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Old 01-12-2016, 08:09 PM   #491
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Neither is the be all/end all, imo. Towing is about the best compromise for any condition possible. And choosing for the most likely.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:18 PM   #492
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We've drifted from the original topic a little, but the opinions offered up in the debate are always interesting.

Andrew T set up my hitch and I have two friction sway control bars to aid my towing experience. They have provided some very cheap assistance to the overall setup and I treat them a little like seat belts; hopefully not needed but great if you do need to call on them. My experience has been only positive and I've never suffered any sway or "tail wagging the dog" situations. Of course, sway control is only part of the equation, I know that, but I'm never going to tow without sway control, regardless of what ever hitch, TV or trailer I happen to be using.

Stability of the whole TV, trailer and their connection is very important and controlled tests through slaloms and the like are very important in understanding the dynamics of towing. Race car teams and car manufacturers do endless testing to study and improve stability (for greater speed and well as safety for race cars, obviously), so I don't see that similar programs for towing should be seen as anything other than a good thing.
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Old 01-13-2016, 05:16 AM   #493
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Independent suspension can be designed to carry any weight but cost is certainly a factor. Diesel pusher chassis have 10,000 pound independent front suspension. $10,000 option though.

Remco once built a diesel pusher chassis with 6 wheel independent suspension that was a thing of beauty. However 90% of people buying a MH never test drive it so the extra cost was not appreciated.




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Old 01-16-2016, 08:28 PM   #494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rostam View Post
I would love to see a video of a minivan towing an 8000# trailer up/down a grade. I believe that is a much more realistic test of a vehicle's towing capabilities.

While this is off topic, I completely agree with this test. I live in So Cal and in the summers with over 100f temperatures climbing over the Grape Vine or the Cajon pass or Sherwin summit out of Bishop ca. All these passes 7% grades or more would be great to test power and cooling systems in any vehicle, as well as engine braking on the way down.
These are the routes we use every year to get to our vacation destination s in Aug. Typical for us and very relevant. I'd love to use our new 2016 Cadillac SRX, I don't think it can handle our 20 footer. I'll stick with our very comfortable and very capable Tahoe.
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Old 01-16-2016, 08:56 PM   #495
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The Cajon pass with and without sway control was what sold me on a ProPride system. Lack of power just means get to the right lane and be patient going up, and downshift and stay right to go down. Lack of sway on the way down makes it calmer in the left seat....

Now I store the AS at the top of the Cajon pass to make it easier😄


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Old 01-16-2016, 09:33 PM   #496
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Limiting where I camp by storing our AS somewhere is personally not for us. We use it at the beach, deserts and western Sierras. Also, operating temperatures and not so much speed going up or down passes was my point in my above comments.
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:56 PM   #497
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We have a home in the area, and free storage at the neighbor's home next door. It takes little time to retrieve the AS, and you can't beat the price😄😄😄😄😄😄

Best neighbors ever!


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Old 01-26-2016, 11:33 PM   #498
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Quite a thread, this. Surprised that no one commented on the feeling one gets when a semi passes you at 80 when you're doing 60 in the right lane. Using a PP hitch, as I do, the whole combination moves slightly towards the semi as it passes, in fact before the front of the tractor is even with the front of your TV. There's no sense of a change of direction, just a slight inward movement. Obviously, this is an aerodynamic effect caused by the "bow wave" of the semi interacting with the wake of the TV/trailer combination. Imagine the effect if the trailer were not rigidly locked in line with the TV (with a Hensley or PP, this is accomplished by the hitch geometry; with other types of "sway control" hitches, it is accomplished by friction): as the semi approaches from the rear, its bow wave first works on the trailer, pulling the trailer's "loose" end (the rear) towards the approaching semi. The trailer being out of line with the tow vehicle, it puts a rotational torque torque on the rear of the TV, making the TV want to turn towards the semi. The TV driver, sensing this, steers in the opposite direction. This loads up the suspension, initially on one side of the combination then on the other as the TV driver countersteers to correct this self-steering by the TV. This sets up a side to side oscillation as the suspension loads and unloads, which can be amplified if the driver over-corrects. Ultimately, this can lead to loss of directional control and either running off the roadway or a rollover. A couple of conclusions from this example: because the aerodynamic effect increases with speed as both the semi and the TV-trailer combination produce an increasingly bigger wake, any system that attempts to deal with the problem after it starts, whether a "skilled driver" or an electronic stability control system will succeed only if it applies the necessary directional correction either without inducing oscillation or is able to countersteer to kill the oscillation--a difficult job. So, the likely most effective preventive system (other than by going so slow that these aerodynamic effects are negligibly weak) is one that keeps the trailer and TV in line as each component of the combination is successively affected by the bow wave of the passing semi. This, it seems to me, is why even the best driver should want some sort of sway dampening or elimination built into the hitch. Of course a truly incompetent driver can create oscillation all by himself by making constant steering corrections rounding a constant radius curve, or even going straight ahead. This person will also need sway control. But my point is that even the best driver has no way to avoid the aerodynamic effect of a large vehicle passing him at speed, which tends to destabilize a trailer-tow vehicle combination where the attachment between the two vehicles is behind the rear axle and can thereby put a rotational torque on the TV, steering it into trouble.
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Old 01-27-2016, 12:21 AM   #499
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Do I NEED sway control??

The high speed tractor trailer pass is but one of the reasons I bought my ProPride setup. Had one blow past me on the downhill from the Cajon Pass on I-15. Darn near lost it at that point. Had to jump on trailer manual brake lever to settle trailer and truck down in right lane. Never again.

Like the clarity of your explanation of what occurs when the semi's bow wave hits. Oscillation is putting it mildly....😳


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Old 02-01-2016, 04:17 PM   #500
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I've never had a problem with trucks passing me at high speed, only a slight sensation as they zoom on by.

After reading some of these posts, an inexperienced person might be terrified at not buying a $2500 hitch before getting on the road. As it is, I know better after trailering for 30 years.

A $100 set of classic friction sway-control bars have proven to be plenty strong for me through the years, just as they were in my father's time.

I think the superhitches of today have a place for someone pulling a trailer with a tow vehicle that is otherwise too small for the load. I choose to not place myself in that situation.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:50 AM   #501
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Do I NEED sway control??

The rear of your trailer will be pulled towards an 18-wheeler passing too closely. Whether or not it is "felt" at the wheel is another matter. Anti sway is cheap enough insurance.

And I can run rings around your rig with my far longer and heavier one with its VPP hitch. With a less sophisticated trailer suspension.

The Hensley designed hitches are dirt cheap for what they offer.

As they are one third the price of new when sold used, you are cheating yourself.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:59 AM   #502
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Quote:
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The Hensley designed hitches are dirt cheap for what they offer.

As they are one third the price of new when sold used, you are cheating yourself.
Granted we have insurance, but really with as much money as most of us spent on our Airstream trailers, why wouldn't you spend a few dollars more (and really in relation to the camper, it is a few dollars) and get one of the new designs. They don't have to cost you an arm and a leg, but will provide you with an extra level of comfort... at least it does in my case.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:28 PM   #503
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If I had been fully aware and educated on ProPride at the time I purchased my Airstream I would have tried to get a ProPride.
As it is, my Equal-i-zer is effective as was the EazLift before it.
If I ever have $2,300...
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:39 PM   #504
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A bit off topic, but it's in-line (NPI) with where this topic has gone...

Even with properly equipped and rated HD trucks, you'll still experience significantly higher service and maintenance costs...
What do these folks do with their little passenger cars after pulling a +8,000lb trailer around?
Are they replacing engine, trans, brakes, tires, etc.. every month? Or do they pawn them off on unsuspecting buyers like Katrina trailers?
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