Airstreaming" by John Irwin,
Airstream Life Magazine, Spring 2006, page 74:

[SilverCabin]

SilverGate,

Thanks for that picture. That's kind of what I was thinking about. Although lifting the whole thing together by the handles might bring back the hernia concerns, this looks like a workable solution. I'll make up some plans for the 10,000#/1,000# hitch I have and post them for all.

[B25guy]

RGodfrey,

I've posted somewhere else on this forum an alternate method of attaching the L-bracket/clamps to the A-frame. Since doing this, I have not had to touch the square bolt or tighten anything. It greatly improved the rigidity of the mount and gave me the feeling that what little movement was happening between the L-brackets and bars was going entirely towards reducing side-to-side and up-and-down oscillations/tendencies.

If I could point you to the pictures I posted, I would...or PM me and I'll just send them to you.

I did mention this to the manufacturer but got no interest in pursuing.

Marc

[CanoeStream]

Marc -- Your have a number of posts on this topic. Ten various posts start here. And another here. Keep this up and we'll make you the guru of Equal-i-zers.

[SilverCabin]

Thanks B25. I found the pictures in the first link in Canoe Stream's reply. It's post #40. Thanks Canoe Stream for the pointer.

I'll take a look at my set-up when I bring it home again in a few weeks and see if this could work.