View Poll Results: Do you reload steer axle to unhitched weight?
Yes, within 20lbs. 0 0%
No. I load >20lbs OVER baseline weight. 1 14.29%
No. I am >20lbs UNDER baseline weight. 3 42.86%
I don't know. 3 42.86%
Voters: 7. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 04-29-2014, 02:24 PM   #1
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Do you get steer axle reload?

With my current rig ('05 Suburban 2500, '08 Classic 30 S/O), using an Equal-I-Zer 1200, I wasn't able to get back to unhitched weight on the steer axle (don't have the certs handy, but IIRC it was something like 200-300lbs under)

I switched to a Hensley Arrow 1400, and under the maximum setting, I could get back to baseline (with the trailer loaded smartly).

With about 6 years on the HAHA, I've now noticed the max setting only gets me to about 200lbs under baseline steer axle weight.
Which leads me to my poll question...
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:44 PM   #2
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Some of that wisdom has changed over the years. This is from a 2013 Suburban owner manual


"Weight-Distributing Hitch and Adjustment

A weight distributing hitch may be useful with some trailers. Use the following guidelines to determine if a weight distributing hitch should be used.

Vehicle Series Trailer Weight Weight Distributing Hitch Usage Hitch Distribution
1500 Up to 7000 lbs Optional Refer to trailer manufacturer’s recommendation
1500 7001 to 9900 lbs Required 50%
1500 Over 9900 lbs Required 100%
2500/3500 Up to 18000 lbs Optional Refer to trailer manufacturer’s recommendation

Body to Ground Distance
Front of Vehicle
When using a weight-distributing hitch, measure distance (A) before coupling the trailer to the hitch ball. If the hitch requires 50% distribution, measure the height again after the trailer is coupled and adjust the spring bars so the distance (A) is as close as possible to halfway between the two measurements. When 100% distribution is required the spring bars should be adjusted so the distance (A) is the same as the initial measurement after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle and adjusting the hitch."

So, you see that it isn't necessary for 100% to be restored for most all AS applications.

In addition, since a HAHA and a PP do not rely on spring bar tension for sway control, restoration of weight is only necessary to regain steering feel and balance to the truck's geometry.

(sorry the formatting gets squirrelly when I try to make columns)
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:23 PM   #3
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OOPS, left this off the first post....for clarification.


"Body to Ground Distance
Front of Vehicle
When using a weight-distributing hitch, measure distance (A) before coupling the trailer to the hitch ball. If the hitch requires 50% distribution, measure the height again after the trailer is coupled and adjust the spring bars so the distance (A) is as close as possible to halfway between the two measurements. When 100% distribution is required the spring bars should be adjusted so the distance (A) is the same as the initial measurement after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle and adjusting the hitch."
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:43 PM   #4
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boondookdad

Sounds like some of the bushings in the HaHa have worn or the bars have relaxed.
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:03 PM   #5
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Yes, worn bushings and elongated bottom jack pin holes can reduce transfer more than you think, if you're using your "mark" for adjustment.
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:09 PM   #6
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I voted "I don't know" because I always measure, and try to adjust for the same front fender height, however I think your choices of 20 pounds over or under is too close a weight to be practical. Just my opinion.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
I voted "I don't know" because I always measure, and try to adjust for the same front fender height, however I think your choices of 20 pounds over or under is too close a weight to be practical. Just my opinion.
I only picked 20lbs because the CAT scales guarantee their accuracy within that
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
boondookdad

Sounds like some of the bushings in the HaHa have worn or the bars have relaxed.
Yes. I imagine the torsion bars will fatigue over time. Another 'lifetime warranty' item.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Yes, worn bushings and elongated bottom jack pin holes can reduce transfer more than you think, if you're using your "mark" for adjustment.
I agree. I'm guessing it's a combination of elongated holes, fatigued bars, and elongated torsion bar receiver. I noted a slight elongation in the holes and bushings when I serviced it last year.

When I brought this up with Dennis(?) in Romeo, he assured me it was not an issue. At this point, I'm thinking otherwise.

200lbs makes a difference in steer axle loading- at least in my experience. There is a noticeable 'wander' and 'float' at highway speed.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:15 PM   #10
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200-lbs makes a difference in steer axle loading- at least in my experience. There is a noticeable 'wander' and 'float' at highway speed.

An annual check of the rig at the scales should be a minimum. The hitch may have wearing parts, but the TV is more important, IMO.

Tired shocks and worn anti-roll bar bushings/links on the truck front end are possible. Parts, there, may be individually in spec, but, together, create some free play that WD loading exacerbates. A recirc ball steering gear may have some slop that can be adjusted, and, don't forget steering column shaft linkage. Re-reading Richard Klein, SAE, reminded me how important it is to search out mechanical defects. . .and that Steer Axle tire pressure should be within range (2008* spec) and slightly lower, at least, than Drive Axle. Start with wheel-by-wheel loadings, on tv, with and without WD applied.

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