When hooking up our trailer we noticed cracks in our hitch where the trailer chains hook onto our '04 Silverado. Upon further inspection by a qualified truck repair shop, cracks were found also in the main part of the hitch (under the truck)! Our truck was not on the 'recall' list for hitch problems, so it is unknown what caused the cracks--wear/tear or manufacturer. We have been home only 2 weeks after being on a 9000 mile trip towing our 30' AS. So...feel very fortunate that we made it home with the cracked hitch!
Victoria
When hooking up our trailer we noticed cracks in our hitch where the trailer chains hook onto our '04 Silverado. Upon further inspection by a qualified truck repair shop, cracks were found also in the main part of the hitch (under the truck)! Our truck was not on the 'recall' list for hitch problems, so it is unknown what caused the cracks--wear/tear or manufacturer. We have been home only 2 weeks after being on a 9000 mile trip towing our 30' AS. So...feel very fortunate that we made it home with the cracked hitch!
Victoria
Cracks can happen because of bad welds, or motion.
Fatigue cracks is a subject of another thread, where the popular opinion, seems to be that defective manufacturing is the cause, not excessive bending.
What rating hitch bars do you have, and what is the rating of the truck?
We have had the GM OEM receivers fail on both our 2004 and 2005 Suburban 2500's. We pull a 2005 25FB weighing in at 7400#. In both instances the welds began to crack where the receiver box connects to the support tube. I have decided that these round tube GM receivers are not up to heavy towing with weight distribution equipment.
My GM dealer offered to replace the defective receivers. I declined, as he wanted to replace them with the same junk that came on the Suburbans when new. I rplaced them with quality aftermarket square bar Class IV receivers. I have had not further problems.
Here is a photo of the cracked weld on one of my GM OEM receivers.
Brian
__________________ SuEllyn & Brian McCabe WBCCI #3628 --- AIR #14872 2005 25' Safari FB (Lucy) with HAHA 2005 Suburban 2500 Quadrasteer (Olivia) & 2004 Suburban 2500 Quadrasteer (Daisy)
Unfortunatly this is not uncommon on GM factory hitches . So far mine has held up but I watch it carefully. There are many reports on other forum about this.
...cracks were found also in the main part of the hitch (under the truck)! Our truck was not on the 'recall' list for hitch problems, so it is unknown what caused the cracks--wear/tear or manufacturer...
first victoria, it's good to know nothing FELL OFF during the trip.
as moose and ticki2' suggest the receiver isssue is COMMON and not confined to the narrow 'recall' only vehicles...
In 2008 they upgraded to a class IV hitch - 2.5 inch receiver hole. They have an insert so I could continue to use my 2 inch Reese.
However, there was initially a little bit of slop that seems to be increasing. If I were to keep my current setup, I think I need some kind of shim between both the receiver and the insert, and the insert and the hitch's shaft.
Don't know which way to go, get a 2.5 inch Reese or have a new custom insert made, or just replace the OEM hitch.
Sigh. Paula
__________________
Today is a gift. That's why they call it "the present"
In 2008 they upgraded to a class IV hitch - 2.5 inch receiver hole. They have an insert so I could continue to use my 2 inch Reese.
However, there was initially a little bit of slop that seems to be increasing. If I were to keep my current setup, I think I need some kind of shim between both the receiver and the insert, and the insert and the hitch's shaft.
Don't know which way to go, get a 2.5 inch Reese or have a new custom insert made, or just replace the OEM hitch.
Sigh. Paula
Paula,
I replaced my 2" GM receiver with a class V REESE 2.5"- bought the matching hardened sleeve. I've got a lot of play after ~10k miles... and it appears the 'slack' is getting worse. I jammed some washers in the space between the shank and sleeve for one trip- they weren't hardened, and it mashed them like pennies on a railroad track. Others here have recommended against any welding when dealing with hardened steel receivers, so like you, I'm thinking some hardened shims. I've also got the 'wallowing' out of the receiver pin hole- and I don't use a bent pin... go figure.
-J
Moosetags photo in post #3 of this thread is a perfect example of a BAD WELD.
Along the top there was enough heat for the weld bead to form a concave surface and bond adequately to both parts being welded together.
Along the side the weld starts out OK but right where the rust spot is the surface of the weld changes from concave to convex, there was not enough heat in the weld to "penetrate" and adhere to the round pipe. You can even see gaps between the weld-bead and the pipe.
That is BAD manufacturing, NO question !!
BWH
The last time I talked to a Reese Technical person I was told that the receivers were mild steel, just lots of mild steel. They strongly discouraged any welding to their redeivers due to their(Reese's) lack of control of the welders ability and the the typical welding shops ability to non-destructively test welds. It used to be that a Classs V hitch had to be welded to the chassis. That may have changed to.
The receivers that I have had checked for hardness (Rockwell) came back mild steel.
If your going to have any welding done on any part of a hitch, drawbar, ball mount, have it performed by a Certified Welder in a bonded and Insured welding shop.
You stand a better chance of getting a better weld.
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