Downsize receiver? Any cons?

[Foiled Again]

My Blue Ox weighs a ton, and fitting it into the 2.5 receiver results in a lot of slop
Not gonna get a heavier 2.5. Any problem switching to a 2 inch on the GMC?

[uraljohn]

I am going to assume you are using the bushing sleeve that makes the 2.5 receiver take a 2.0 shank. It may still have a bunch of slop.

Should be no problem switching to an aftermarket receiver with the same rating as you currently have with a 2.0 receiver opening. Curt and Reese Draw Tite are two names that come to mind. Go to Etrailer.com and look up for your application.

I changed my factory Class IV 2.0 receiver to a Draw Tite "MAX FRAME" 2.0 receiver on my 2013 Ford E150 XLT van. Much heavier construction and way less slop when I slide the shank in. (Equalizer WD hitch). Took me maybe 1 hour to install. Bolted right up to factory holes but with way heavier bolts/nuts. You will need a torque wrench and a good arm. Happy travels.

[wulfraat]

I have no issues with a 2” sleeve in my 2.5” receiver. Works just fine.

[overlander63]

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eID=2013304286

[DKB_SATX]

If you're not already using one like this, I'd start with upgrading to this sort of reducer that has flares at one end to reduce the slop a bit. It's much cheaper and a 10-second install so I'd try it first if there's nothing else wrong with your truck's receiver.

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

If you're not already using one like this, I'd start with upgrading to this sort of reducer that has flares at one end to reduce the slop a bit. It's much cheaper and a 10-second install so I'd try it first if there's nothing else wrong with your truck's receiver.

I DO use a reducer, which quadruples the problems of getting the holes aligned. I say unladylike words every time I have to wiggle the reducer and hitch shaft to remount the hitch.
I am trying to do a number of things to allow me to continue streaming... for some reason my truck seems to be getting higher and harder to get into (electric running boards with a 3 inch longer drop) and when did 30 lb propane tanks get so heavy (aluminum tanks ARE 7 lbs lighter) and the hitch itself - oof! (Gonna have the reducer welded to the A-frame to store it, or get some kind of little red wagon to carry it away from the truck and make it easier to load it into the bed.)

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

I DO use a reducer, which quadruples the problems of getting the holes aligned. I say unladylike words every time I have to wiggle the reducer and hitch shaft to remount the hitch.
I am trying to do a number of things to allow me to continue streaming... for some reason my truck seems to be getting higher and harder to get into (electric running boards with a 3 inch longer drop) and when did 30 lb propane tanks get so heavy (aluminum tanks ARE 7 lbs lighter) and the hitch itself - oof! (Gonna have the reducer welded to the A-frame to store it, or get some kind of little red wagon to carry it away from the truck and make it easier to load it into the bed.)

Sorry, I did assume you're already using a reducer, but they're not all created equal and I failed to include the link I meant to include. Lots of them are just straight square-section tubing, but some are flared on the aft end so they fit up tighter into even a larger-than-needed receiver. If you're only ever using it with the reducer, you can just leave that in (with the pin holding it place of course) and it'll eventually rust itself into a very secure place, as long as it's relatively snug to start with.

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapt...rt/C45405.html

[Foiled Again]

Rust itself into a very secure place....

Brilliant and funny.

[oldenavy]

I've always had similar problems with the factory reducers on the 2.5" hitches (both Ford and Ram). They're sloppy and don't line up well. I bent several pins due to the lack of support between receiver & shank. I also had the problem of not being able to lower the tailgate with the AS hooked up. I finally bought this adapter:

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapt...ophy/HR26.html

(rated for 10,000# trailer with WD) and used a grade 8 bolt to secure it in place permanently. No movement, no slop. It did stick out a bit too far, so I pushed it all the way in, marked it and drilled a new hole for the hitch pin. It gives me ~3" extension which is just what I need to get the tailgate all the way down, no more slop, no more bent hitch pins.

The Equalizer hitch head is still heavy, and I agree that modern trucks are way too tall for the average height person.