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Old 03-28-2016, 11:01 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by kb0zke View Post
but I think his advice was spot on.
Yes, his advice about digging "gopher holes" was spot on for those times too.
But it, along with using a big car that had maybe 1/2 of the weight capacity of a modern 150 really isn't as relevant as these forums would have you think.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:59 AM   #16
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Buy a Hensley or a Pro-Pride and don't worry about tractor and trailers passing staying under a certain speed. if you can afford a nice tow vehicle and a nice trailer buy a good hitch of forget about camping. there are so many opinions on here but the real question to ask has anyone not liked the Hensley or the Pro-Pride if hooked up Correctly-----that is the important part Correctly!!!

thanks

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Old 03-28-2016, 12:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WherryWillie View Post
Is it absolutely essential to have any of these after market stabilizers? You can, can you not, drive in reasonable weather on reasonable roads with just the ball?
Having read through the responses on another newbies question, I recognize the nature of the vehicle and travel options may suggest which we finally choose. I have experience pulling boats and smaller RVs so I dont think a little sway is going to freak me out and Id like try it without to make the assessment of my specific rig and use.
I might mention that the Ram dealer claimed there is a smart function in the brake that will itself deal with some degree of sway. I take that with a grain of salt, but again, Id like to see how it works without the anti-sway hitch; can that be done? If it can, would you rate that as utterly stupid, or a reasonable 800-mile solution.
Thanks,
Your RAM dealer should have said the trailer brakes have a DUMB function.

Trailer brakes have no idea what the trailer is doing, be it a straight line or a sway.

Using a sway control, along with current day technology, is the maximum safety measures that you can utilize.

No sway control, is not asking, but BEGGING for trouble.

Be smart, be as safe as you can. Your family depends on that judgement.

Andy
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:03 PM   #18
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We are on our 3rd AS towing on just the ball with no negative issues. I also tow some construction trailers / equipment the same.
My advice, make sure you have enough truck to do this safely. If I did not I would run a WD device.
I have a 2014 RAM 3500 Cummins diesel with added air bags.
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:12 PM   #19
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Take a detour to visit CanAm RV's site. Even contact them; they are EXPERTS on towing. Period! You haven't had fright until you deal with a unstable trailer. CanAM is based in London Ontario Canada. Best regards!!
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:28 PM   #20
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Response to No. 1:

Quote:
Originally Posted by WherryWillie View Post
Im shopping for my first AirStream and have, as I see others about to join the fun have, a hitch question. I have on order a Ram 1500 with Class IV hitch and all the tow related options I could add, but no anti-sway attachment. The Ram dealer says get that from the RV dealer, as does the AS dealer. However, we are at this point intending to buy used. Some out there are EQ, some are Blue Ox and some are ProPride. Well likely install on the truck, what comes on the trailer we choose.
Ive read through the first tow on the AS site and still have these questions:
Is there a standard ball size for AS, and if so what is it?
What is the nominal height above ground for the ball?
The real toss-up question is this:
Is it absolutely essential to have any of these after market stabilizers? You can, can you not, drive in reasonable weather on reasonable roads with just the ball?
Having read through the responses on another newbies question, I recognize the nature of the vehicle and travel options may suggest which we finally choose. I have experience pulling boats and smaller RVs so I dont think a little sway is going to freak me out and Id like try it without to make the assessment of my specific rig and use.
I might mention that the Ram dealer claimed there is a smart function in the brake that will itself deal with some degree of sway. I take that with a grain of salt, but again, Id like to see how it works without the anti-sway hitch; can that be done? If it can, would you rate that as utterly stupid, or a reasonable 800-mile solution.
Thanks,
WW:

As far as the trailer you pull and need for WD, the immediate answer is YEP, most definitely. Consider your trailer (it's not a utility trailer), and decide how much insurance you want......a WD hitch is cheap for the price. Don't put anti sway on and you'll find the reason for it the first (very first) time you're driving along enjoying life on the Interstate at 50 or so, and a big rig comes by at 70 or so. Your reverie will instantly be overcome with utter terror. You will then seriously consider your options. As far as which WD, as you can tell that there are more than a few choices, and probably all (or most) work adequately, some even splendidly. Just remember that you get what you pay for, and sometimes prices can be a premium for the return you get. I've had one non-Reese setup, a round bar EazLift that worked okay, but I only had it for a few years. The other four trailer systems (and the one I have now) were Reese, with either a single friction sway setup, or the Reese double friction stirrup sway bars. I have towed four 28' to 30' Airstreams for a whole BUNCH of miles, and the Reese setup has NEVER had a hiccup.

As far as ball height, put the trailer on a level spot, level the trailer, and use a tape measure from ground to the underside of the ball cup. Then use a hitch head on the TV with a ball height of that same distance, and adjust the system, trailer and TV, to be level. For a Reese, that involves the amount of chain tension on the two bars and other factors, like trailer loading and TV loading. From that point on, FOR THE MOST PART, the only adjustments are to use the tension chains to keep the trailer level.

The Reese system is quite economical, and the cost of sway components is very reasonable.

You'll pick it up.

And happy trailering.


Kent
Houston
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Old 03-28-2016, 01:20 PM   #21
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Lots of good points above. One not mentioned: The 2016 Ram towing guide recommends a WD hitch for any trailer in excess of 5,000 pounds. Any WD hitch I've seen has anti sway features as well. The anti sway capability in the hitch is intended to prevent or minimize sway. The features in the truck attempt to stop sway with automatic breaking after it starts.
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Old 03-28-2016, 01:41 PM   #22
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I could be wrong.

The original poster's post doesn't seem to differentiate between Weight Distribution, and Sway Control.

WW, I suggest that you research these two topics, and what problems and safety issues that they minimize.

In a nutshell WD puts the back some weight on the front ( steering) tires

Sway control helps prevent Oscillating Sway, and jackknifing when braking on a curve, while on wet and/or gravel roads.
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Old 03-28-2016, 05:49 PM   #23
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by andreasduess View Post
Considering the value of your truck and your trailer, saving a couple of bucks on the hitch seems penny wise, but pound foolish.

Weight distribution and sway control make for a relaxing, stable ride.
I agree wholeheartedly. The equalizer hitch we have is not that expensive and yet it works really well. No noticeable sway and relaxed towing. Having used just the ball a few times I am convinced never to do so again. Minimal cost for a significant return on towing "comfort."
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:49 PM   #24
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Also not mentioned is that your 1500 is most likely equipped with P rated tires verses LT rated tires. P rated tires will contribute to sway. I had a 1/2 ton crew cab short bed pulling a 29' 7700 lbs with 900+ tongue weight trailer. I also had WDH with sway control built in. I was a tail wagging the dog. I really did not think I would get it home in one piece. I tried a couple different hitches, airbags and put tire pressure to the max. It made some improvements but nothing really help. Until I put LT tires on, that changed things, but in no way would I even think about towing without a sway control device then.


That being said, do you a Hensley or ProPride Hitch no probably not. Yes there is a huge difference in towing with them. But that's not to say you can't tow safely without them. You should be looking for a good quality hitch though the cheaper one will have you wanting more control.
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Old 03-29-2016, 02:05 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WherryWillie View Post
Im shopping for my first AirStream and have, as I see others about to join the fun have, a hitch question. I have on order a Ram 1500 with Class IV hitch and all the tow related options I could add, but no anti-sway attachment. The Ram dealer says get that from the RV dealer, as does the AS dealer. However, we are at this point intending to buy used. Some out there are EQ, some are Blue Ox and some are ProPride. Well likely install on the truck, what comes on the trailer we choose.
Ive read through the first tow on the AS site and still have these questions:
Is there a standard ball size for AS, and if so what is it?
Mostly 2 5/16" with some older and smaller trailers using 2"

Quote:
What is the nominal height above ground for the ball?
Varies from one trailer to the next, typically 18-19", torsion axles sag with time so older trailers may be an inch or two lower if the axles are approaching end of life

Quote:
The real toss-up question is this:
Is it absolutely essential to have any of these after market stabilizers? You can, can you not, drive in reasonable weather on reasonable roads with just the ball?
I personally on one occasion purchased a WD hitch for a 15 mile tow, then sold it. I was using a 3/4 ton Suburban with a 15,000 pound tow rating.

I have a friend of a friend who crashed when using a large trailer to move his stuff across town, due to a sway accident that WD would have prevented.

With a shorter Airstream and a heavier tow vehicle it matters less, and at some point doesn't help at all. With a 30' trailer, well, decide for yourself.

Quote:
Having read through the responses on another newbies question, I recognize the nature of the vehicle and travel options may suggest which we finally choose. I have experience pulling boats and smaller RVs so I dont think a little sway is going to freak me out and Id like try it without to make the assessment of my specific rig and use.
Boats have less wind area, better aerodynamics, and better weight distribution. From a physics and engineering standpoint, boats have less rotational inertia around the yaw axis, that is, the line extending vertically from midpoint between all four trailer wheels. Another way of putting it is that the weight of, say, a 26' boat is closer to the wheels than the weight of a 26' airstream. Boat trailers also typically put the wheels farther back.

Accordingly, be careful applying your boat-towing experience to RVs.

Quote:
I might mention that the Ram dealer claimed there is a smart function in the brake that will itself deal with some degree of sway.
These systems work by applying brakes on one or the other side of the tow vehicle to try to compensate. I have not used one, but I would not depend on one to the point of eliminating WD if it were otherwise necessary.

Quote:
I take that with a grain of salt, but again, Id like to see how it works without the anti-sway hitch; can that be done? If it can, would you rate that as utterly stupid, or a reasonable 800-mile solution.
How good is your insurance?
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Old 03-30-2016, 12:34 PM   #26
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Folks, thank you very much. I come from the sailing community. Anchors, hulls and rigs have the same sort of followings there that I see here on the hitch choices. The difference is, a discussion on sharpie vs wherry on the wind might draw 20 comments. Throw out a question here and 2,000 helpers come to the party.
I like that and have my path forward.
Thanks
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