Well, buddy, you are off to the right start even if a step got skipped. The end result of dialing in the hitch rigging, IMO, is that the TV drives and steers pretty well as if it were solo. A goal worth working towards as maintaining lane center with no undue driver inputs
is worth the effort. And the range of future adjustments -- barring a "new" TV or TT -- is then so small as to be worth it in itself: there's a narrow limit even for "major" changes to those vehicles or their loads. Peace of mind, IOW.
We start with the vehicle manufacturers guidelines, and Airstreams requirements. They are not
the end of the story, but they are the beginning. Post 'em up.
I borrowed a chart from contributor Ron Gratz
on Woodalls some time ago, and recommend it for the checks it provides. An "empty" TV weight (adjusted from factory shipping weight) is made with driver, full fuel and what remains permanently in truck. An "empty" TT weight is full water and propane, plus permanent trailer supplies (axles and TW). I like to have these prior to:
Ready for a trip, then onto the CAT Scale:
Weighing #1 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Activated
Let Front Axle Load be "FA1"
Let Rear Axle Load be "RA1"
Let TT Axles Load be "TT1"
Then, while in same position on scales, take
Weighing #2 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Not Activated
Let Front Axle Load be "FA2"
Let Rear Axle Load be "RA2"
Let TT Axles Load be "TT2"
Then, drive off scales and drop TT. Return to scales and take
Weighing #3 -- TV only -- TT Not Attached
Let Front Axle Load be "FA3"
Let Rear Axle Load be "RA3"
From the above values, you can calculate:
TV weight = FA3 + RA3
Gross Combined Weight = (FA1 + RA1 + TT1)
- should also be equal to (FA2 + RA2 + TT2) if scale weights are correct
TT Weight = Gross Combined Weight - TV Weight
Tongue Weight = (FA2 + RA2) - (FA3 + RA3)
Load Transferred to TT Axles
when WD System in Activated = TT1 - TT2
We none of us ever get this perfectly. But we can come real durn close. By coming as close as we can
we can tweak back and forth on one or two adjustments till we are satisfied. It allows us to get TV tire pressure ideal (as that is always
a pressure-versus-load problem) since TT tire pressure should always be sidewall maximum (or slightly higher) and doesn't change. Once dialled in it would be a quite large load change to have a corresponding TV tire pressure change trip-to-trip. The only real change is from solo to towing. Easy to maintain tire pressure even with load changes once one is "on vacation", IOW.
Steering control is everything. A washer or link here, a few psi there . . it is easily felt at the wheel.
Ideal hitch rigging also eliminates questions when some "new problem" is bothering our awareness. We want to take the effect of the trailer upon the tow vehicle
out of consideration for problem diagnosis (so it's not just for running the roads, but keeping track of how that feels as the rig ages). Keeps the diagnosis decision tree simpler.
Two threads for your consideration:
From Post #50: The RobertCross Limited
, with Diminished Hensley [Hitch] Performance?
Of course, anything
written by 2Airishuman
is worth your time, and especially so on hitch rigging. It isn't that one man is the authority, it is that 2Air has the full range of familarity with arguments (debates) on this subject and his links to other explanatory threads is unmatched.
Pictures of the rig and of hitch rigging (taken on level ground) are of benefit, and close-ups lend the experienced eyes around here the opportunity
to question and critique (mainly each other, ha!). The Full Monte, my friend.