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Old 06-20-2007, 10:12 AM   #1
Rivet Master

 
Kistler's Avatar
Profile:  2002 25' Classic
Oro Valley , Arizona
Posts: 799

Dual Cam? Hang 6 instead of 5?

Good a.m., My Expedition seems to sit more level if I "hang six" links on my dual cam on each side......the bars are not quite level with the hitch A frame but close.

Do you think this is OK? There is a little more popping when I turn but it always did some of that.

The dealer in Phoenix canted the ball to the most (#6 on the concentric washer) possible because I complained about heading sky-ward Really what bothered me was truckers in the early dawn thinking and flashing bright lights at me because my headlights were up....I was on low beam.

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2003 Expedition EB 5.4L, AWD, AdvanceTrac Class IV hitch pkg. Reese dual cam/Prodigy
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:37 AM   #2
Rivet Master
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Profile:  Corona , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
Good a.m., My Expedition seems to sit more level if I "hang six" links on my dual cam on each side......the bars are not quite level with the hitch A frame but close.

Do you think this is OK? There is a little more popping when I turn but it always did some of that.

The dealer in Phoenix canted the ball to the most (#6 on the concentric washer) possible because I complained about heading sky-ward Really what bothered me was truckers in the early dawn thinking and flashing bright lights at me because my headlights were up....I was on low beam.
Always count the links "under stress."

5 links under stress for a Reese straightline hitch, is perfect.

4 or 6 is acceptable, provided the bars bend at least 3/4 of an inch, or more.

The greater the bend, the better the sway control works.

Mine would bend 1 1/2 to 2 inches.

I could tow all day and night with two fingers on the steering wheel.

A correct Reese set up has the trailer level with respect to itself, and the tow vehicle level with respect to itself.

At the same time, the bars should be parallel with the chassis and held in position with 5 links under stress, "AND" have 3/4 of an inch bend, or more.

If your setup does not match those specs, then something is wrong.

Could be too much bar rating, imoproper tilt on the ball mount or improper ball height .

A proper rated, properly installed, and properly adjusted load equalizing hitch, will "never" cause the headlights to be too high.

I would suggest you check the rigging to see whats wrong.

Andy
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Last edited by Inland RV Center, In; 06-20-2007 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:56 AM   #3
Rivet Master

 
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Profile:  2002 25' Classic
Oro Valley , Arizona
Posts: 799

Thank you, Andy. I was counting, and have always counted, the loose ones. I will have to take note next time I hook up what number of links are under stress.

My problem is, with the cant at maximum, and 5 links loose I am still headed up.

Kistler
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:12 PM   #4
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Profile:  1978 31' Excella 500
Venice , California
Posts: 888

When you have enough tension on the eq bars the whole rig will sit level. Think of it this way: When just using a hitch ball, the trailer tongue will push down on the ball-the ball and socket joint will pivot in the vertical plane and the truck nose and trailer rear will elevate while the tonge and truck rear will go down. When you add the equalizer bars and put sufficient tension on them, the ball and socket is restricted from pivoting in the verticle plane-the tongue weight of the trailer pushes down on the entire truck front and back, keeping it and the trailer level. Too little tension and the angle between the truck and trailer is less than 180 degrees (a vee shape) and too much tension and the angle is greater than 180 degrees (a hump). Just right is a straight line. Looked at this way the purpose of the equalizer hitch is to prevent pivoting of the ball and hitch socket in the verticle plane
Once you have figured the tension correctly, it doesn't matter if you count the links under tension or the links hanging-it's the same thing from opposite points of view assuming you have the same number of links on each bar. This number, however, should be the same for both sides.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:39 PM   #5
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Profile:  2002 25' Classic
Oro Valley , Arizona
Posts: 799

I understand what you are writing. It seems to me the nose of the Expedition is still a bit high as is the front of the trailer.

This is after the latest change the dealer made: full ball cant and IF I have the bars really tight--that is narrower to the frame--not parallel, it is better than it was before I complained.

Before (done by another dealer) the Expedition really went skyward in front but the trailer was level and the ball was not at maximum cant....think it was on 4 on those concentric (sp) washers.

If I were to work on this myself, I will have to buy bigger wrenches Nothing I have goes large enough for the taps/nuts on the bolts.

I could take it to another shop, I guess...... I would like to know what really is wrong.

If I lower the ball (have bar with lotsa holes/choices) one hole leaving the ball at full cant, will I achieve anything.

To me this is like a rubrics cube. The Expedition must have very weak rear springs....I don't have the air-bag system.

I understand the principle but what do I do first.

Kistler
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Old 06-20-2007, 01:13 PM   #6
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Profile:  1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
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Reese told me 5-8 degrees on the ball.

Never less than 5 links

did U measure your wheel heights before and after loading the TT?

You know if you took a few pic's you would get better suggestion I think.
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Old 06-20-2007, 02:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
I understand what you are writing. It seems to me the nose of the Expedition is still a bit high as is the front of the trailer.

This is after the latest change the dealer made: full ball cant and IF I have the bars really tight--that is narrower to the frame--not parallel, it is better than it was before I complained.

Before (done by another dealer) the Expedition really went skyward in front but the trailer was level and the ball was not at maximum cant....think it was on 4 on those concentric (sp) washers.

If I were to work on this myself, I will have to buy bigger wrenches Nothing I have goes large enough for the taps/nuts on the bolts.

I could take it to another shop, I guess...... I would like to know what really is wrong.

If I lower the ball (have bar with lotsa holes/choices) one hole leaving the ball at full cant, will I achieve anything.

To me this is like a rubrics cube. The Expedition must have very weak rear springs....I don't have the air-bag system.

I understand the principle but what do I do first.

Kistler
If the front of the trailer is high and the front of the tow vehicle is high, then the ball height was set entirely too high.

The ball must be lowered.

Since you have a heavy duty tow vehicle, the next problem is the bar rating. Yours should be "no more" than 550 to 600 pounds.

If you still have a problem, call me.

Again, the published ball height of an Airstream trailer, is the ideal goal, but it is never true, since the ball height that they publish is for an "empty" trailer.

Obviously then, the that is incorrect since you will add maybe 1000 to 2000 pounds of payload.

Additionally, the rubber roads in any torsion axle can settle. That again, lowers the ball height of that particular trailer.

There is but "ONE" way to determine a ball height, and that is to measure "your" trailer, typically loaded for travel.

The year, length mean nothing for a true dimension.

Andy
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