Do You think I need a WD hitch?

[FL Dawg]

I just purchased my 1st AS. It is the 2016 International Signature 27FB with 7700 GVWR and 770 Tongue weight. I also just purchased a 2015 Ford F250 4x4 Platinum with the 6.7L V-8 Diesel. Truck comes with the trailer tow pkg, trailer sway control, trailer brake controller and pretty much all the options Ford offered on the 2015's. I just retired and wife and I plan to tour the USA extensively. Dealer does not think I will need the WDH. What say you?

[n2916s]

Well, once you put all your stuff in it the tongue weight will be closer to 900 pounds. So, yes, I think you need a WDH with sway control.

[Bill M.]

Simple answer is yes, I think you need a wd hitch.

I can see no real advantage of not using one.

[Caffeinated]

Yes is the correct answer.

Also, I would not rely on AS published specs for tongue weight. Bet you a micro brew that once you are loaded for camping, your tongue weight is closer to 1000 lbs.

Mike

[MountaineerStreamer]

With out a doubt, YES! Methink the issue is as much or more about sway control (Ford's technology not withstanding) as WD, but however you look at it, much more than just "on the ball" is needed for your well-being.

Bill

[xrvr]

You could try it on the ball with just sway control first and then decide.

[moosetags]

My answer would also be yes. A sway control/weight distribution hitch is something that you are really going to want for confident and safe towing.

We are very experienced Airstreamers with 1,800 nights and 160,000 miles in the last eleven years. We tow with a Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Duramax, and would not tow without our sway control/weight distribution hitch system.

We tow a 25FB that weighs 7,400# ready to camp with a 900# tongue weight. We have found that published weights on anything related to an RV are often grossly understated.

Also keep in mind that most salesmen at RV dealerships are not experienced RVers. Some of these salesmen were selling washing machines three weeks ago, and all they know about towing a travel trailer is what they have been told.

We are also in Santa Rosa Beach, down the street from Goatfeather's. If you would care to discuss this matter further, PM me for contact information

Brian

[Mergatroyd]

Originally Posted by Caffeinated

Yes is the correct answer.

Also, I would not rely on AS published specs for tongue weight. Bet you a micro brew that once you are loaded for camping, your tongue weight is closer to 1000 lbs.

Mike

Yes. I call it tongue weight creep. You have to figure on adding some tongue weight after loading. I think the front bedroom Airstreams tend to have more of problem because you can easily store a lot of weight under the bed. You can reduce the tongue weight by re-distributing your load but you really have to think about where all your stuff is in relation to the axle.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by FL Dawg

I just purchased my 1st AS. It is the 2016 International Signature 27FB with 7700 GVWR and 770 Tongue weight. I also just purchased a 2015 Ford F250 4x4 Platinum with the 6.7L V-8 Diesel. Truck comes with the trailer tow pkg, trailer sway control, trailer brake controller and pretty much all the options Ford offered on the 2015's. I just retired and wife and I plan to tour the USA extensively. Dealer does not think I will need the WDH. What say you?

I have a 27FB Cloud and Chevy 3/4T diesel (heavy front end truck). Tongue is closer to 1000# in real life (though probably 100 or so of that is from my heavy hitch) and it lifts about 500# off the front axle when attached.

Your mileage may vary but for me, not replacing that weight makes for a bad situation. I'd say you need it. Good luck!

[craftsman]

There is only one answer to this question, no equivocation. YES

[m.hony]

Weight distribution and sway control will never hurt you, but will always help you.

[cwf]

There are many many MANY threads here and on the Internet with good and perhaps questionable advice.

For us, a properly setup WD hitch will be best for handling and overall comfort. It places the 'load' on the TV (tow vehicle) fairly centered on the TV wheelbase... keep the front tires properly loaded on the ground (somewhat useful in directional control)

You have PLENTY of truck for the rig... sure, you "can" run it as is... many have and do... sucessfully... but, it is your call. There are some who tow 34' like ours with F150's or 1500's.. but not me.

There are many threads/flames here about 'hitch choice'... WD, non WD, WD with sway control or sway elimination...

As mentioned, there are options...and preferences. Skill and experience level is VERY much a factor... I towed a LOT of stock , work and boat trailers.. never with WD or sway control/elimintion... and have had some spooky rides. Yes, the AS handles better than most... but, when properly set up, it is almost a dream to tow... if not... well.. it can be spooky...

[Tom_T]

FLDawg,

As others have said, it's probably advisable, but perhaps not required as the dealer is saying - then again, he/she's not pulling it himself or herself.

The numbers test will be to weigh your actual HW using a Sherline scale with the AS "wet & loaded" all tanks full (or calculate their capacities & add at full wt. & placement), along with everything that you - & especially what your wife will stuff in there for trips, get the HW & add what other stuff YOU will want to throw into the truck's bed - add it all up, then see how much it adds to the rear axle's unhitched wt. & compare that to the rear axle's max. gross rating & to the front axle's wts. - if it exceeds the RAGW, then you must use WD to distribute some HW to the front axle. If not, then maybe still ....

However, you should also try an as wet & loaded hitch on a bare ball, by on a flat surface, measure the truck's unhitched & unloaded ht. of the F & R wheelwells - then hook up the wet & loaded trailer & throw all your junk .... errrr .... stuff into the truck bed - & remeasure the heights. If you get more than +/-1" rise in front, then you would be well advised to use WD to bring it back down to level, thereby distributing weight back to the front axle where your need it for steering, as well as for 75% of the truck's braking power - not to mention restoring what little aerodynamics those behemoths have to reduce drag related mpg loss, as someone noted above.

We've towed our vintage 1960 Avion T20 with rented F250's in both gas & diesel V8 flavors (5x per year, so trucks varied), & the truck didn't know it was there - but then our Avion is half the weight & TW of your AS - even with my Hensley Cub's 160 lbs. added to the HW for a total 542 lbs. HW on my Sherline HW scale - & the F250 was only about 1" up in front when hitched & our 2 cruiser bikes in the bed, before cranking in the WD springs. So your AS may push it enough that you'd be well advised to

I also did tow the Avion from Albuquerque to SoCal the first time when we bought it in 2012 with a then new F150 4x4 without WD/AS & it did okay, but when we were renting smaller Nissan Pathfinder mid-size SUVs, we definitiely noticed the WD & sway, so I added the WD/AS Hensley Cub because we need the smaller size & plan to get a similar size Cayenne S used for a permanent TV.

So even for our smaller lighter trailer, the WD/AS is an added help on even the F250's which we've been renting since 2014, & the Hensley/ProPride hitches stop the sway before it can happen due to their design, vs. the truck's & other TV's "built-in anti-sway" reacting after the sway starts with opposite side braking on the truck.

You can also just decide to get a WD hitch with anti-sway yourself, & while I like the Hensley since it does it's job so well & everything stays on the trailer (no need to remove the greasy heavy hitch head & springs when parked) & their spring adjustment jacks are easier to use for me being an old fart now - you certainly can go with less expensive & more common Equalizer, Blue Ox, Curt, Reese etc. WD hitches as well.

Have Fun & Be Safe with your new toys!
Tom
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[aa6rv]

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx

[pteck]

It's all about the degree of stability and margin of safety.

Under certain conditions, any articulated vehicle can become unstable. Some more than others. Speed, downgrade, sudden maneuvers, and external factors such as wind and passing rigs can precipitate these situations. Some of those conditions may be outside of your direct control for those that want to convince themselves that they are safe drivers.

WD and sway control buys more stability and resistance to sway. Therefore it's always advantageous to use one, irrespective of tow vehicle.

It's your judgement call whether you want more safety. It should be an easy decision IMO.

[69SoulShine]

Careful with which hitch you get , blue ox and several others say you have to turn off your anti-sway from your Ford F-250 every time you start the truck.
Not so with Pro Pride.

[jtwind]

Yes, unless you are one of those folks that believe nothing adverse will ever come up. Otherwise ignore these folks that say they have been towing all their lives with no issues and so you don't need to take precautions that might help in a emergency situation. Their argument is illogical and nonsense. As stated many times here, you don't need it till you do and then if don't have it your screwed!

[VT Wanderer]

I was just checking some items in my owner's manual for my 2015 F250 with 6.7 diesel, and happen to see a statement - Ford says... if you are towing a trailer over 5000 pounds a WDH should be used.

[xrvr]

[QUOTE=m.hony;1933168]Weight distribution and sway control will never hurt you, but will always help you. If set up properly, if not it can be a hazard.

[m.hony]

Yes, if set up properly. Not enough tilt on the hitch head or chains not tight enough and you are doing nothing. Too much tilt on the hitch head or chains too tight lifting the rear of the truck and front of the trailer too high can make a squirrely situation.
You never want the trailer nose high.