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Old 08-20-2015, 05:22 PM   #57
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My gut feel is you want the highest rated bars that:

A) give you at least 2" of deflection

and

B) don't transfer too much weight back to the front TV axle

The question would be does a 750 lb bar with 3" of deflection provide more sway resistance than a 1000 lb bar with 2" of deflection?


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Old 08-21-2015, 12:12 AM   #58
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Aw - yes, default info solution is always to consult the designer. May just have to make that call. We do need a bit of tech.

Joe - I read the first ten pages of that thread before my eyes glazed over. In summary, use lighter bars with heavier TV. Use 1000# bars for a big car; 800# bars for a 1/2ton without overloads; 750# for 1/2 ton with overloads; 550# for 1/2ton with overloads and 3/4ton or larger tow vehicles. This info is for the Reese system and may not have a direct relationship to the BOSP design, but the Reese users seem to find it a solution. Any BOSP users find that reducing the bar weight rating when you use a larger TV helps your hitch performance?

KH - the 750# bars do provide 2" of deflection. While the BOSP bars are tapered and the spring force is likely not linear with respect to bar deflection, using a direct relationship gives 2x1000=2000 and 3x750=2250. Not likely a representative force, but should be proportional.

A bit more to muddle over. Ain't levers and springs interesting tools? Pat
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:29 AM   #59
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Loving our Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch with 1000# bars and 30' Serenity.

Not a ton of experience using this set up, as yet, but so far, we're very happy with the performance of the hitch used with our 3/4 ton diesel truck. Big thumbs up.
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:49 AM   #60
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Blue Ox Sway Pro

I just got rid of a bosp. I could not find a solution to my sway problems. I started with 1500 pound bars, which I needed to bring my back end up, but couldn't get 2" of spring flex.
Met with a factory rep who gave me 1000 pound bars, which just made my rear end squat and made sway worse!
I tow a heavy 34' and my Excursion is loaded to the max. I just last night reinstalled the Reese SL with the sway control (which I have been tickled with for hundreds of thousands of miles).
I went with BO after a part on my Reese broke, and I couldn't get a replacement quickly. Camping world swapped out my hitch with a BO.
I immediately regretted my decision, as the Blue Ox never controlled the Airstream like the Reese SL did.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:48 AM   #61
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I have had zero problems with the BO WD system. I did notice on the initial setup that the rear tires on my tandem axle trailer were running hotter than the front. I reduced the tension by one link and all is well.
Using heavier bars than necessary would cause handling problems IMHO. Putting too much force and not enough flex would shift the weight to the front axle of the TV and rear axle of the coach. It would be akin to having the hitch height too high.


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Old 08-21-2015, 03:06 PM   #62
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AW - Talked to BO today and got a bit of info. Not sure I got all the answers right, but it's a start.

Is there any differential force multiplication for sway control built into the BOSP hitch design? Answer - the head has caster which helps prevent sway and movement of the trailer unloads one spring while increasing the load on the other spring to move the trailer back in line. As I understand it, there does not appear to be any significant force multiplication over what would be expected from additional spring rate displacement.

How should the bars weight be established? Answer - bars should be rated heavier than tongue weight. If tongue weight is more than bar rating, change to the next heavier size bar. There is no consideration with respect to the TV configuration.

How does the TV's weight relate to the torsion necessary to control sway? Answer - none - see previous answer.

So, are 750# bars the appropriate starting point for rigging a 6000# trailer with 600# tongue weight? Answer - yes

Under what conditions would a change in bar weight rating be necessary? Answer - when the tongue weight exceeds the rating of the bars.

Pat
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Old 08-21-2015, 04:43 PM   #63
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Pat, I am not an engineer so I truly I have no idea what you are talking about with most of that post. But in my case it is not necessary to know how it works, as long as it does.
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:58 PM   #64
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AW - Talked to BO today and got a bit of info. Not sure I got all the answers right, but it's a start.

Is there any differential force multiplication for sway control built into the BOSP hitch design? Answer - the head has caster which helps prevent sway and movement of the trailer unloads one spring while increasing the load on the other spring to move the trailer back in line. As I understand it, there does not appear to be any significant force multiplication over what would be expected from additional spring rate displacement.

How should the bars weight be established? Answer - bars should be rated heavier than tongue weight. If tongue weight is more than bar rating, change to the next heavier size bar. There is no consideration with respect to the TV configuration.

How does the TV's weight relate to the torsion necessary to control sway? Answer - none - see previous answer.

So, are 750# bars the appropriate starting point for rigging a 6000# trailer with 600# tongue weight? Answer - yes

Under what conditions would a change in bar weight rating be necessary? Answer - when the tongue weight exceeds the rating of the bars.

Pat
Pat... thanks for the info.

We've been very happy with the performance of our Blue Ox SP, using the 1000# bars.

The next step up from 1000# bars is 1500# bars. It would be great if they offered an intermediate grade: 1250#.
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:24 PM   #65
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AW - me thinks you shine a body on just a wee bit. Most cool! Pat
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:35 PM   #66
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DHart - there was a fellow that posted somewhere that he reduced the physical size of his heavy bars to reduce the spring rate (mod 1500s to make them 1250s). But, from what folks have posted on the Reese thread, light bars might be best for AS. Pat
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:50 AM   #67
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Weighed the rig yesterday. TV loaded - 2660 front and 3260 rear. TV with trailer - 2620 front, 3720 rear and 4840 trailer. Now we load the trailer to travel configuration and get another set of weights. Pat
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:27 PM   #68
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For what it's worth. We are on our first big road trip since purchasing our '15 FC FB and blue ox with 1k bars. We left Portland on Thursday, headed for Lincoln City, and then down the coast to Bullards Beach State Park for the first night. About a 4 to 5 hr drive, depending. Along the way, I was driving and checking out a RV resort for possible future stops when a hundred yards (give or take) ahead of me, a car decided to come to a stop in the only traffic lane so he could turn left. He didn't bother to signal, or to pull into the center two way left turn lane, but blocked the lane of travel. Meanwhile, I was looking at the Rv resort and not ahead of me. At 55 mph we closed the distance rapidly. I heard my wife gasp and looked up, and hit the brakes and turned hard to avoid a collision. We missed him, and the trailer and 2009 Silverado LT never felt out of control. The worst part aside from the panic and racing heart rate was listening to my wife berate me for the next half hour. Very happy with the Blue Ox System. By the way, I'm posting this from Pacifica CA, where we arrived safely this pm.

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Old 09-01-2015, 08:56 PM   #69
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Glad read you are safe but next time let the wife check out the campgrounds and you concentrate on the driving. These Nav systems and other electronic goodies are as bad as texting.

Blue Ox question. The instructions state to set your ball a couple of inches higher than the trailer's coupler. Don't you then have to jack the trailer pretty high up for the ball to clear when hitching. For me the ball would be 25"-26" and would mean jacking the trailer over 26".

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Old 09-02-2015, 12:23 AM   #70
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Glad read you are safe but next time let the wife check out the campgrounds and you concentrate on the driving. These Nav systems and other electronic goodies are as bad as texting.

Blue Ox question. The instructions state to set your ball a couple of inches higher than the trailer's coupler. Don't you then have to jack the trailer pretty high up for the ball to clear when hitching. For me the ball would be 25"-26" and would mean jacking the trailer over 26".

Kelvin
That's pretty typical for non-ppp, it works the same for my old EAZ-Lift, I think it would be similar for a Reese. You'll have some compression of the truck's suspension to take up the tongue weight that's not transferred back to the trailer's axles.

Raise tongue, back up under the coupler, drop trailer on the ball, lock the coupler, lift the assembly, tension the weight distro, retract the jack.
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