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Old 03-26-2011, 07:06 AM   #1
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2010 30' Classic
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Curious about my weights and their distribution

I'm still trying to get my WD settled with the proper configuration. My tow vehicle is a 2004 Dodge 2500 Cummins 4WD, quad cab, short bed and I am using the Reese Dual Cam WD hitch with 800# bars. According to the omnipotent CAT scale ticket, the truck's empty (with full tank of fuel and hitch/ball) axle weights are:

Steer: 4,400 = 58.5%
Drive: 3,120 = 41.5%
Gross: 7,520

My Classic 30 (empty) weighs in on the CAT at 7,340 which is VERY close to the factory specs.

As hitched by the dealer at the fourth chain link (three hanging), my CAT weights were (with percentages rounded to nearest tenth of total weight):

Steer: 4,300 = 28.7%
Drive: 4,020 = 26.8%
Trailer: 6,660 = 44.5%
Gross: 14,980

In an attempt to transfer more of the trailer's weight to the truck to reach the magical 33%-33%-34% distribution, I cranked the hitch up another link (fifth link, four hanging) and reweighed a few days later:

Steer: 4,460 = 30.0%
Drive: 3,700 = 24.9%
Trailer: 6,720 = 45.2%
Gross: 14,880

I stopped here because I wasn't sure if I was actually going backward and I'd like to get thoughts from the collective here. As of yet, I have not done any wheel well measuring. At both settings, the truck seems to sit reasonably level, but the rig is more bouncy when set on the FIFTH link than the FOURTH.

Would love to hear some thoughts on these weights and what the way ahead/next step might be, as I am kind of perplexed. Thanks in advance!

Kyle
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:08 AM   #2
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You don't want to get all axles equal, you just want the truck axles to be equal, and the steer axle back to it's original weight.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:21 AM   #3
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The goal is to distribute the trailer tongue weight evenly on the front and rear axles of the truck. That will provide solid control when under tow as well as the best ride quality.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:22 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Aviator View Post
The goal is to distribute the trailer tongue weight evenly on the front and rear axles of the truck. That will provide solid control when under tow as well as the best ride quality.
But that goal is not obtainable with a WD hitch.
Or any hitch where the hitch ball is located behind the rear wheels.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:04 PM   #5
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I set up my Reese straight line hitch from the instructions. I measured the fender height of the front and the rear of the truck without the trailer, then dropped the hitch on without moving the truck, and adjusted the bars "so the truck is down the same amount at the front as the rear". Actually I violated that one a little. My truck only went down less than 1 inch when I added the trailer. Hard to do the measurments. Experience shows me that the truck likes a little bit more weight to the back. So I fudged a little.

How many links is also dependent upon how the ball is tilted. I think the ball should be tilted witht he top to the rear instead of straight up.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:12 PM   #6
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Thanks for the comments so far, gentlemen. I do now see my misunderstanding...

Based on my numbers posted above (and my ball is tilted rearward), I think I need to crank another link to get my steer axle up to around 4,650#, which will equal the addition of about 1/3 of the tongue weight.
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