Blue Ox

[AWCHIEF]

Heads up for Blue Ox users.
Recently returned from a 2500 mile journey. Got home and discovered the U-bolts on the bars both deformed. As a preventative measure I went ahead and changed the U-bolts out. No way of nowing the cause but I did spend a lot of miles on rough Florida roads under going their continuing reconstruction. Better safe than sorry.

[AWCHIEF]

Suppose I should add, nothing dramatic or life threatening involved. Anything man made has a tendency to failure sometime in its life span.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Heads up for Blue Ox users.
Recently returned from a 2500 mile journey. Got home and discovered the U-bolts on the bars both deformed. As a preventative measure I went ahead and changed the U-bolts out. No way of nowing the cause but I did spend a lot of miles on rough Florida roads under going their continuing reconstruction. Better safe than sorry.

I have same problem with one side U-bolt a little bent. When pulling out of space or driving over a speed bump, if there is a "dip" in the ground, or a "bump", one side (or both sides) can catch on the low point on the bars. I am now always "very careful" when in this type situation. Don't think the equalizer has this issue, but could be wrong. My F150 hookup sits pretty low the way it is set up level when loaded with AS.

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

I have same problem with one side U-bolt a little bent. When pulling out of space or driving over a speed bump, if there is a "dip" in the ground, or a "bump", one side (or both sides) can catch on the low point on the bars. I am now always "very careful" when in this type situation. Don't think the equalizer has this issue, but could be wrong. My F150 hookup sits pretty low the way it is set up level when loaded with AS.

That could be what caused the deformed U-bolts. I did bottom out a couple of times on the trip both front and rear of the trailer. When I put on the new bolts I trimmed the excess length flush to the lock nuts.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

That could be what caused the deformed U-bolts. I did bottom out a couple of times on the trip both front and rear of the trailer. When I put on the new bolts I trimmed the excess length flush to the lock nuts.

Don't forget Blue Ox says to put red threadlocker on all threads. Those U-bolts are not something I would want coming loose and falling off while towing.

[gmw photos]

Chief, could you post of a picture of the damaged u-bolt ? I'm having a hard time visualizing this. I have close to 30K miles towing with mine, and the u-bolts are only showing signs of wear at the point they hang from the chain.

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by gmw photos

Chief, could you post of a picture of the damaged u-bolt ? I'm having a hard time visualizing this. I have close to 30K miles towing with mine, and the u-bolts are only showing signs of wear at the point they hang from the chain.

Sorry, already tossed them. Really nothing impressive to take pictures of. Just bent, one slightly to the side and the other towards the rear of the bar. I probably could of gone years and never had a real issue. As I said it was preventative maintenance. Just something to keep an eye on.

[PKI]

AW - were the threaded ends below bar bent or was the U-section above bar bent? Did the replacements come from Blue Ox or a hardware source? Any specific specification?

Thanks for posting the information. We all benefit from the sharing of our experience.

Pat

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by PKI

AW - were the threaded ends below bar bent or was the U-section above bar bent? Did the replacements come from Blue Ox or a hardware source? Any specific specification?

Thanks for posting the information. We all benefit from the sharing of our experience.

Pat

Bent both top and bottom.

Replacements were Marine Stainless from Lowe's. Took the old one in and matched it as close as possible.

Used the stainless because they had no galvanized U-bolts anywhere close. Theoretically should be stronger than the originals. Will of course keep a close eye on them.

[PKI]

AW - Thanks. SST sounds like a good upgrade.

Travel safe. Pat

[AWCHIEF]

Found the old links. You can see how they are deformed. It looked worse when they were on the bars. I had to pound them out to remove. That actually straightened them out a bit. New link is a bit longer so might have to take up one more link when hooking up.

[Hiho Silver]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Don't forget Blue Ox says to put red threadlocker on all threads. Those U-bolts are not something I would want coming loose and falling off while towing.

Good information, it's now on my to do list. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by Hiho Silver

Good information, it's now on my to do list. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

I used nylon insert lock nuts. Guess I need to pull them off and use a dab of threadlock or not.

[gmw photos]

Chief,
Thanks for the followup. As a point of reference, I put a dab of grease on the u-bolt/first link contact point occasionally too. Don't know if it really helps or not....maybe it just makes me feel like I'm doing something worthwhile. I put a dab of grease on the hitch ball too.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

I used nylon insert lock nuts. Guess I need to pull them off and use a dab of threadlock or not.

Obviously, they are not considering aftermarket modifications. I'm not sure I'd want to use nylock nuts in that location. Reese uses locking nuts that don't (or say they don't) have the nylock insert. Those nuts are identified by a small square dimple on several of the hex surfaces.
Of course, we may all be overthinking a non-problem...

[gmw photos]

For whatever it's worth, the hardware that came with mine from BlueOx was nylon locking nuts. The instructions were clear also that these should NOT be done up tight....the u-bolt is intended to be able to move freely in the holes in the bars.

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by gmw photos

Chief,
Thanks for the followup. As a point of reference, I put a dab of grease on the u-bolt/first link contact point occasionally too. Don't know if it really helps or not....maybe it just makes me feel like I'm doing something worthwhile. I put a dab of grease on the hitch ball too.

Me too. I keep a tube of clear Molly grease and a grease gun in the back of the Jeep. I give the bars a shoot of fresh grease and a dab of Molly to the ball and other moving parts when ever I hook up. Starting to get some rust on the hitch parts. Before long need to give them a new coat of paint.

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by gmw photos

For whatever it's worth, the hardware that came with mine from BlueOx was nylon locking nuts. The instructions were clear also that these should NOT be done up tight....the u-bolt is intended to be able to move freely in the holes in the bars.

OK, just went thru the manual twice and found no mention of the U-bolts. Can you give me a page and paragraph number?

[gmw photos]

Michael,
Sorry for the delay getting back to you.

It's been a while since I set up my hitch ( I have the old generation version ), but as I recall, the instructions about the bars were at this link:

http://blueox.com/hitch-accessories/...g-bars-550-lb/

.....however, now, at that link, the hot link at the bottom of that page only re-directs back to the same page, rather than to the instructions themselves.

[AWCHIEF]

Nothing in the printed instructions that came with mine or on their web page about it. I called them the other day to ask and they had no idea what I was talking about. Said what I used should work just fine. They did remind me to make sure that chain was straight up and down when tensioned and that I might have to adjust the position of the brackets and chain link used due to the slightly longer U-bolt.