Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-02-2015, 07:04 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
Larry C's Avatar
 
1996 34' Excella
Elberta , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingsilver View Post
Hello,
I understand how you count your links and being on the Fifth link and so on, however you previously said that you went a link up, so you went from 4 to five? Correct?
Sorry, I guess I didn't make myself clear on that....if you decrease the number of links under tension, you are increasing the tension on the bars. Subsequently, if you increase the number of links under tension. you are decreasing the tension on the bars.

Please read the comments directly above this reply, as the "tilt" of the ball makes a difference also. The tilt of the ball (up or down) will make a big difference on the number of links under tension.
Larry C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 07:16 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
Larry C's Avatar
 
1996 34' Excella
Elberta , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolland View Post
Just my 2 cents worth-I use a Reese on all my trailers, and it works fine-But-the reason for having at least 5 or 6 links, if your torsion bars have the chain attached to the end of them, and you have less than 5 or 6 links in the open the hitch or trailer will be damaged when you make a sharp turn. If in doubt, hook up your hitch, then in a big field or parking lot have someone jackknife your rig backing up while you watch your hitch and see what the limits are. Good luck, most of it is just common sense. Rolland


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

Rolland, I think you are correct if you are using the Reese W/D hitch without the sway control, (Dual Cam, or Straight Line) the product without sway control have the chains connected to the trunnion bars.

With the sway control, (either the new, or old style), the trunnion bars are not connected directly to the chains, they rest on the "saddle", which the chains are connected to....because the chains are connected to the "saddle" the trunnion bars slide on the cam, and are not movement is not restricted by the length of the chain.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Larry
Larry C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 07:21 AM   #23
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry C View Post
Rolland, I think you are correct if you are using the Reese W/D hitch without the sway control, (Dual Cam, or Straight Line) the product without sway control have the chains connected to the trunnion bars.

With the sway control, (either the new, or old style), the trunnion bars are not connected directly to the chains, they rest on the "saddle", which the chains are connected to....because the chains are connected to the "saddle" the trunnion bars slide on the cam, and are not movement is not restricted by the length of the chain.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Larry
This is correct, however, if you have too few links under tension, the spring bars can and will contact the cam arms and bend or break the threaded portion of the arm. More head tilt should be utilized before reducing the links under tension.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 07:21 AM   #24
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
Larry, you and Roland are both correct, but I suggest you do this...mock up a Reese with the chains only, and set it at 5 links, and then look at the angle of the bars reference the ground when the trailer is level. Now, if that is not enough weight distribution, what do you do? You tilt the ball back.
__________________
Regards,
Steve
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2015, 07:22 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Larry C's Avatar
 
1996 34' Excella
Elberta , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
With all the Reese hitches that I have dealt with (4), before worrying about how many links to use, or how tight to tighten the bars, you must first set the hitch head angle.

With the later model hitch heads, one tooth of tilt on the head is about equal to one chain link at the end of the bar. The objective is to get the proper amount of weight distribution and have the bars approximately level with the ground by adjusting the tilt of the head. Yes, lots of trial and error to get it right.
Steve,
You are exactly right regarding the ball angle...the first ime I set one of these up, I had one hell of a time understanding that....I forgot to mention it in my explanation...
It does take a bit of trial and error, and perhaps an hour or so of changing the settings, but once they are set, I've not had to change the tilt angle...
Thanks for mentioning this.

Larry
Larry C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2015, 11:09 PM   #26
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry C View Post
Well said, and right on target. I don't think some of these "PP" and "HAHA" users realize how much they offend people when their superior attitude comes to light.

Not everyone can afford the cost of these things, and some of us feel that the product we have works just as well for us. If the hitch is set up corrctly, and consistently, there's little chance that one will have a hitch failure.



For whatever it's worth.



Larr

Do you have a 2wd Dodge diesel pulling a 30+ trailer. I do, and know how much force it can take to overcome the wheelbase and spring combo, not to mention other things touched on. That broken trunnion may not be entirely from age and/or miles.

The OP indicates JC set him up using the equal squat method. May not be necessary or best on this rig. Others have had to change settings from that source. 100% FALR is about tops for a truck. More than that is inviting a truck-induced trailer yaw situation. Jacking the rear with WD, so to speak, to avoid going over RAWR isn't recommended by anyone for this reason.

As well that frame rail movement is unequal with the stock receiver. Frame flex, especially with trying to distribute big TW forces. The OP lives near enough to CAN AM that it is not burdensome, but practically speaking located just down the road. Advice is free and reinforcement not at all expensive.

Hitch receiver reinforcement can possibly reduce the amount of force necessary to achieve a similar end. The Dodge hitch receiver isn't all that great, and not rated for the kinds of force an equal squat WD entails. It may be that less frame flex and less weight transfer due to reinforcement and/or a better hitch receiver means a better lash up in all respects.

As to a better hitch I'm sorry you don't understand the difference. The OP spent real money in upgrading tires and wheels. In the minds of some he should have stayed with ST. Instead he bit the bullet. He's not afraid to spend if he sees a necessity. With as many miles as he travels annually the better VPP hitches really shine. No other type is a good comparison. The cost difference isn't that great from tires and it is more important.

OP, did the Smart Weigh test get done? I meant to add that I'd recommend to stop by a Cat Scale to get the three number sets of hitched with WD tensioned; hitched with WD slack; and truck solo as followup comps.

Much easier to make comparisons from easily available Cat readings in the future as there will be differences between SW and Cat. The SW vs Cat with no changes in between will preserve what you did in their wheel by wheel weighing.

What was the deduced TW on your trailer?

I've had DOT weigh my tractor-trailer with their latest portable scales and I've then proceeded to a Cat Scale for this exact type of reference.

Weighed at all four corners my 2004 Dodge is at 7,940lbs and within 40lbs. I have found it worthwhile to add a rear antiroll bar (not present in OEM spec on 3rd Gen Cummins trucks) and to change the front to a larger size to compensate. There are differences between our two trucks different generations, but I can state the truck is better in all respects. If the OP is running heavy like I am while solo and if he's wondered at this change I can say it was worthwhile.

And I still recommend the steering brace and poly bushings. My 2nd Gen 2001 truck benefitted. These are really cheap.

As before, good luck.
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 08:09 AM   #27
"Cloudsplitter"

 
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,977
Images: 1
Leverage...

"Hitch receiver reinforcement can possibly reduce the amount of force necessary to achieve a similar end. The Dodge hitch receiver isn't all that great, and not rated for the kinds of force an equal squat WD entails. It may be that less frame flex and less weight transfer due to reinforcement and/or a better hitch receiver means a better lash up in all respects."

^
X2


Re-inforcement....or a receiver built with the proper purchase.

My experience...

The OEM receiver on our 2500 Burb, note the length of the frame mount flange's.
It took way too much WD flex to transfer the needed weight with 1000lb bars.


The Reese Tow Beast V replacement, notice the much longer mounts.

The added leverage on the Burb's frame enabled the needed transfer with considerably less flex with the same WD bars.

Bob
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 08:22 PM   #28
Rivet Master
 
blkmagikca's Avatar

 
1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,414
I plan on getting the SW done at the Escapade in Tucson in March. There is always the possibility that I can also have it done in another couple of weeks on my way back to Casa Grande from Quartzsite - by going over to Escapee park in Congress. I will look into the points raised concerning the hitch receiver. I have not had any issues with sway, and that includes an evasive manoeuvre last year near Las Vegas at 60 mph.

I'll also look into the hitch receiver issue you raised. I'm not altogether comfortable with welding on reinforcement, and would prefer changing the OEM hitch receiver for a heavier manufactured receiver. Before making that move, though, I would want to be back in Ottawa to have "Diesel Dave's" opinion, as he's the guy who will be doing the work.
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
WBCCI 8080
blkmagikca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 08:48 PM   #29
3 Rivet Member
 
Rolland's Avatar
 
1967 30' Sovereign
Chiefland , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry C View Post
Rolland, I think you are correct if you are using the Reese W/D hitch without the sway control, (Dual Cam, or Straight Line) the product without sway control have the chains connected to the trunnion bars.



With the sway control, (either the new, or old style), the trunnion bars are not connected directly to the chains, they rest on the "saddle", which the chains are connected to....because the chains are connected to the "saddle" the trunnion bars slide on the cam, and are not movement is not restricted by the length of the chain.



Please correct me if I'm wrong.



Larry

Right, I use the one without the saddles. Also use a adjustable friction device between the hitch head and trailer hitch for sway control. You guys are right about the trial and error of getting the correct angle, so the bars load properly without taking out too many links in the chain. Reese makes a good, strong, relatively inexpensive hitch, that works fine if properly set up.


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
Rolland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 10:21 PM   #30
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
I plan on getting the SW done at the Escapade in Tucson in March. There is always the possibility that I can also have it done in another couple of weeks on my way back to Casa Grande from Quartzsite - by going over to Escapee park in Congress. I will look into the points raised concerning the hitch receiver. I have not had any issues with sway, and that includes an evasive manoeuvre last year near Las Vegas at 60 mph.

I'll also look into the hitch receiver issue you raised. I'm not altogether comfortable with welding on reinforcement, and would prefer changing the OEM hitch receiver for a heavier manufactured receiver. Before making that move, though, I would want to be back in Ottawa to have "Diesel Dave's" opinion, as he's the guy who will be doing the work.

If you change the hitch receiver then not Curt brand, but Titan or Drawtite Class V. #45010. Sleeve down if needed. Use this reference for your research.
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 10:22 PM   #31
Rivet Master
 
blkmagikca's Avatar

 
1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,414
Keep in mind that there is a cup-like curve at the end of the WD bar, and that cup rests in the saddle. When the TV turns, these bars slide in the saddle, and they ride upwards in the saddle due to the cup. This increases pressure to return to a straight line. Hence there is active sway control, unlike the passive one by using the friction bars. When I was at JC, Don Ambos told me that back in the late 1960's they hitched an AS trailer to and Oldsmobile Toronado using the Reese Dual Cam system, tightened up the WD bars and removed the rear wheels. They drove this contraption down Pike Street in JC and it tracked in a straight line. Don, at that time, was the service manager and traveled with Wally Byam on the caravans.
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
WBCCI 8080
blkmagikca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 10:23 PM   #32
Rivet Master
 
blkmagikca's Avatar

 
1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,414
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
If you change the hitch receiver then not Curt brand, but Titan or Drawtite Class V. #45010. Sleeve down if needed. Use this reference for your research.
Thanks.
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
WBCCI 8080
blkmagikca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2015, 06:58 AM   #33
Rivet Master
 
Larry C's Avatar
 
1996 34' Excella
Elberta , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
Keep in mind that there is a cup-like curve at the end of the WD bar, and that cup rests in the saddle. When the TV turns, these bars slide in the saddle, and they ride upwards in the saddle due to the cup. This increases pressure to return to a straight line. Hence there is active sway control, unlike the passive one by using the friction bars. When I was at JC, Don Ambos told me that back in the late 1960's they hitched an AS trailer to and Oldsmobile Toronado using the Reese Dual Cam system, tightened up the WD bars and removed the rear wheels. They drove this contraption down Pike Street in JC and it tracked in a straight line. Don, at that time, was the service manager and traveled with Wally Byam on the caravans.
I worked for Trailer Life in Elkhart, IN, at that time. Later on, in the early 1970's as I remember, Art Rouse, the original owner of Trailer Life, and T.J. Reese, drove that rig from the Los Angles office of Trailer Life with Rouse's Airstream, and Oldsmobile Toronado, across the country to New York City. There was a feature article in Trailer Life about it...

Larry C
Larry C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2015, 07:28 AM   #34
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
A grand publicity stunt.
__________________
Regards,
Steve
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2015, 09:56 AM   #35
Rivet Master
 
blkmagikca's Avatar

 
1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,414
Just placed the order for the Reese Titan Class V receiver - p/n 45010 - along with the reducing sleeve and a stainless steel dogbone lock. Purchase was made from etrailer.com. Total cost (free shipping) is $350.85. It should arrive here mid-next week and I've arranged for its installation.

Thanks to slowmover for pointing this out to me.
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
WBCCI 8080
blkmagikca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2015, 10:08 AM   #36
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
Images: 1
Your rig is similar to mine -- and that your annual miles are high ranging nearly cross-continent -- thus I search and read your many posts so as to keep perspective on rig performance. You are welcome and please accept my thanks as well.
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2015, 11:11 AM   #37
"Cloudsplitter"

 
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,977
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
Just placed the order for the Reese Titan Class V receiver - p/n 45010 - along with the reducing sleeve and a stainless steel dogbone lock. Purchase was made from etrailer.com. Total cost (free shipping) is $350.85. It should arrive here mid-next week and I've arranged for its installation.

Thanks to slowmover for pointing this out to me.

AHH....another TOW BEAST V, you won't be sorry.

Bob
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2015, 08:37 AM   #38
Rivet Master
 
blkmagikca's Avatar

 
1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,414
Got the Titan Class V hitch installed - went on without any issues. Also got a small crane at Harbor Freight and had it installed so I can more easily lift the 3kW generator onto the truck. Neat item for $99 - 1/2 Ton Capacity Pickup Truck Crane

Also found out that the 5/16" clevis slip hook with latch that I have for the safety chains won't hook onto the class V receiver. Looks like I have to visit our local Ace Hardware to get larger ones.
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
WBCCI 8080
blkmagikca is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Where to find out of production Reese Trunion part no. 58028 PARKS1963 General Repair Forum 5 06-25-2013 12:33 PM
Reese Dual Cam Trunion Bars wheel interested Hitches, Couplers & Balls 3 08-18-2012 11:58 AM
Reese Trunion Type Weight Distribution Set Up mtjim Hitches, Couplers & Balls 18 09-29-2008 01:27 PM
Reese friction to Reese Dual Cam ? Kistler Our Community 7 07-01-2003 07:53 PM
Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam Sway Control? VWMARTINEZ Hitches, Couplers & Balls 19 03-19-2003 06:17 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.