crossing the mountains out west

[weber.roger]

2014 chevy 1500 silverado Z71 6 cyl 285 hp
19 ft flying cloud
weight distributing hitch
I recently contacted a well known dealer expressing my concern about having enough truck to cross the big mountains out west. He replied I am good to go but won't win any speed races. Also, that I should have a single friction sway control. I have know idea what this is. I have towed 5000 miles already but mostly in south and everything seems balanced and fine

Any opinions?

[Mrjkq]

I did a coast to coast last year and yes over the Rocky Mountains. I towed my 25' AS with a 2015 Ram ecodiesel, it got the job done but not a mountain truck, not even close. You're in the same situation. Descending the steep grades was a white knuckle experience, going up them grades I had to follow the 18 wheelers @ 25 mph in the right truck lane. Your truck & trailer are different than mine, but that what I learned! Now pulling with a Nissan Titan XD/Cummins V8 diesel.

[Mollysdad]

Where are you crossing?
I've done I-70 out of Denver many times, and it's a good road, just 7% grade forever, then you cross the pass and enter the Eisenhower tunnel (made famous in Steven King's "The Stand") and you start down forever. Down is maybe more intense than up, but I never let it get above 55-60 and didn't ride the brakes.
Take your time. It's worth it. You'll be fine.

[Hittenstiehl]

We have a 15 yr old Chev Avalanche 1500 and tow a 19, 24 or 28 Vintage so they are lighter. But no problems.

We tow in tow/haul mode, have weight distribution bars and a anti sway.

Good advice given to me here was "crest the uphill rise at the speed you want to go down". Low gear, and tow haul keep the down hills manageable with a few slow steady brake pushes if speed creeps up faster than your comfort level. Our truck likes to coast or down hill fast so we keep that in check as described.

We can usually maintain up hills at 55 and pass the tractor trailers with ease. On the down hills we have no problem letting the tractor trailer pass us as they have more gears and try to build up speed for the next climb.

If you are on freeways you will likely have no problems as you can imagine all the various vehicles that climb all these mountains with ease.

If you find yourself on a state route and not confident about a grade you may encounter ask here as some forum member like lives close by or can recommend if it's a go or no go.

Our next truck with likely be a 2500 just to make it easier but for now we're sticking with what we have.

[jimmini]

Interstate highway are easy since they have 6 % limits on grades. Off interstate can make your TV work.We have a Ford Excursion with V-10 so we have no problem going up hill with our 29 ft Squarestream.Like the road AZ 87 and 260 from Mesa AZ to the Rim above Payson AZ.It has LOTS of 7 and 8 % of up hill then down hill and up and down with curves that you have to slow down to 35 to 45 MPH.Down hill we take it out of overdrive and some times down shift to second gear to save TV brakes also I use trailer brakes only some times to slow down this helps keep the trailer in line behind me thus no sway.We do use a friction sway bar.
We have spent our hole life driving the mountains of the west so we are use to them and have a different view than you might have, but we have had are moments. The road I talk about above is 4 lane BUT they did not get the road and bridges on the same road grade and bridges are not square with road so if you take them to fast it is a real dump in the road and you will find the trailer air born and trying to pass you.The State is working to fix that problem now.
Drive safe and have fun.

[Cyclist]

"If you find yourself on a state route and not confident about a grade you may encounter ask here as some forum member like lives close by or can recommend if it's a go or no go."

We found these books useful (there is a Mountain Directory East as well).

http://www.mountaindirectory.com/pro...irectory-west/

[jimmini]

I do not know where your going BUT we recommend that you DO NOT use US 60 between Show Low and Globe AZ as you have to go thru the Salt River Canyon that is nice to see but not to pull a trailer through if your not use to driving in the mountains.

[Dan and Liz]

The dealer's advice was right on -- you'll be slow on the climbs, but faster than most semis. Use your gears on the downhills, brake before curves to keep your speed down. There are many kinds of sway control, but the friction is probably the cheapest if sway control isn't part of your hitch setup. In any case, I wouldn't drive out here without some form of sway control -- seen too many RVs and semis in the ditch, especially in Wyoming. Other than that, I wouldn't hesitate to go with the rig you describe. Just don't be in a hurry or let the crazies intimidate you (we have plenty, especially in summer).

[PKI]

A 285hp rig should tow a 19 if you do not pack a significant payload of gear.

Mountain climbing is easier if you pack light and dump the tanks, except for enough fresh water to use toilet. Carry a bit of bottled drinking water and load it in the center of the coach along with the rest of your heavy gear. Move anything heavy that you carry in the truck to a position in front of the rear axle.

The Mountain Guide is worth having as a planning tool. Interstates are not much of a problem, but two lanes can be. If you know before you go, you can deal with it.

We pull a heavier coach with 300hp. But it is a turbo. As you climb the altitude ladder your power will reduce. You will just have to deal with that, but a slower climb is not a deal breaker. We have a lot of miles in the West that are relatively flat where steady progress makes up for a slow mountain transition. As you gain experience, some adjustments may help. Smaller diameter tires can help improve the gearing a bit. Take care in making that decision, but consider it.

The opposite of going up is going down. Brakes are not a bad thing. They are less expensive than engines and transmissions. Upgrade disk brake pads are available and can help improve braking over stock. Traveling slower is easier to control with a down shift and braking. If you are having a tough time, pull over and cool off. We do not find the need and if your rig has good engine, differential and transmission cooling, you may not either.

Hitch ...... the low cost alternative is a brake pad friction sway control. I personally do not like friction sway control because it only resists sway, but it does work. You do have to reduce/remove the friction bar to back up and must reset it to return to tow mode. An Easilift hitch and brake pad sway bar ($200-300 +50) is not expensive and helps balance your rig. I like the Blue Ox ($500-700) because it is not a friction system and the springs are constantly providing force to return the coach to a stable state. The next step up is a force projection hitch ($1500-1800). The link bars in the Hensley and Propride designs do not allow the trailer to sway. These are very good hitches, considered by many to be overkill for your rig, but they perform as advertised. Speed, wind, bad road surface, emergency transitions and equipment failure all work against you to produce sway. Your hitch will help you combat all of those factors. Note, you do not have sway until you have it and then it's too late to get a hitch.

Do your research in the tow vehicle and hitch threads. Understand the compromises and make your own decision as to what you need to safely support your towing lifestyle.

One last caution. Long open lengths of empty Western highway dulls the senses. Do not allow that to happen. Towing is an active attentive driving activity. If not, it is dangerous. Stop and rest when you need a break. It's supposed to be fun, but stay on the job.

Hope to see you down the road. Pat

[xrvr]

Look up eaz lift hitch and check out their sway control device. Can be purchased separately rv shops, etc. these sway controls were used for years and still are. I use two, left and right.

[dkottum]

Your transmission, truck and trailer brakes, and higher engine rpm's are your friend in the mountains. Use low gears and higher rpm's to climb and descend (you need high engine rpm to build up enough compression for engine braking), and the brakes as much as needed. The steeper the grade, the lower the speed up and down. Stay in control of speed.

The Mountain Guide is a useful publication to know the steep grades for your route planning, it describes the percent and length of grades and warns of those to avoid.

Yes, get sway control devices installed and the weight distribution hitch set up properly. Another good way to avoid a sway condition is keeping speed down to 60 mph or less. Load lightly, heavy stuff near the middle of truck and trailer, and lighter gear near the ends.

Take your time, learn what your truck and trailer can do and stay in control.

FWIW, we have towed all through the Southwest mountains with our EcoDiesel and it does a terrific job climbing and descending grades, a very good truck in the mountains with our 25' Airstream.

[Andrew T]

Are you sure you have a 6
Cylinder? I thought the Z71 package mandated the V8.

We drove through the Salt River Canyon last year. I found it a pretty easy climb and decent. Only 8% grade in the steepest parts.

[RandyNH]

Originally Posted by jimmini

Interstate highway are easy since they have 6 % limits on grades.

I70 in Colorado has 7% grades, just curious as to where your limit information came from?

[PKI]

Originally Posted by RandyNH

I70 in Colorado has 7% grades, just curious as to where your limit information came from?

Per Wiki: Interstate standards

Maximum grade: Maximum grade is determined by a design table based on terrain and design speeds,[1] with up to 6% generally allowed in mountainous areas and hilly urban areas with exceptions for up to 7% grades on mountainous roads with speed limits below 60*mph (95*km/h).

The Mountain Directory lists lots of grades above 6% in the East. You don't suppose the Interstate expansion of our road systems brought a set of more reasonable standards to the game.

Travel safe. Pat

[RandyNH]

Originally Posted by PKI

Per Wiki: Interstate standards

Maximum grade: Maximum grade is determined by a design table based on terrain and design speeds,[1] with up to 6% generally allowed in mountainous areas and hilly urban areas with exceptions for up to 7% grades on mountainous roads with speed limits below 60*mph (95*km/h).

The Mountain Directory lists lots of grades above 6% in the East. You don't suppose the Interstate expansion of our road systems brought a set of more reasonable standards to the game.

Travel safe. Pat

Thanks. I liked the reference and wanted the background for it so I could use it without just quoting some guy on a forum. Exactly, I was wondering how new of a standard it might be

[Mollysdad]

Been there many times.

From the Colorado section of the Mountain Directory West:

VAIL PASS elev. 10603' (on I-70 east of Vail, CO)

The descent on the westbound side of Vail Pass is about 10 miles in length and begins at milepost 189 on I-70. One half mile west of the summit there are warning signs for westbound traffic--"Speed limit 45 mph for vehicles over 30,000 lbs." and "Steep grade next 8 miles--trucks stay in lower gear." The next mile is rolling hills. Then there is a sign--"7% grade next 7 miles."

The descent is steady at 7% and there are 3 advisory signs for the first runaway truck ramp which is about milepost 185 or 4 miles down from the summit. The escape ramp is upsloping on the right. The second runaway truck ramp is about milepost 182, which is 3¼ miles after the first escape ramp, or about 7¼ miles down from the summit. There are several advisory signs before reaching it and it is an upsloping ramp on the right. Don't be fooled when the grade eases after the second escape ramp. It soon goes back to 7% and doesn't bottom out until 2½ miles after the second escape ramp or about milepost 179.

[USAtraveler]

All kinds of good advice here, Roger, some of it overkill IMO with regard to hitches for your trailer and TV combo. Regardless of whether you have a V6 or V8, 285 hp is plenty, like your dealer sez, to take on any interstate or major state highway in the western mountains. I'm in the mountains literally every trip I take and have no trouble maintaining 55 mph uphill with 235 hp V6. In most cases I can accelerate uphill if I want, like to pass a slower 18-wheeler. You'll do fine. Just take your time and don't get over-stressed about it.

[mrdfred]

Lots of replies, lots of good advice, some maybe questionable. I have been pulling a trailer for over 30 years. Here is some simple suggestions; for the truck (TV), find out how to use the gears, and use them both going up and down hills, use brakes only when gearing down isn't sufficient. As far as sway is concerned, get a hitch that has proven anti-sway performance, I have used a Hensley (outstanding), and an Anderson (also very good). There are others as well. I have pulled over the Rockies, the Sierras, the Cascades and the white Mountains in AZ. I always use the TV gears and have never had any problem and seldom need to use the brakes. Having the right hitch is key in controlling your rig.

[Mollysdad]

In the rockies there's almost always a "passing lane" added to the uphill side of a two lane road. I always moved over and let everyone by. I was never ashamed to go slow.

[SusanFleck]

Let me say that we took US 14 and 14a over the Big Horn mountains in Wyoming. From east to west we were fine. From west to east going over 14 A was difficult. We have a 2016 Sierra three-quarter ton truck and pull a 2016 Classic. We are used to driving in the mountains but neither of us would want to try to attempt this particular route (14a) with a half-ton truck. But of course there are other routes that you can use almost anywhere you go. Just know what you are getting into and take it slow. Stop often and never worry about the person behind you.