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Old 04-23-2016, 12:28 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
I used nylon insert lock nuts. Guess I need to pull them off and use a dab of threadlock or not.
Obviously, they are not considering aftermarket modifications. I'm not sure I'd want to use nylock nuts in that location. Reese uses locking nuts that don't (or say they don't) have the nylock insert. Those nuts are identified by a small square dimple on several of the hex surfaces.
Of course, we may all be overthinking a non-problem...
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:25 PM   #16
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For whatever it's worth, the hardware that came with mine from BlueOx was nylon locking nuts. The instructions were clear also that these should NOT be done up tight....the u-bolt is intended to be able to move freely in the holes in the bars.
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Old 04-23-2016, 02:07 PM   #17
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Chief,
Thanks for the followup. As a point of reference, I put a dab of grease on the u-bolt/first link contact point occasionally too. Don't know if it really helps or not....maybe it just makes me feel like I'm doing something worthwhile. I put a dab of grease on the hitch ball too.

Me too. I keep a tube of clear Molly grease and a grease gun in the back of the Jeep. I give the bars a shoot of fresh grease and a dab of Molly to the ball and other moving parts when ever I hook up. Starting to get some rust on the hitch parts. Before long need to give them a new coat of paint.
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Old 04-23-2016, 02:09 PM   #18
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For whatever it's worth, the hardware that came with mine from BlueOx was nylon locking nuts. The instructions were clear also that these should NOT be done up tight....the u-bolt is intended to be able to move freely in the holes in the bars.



OK, just went thru the manual twice and found no mention of the U-bolts. Can you give me a page and paragraph number?
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:31 AM   #19
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Michael,
Sorry for the delay getting back to you.

It's been a while since I set up my hitch ( I have the old generation version ), but as I recall, the instructions about the bars were at this link:

http://blueox.com/hitch-accessories/...g-bars-550-lb/

.....however, now, at that link, the hot link at the bottom of that page only re-directs back to the same page, rather than to the instructions themselves.
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:49 AM   #20
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Nothing in the printed instructions that came with mine or on their web page about it. I called them the other day to ask and they had no idea what I was talking about. Said what I used should work just fine. They did remind me to make sure that chain was straight up and down when tensioned and that I might have to adjust the position of the brackets and chain link used due to the slightly longer U-bolt.
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:40 PM   #21
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FYI, My first trip out with new BO 1000LB was very bouncy, but mostly due to 18" P-metric tires on the F150 not inflated enough, BUT one bar did not return to straight and I did get a quick replacement from BO (both bars). My TW was under 1000 and I was not linked up past the 2nd recommended link (#10). I have seen this issue posted before, so there is a quality control issue in the metallurgy dept. , but safety is probably not an issue, as the bar is not likely to just snap in half...just saying'...
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:07 PM   #22
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My BO was set up by my dealer when we picked up our airstream last summer. For what it's worth we have six chain links that dangle free when we are hooked up. That is what our dealer said was right, our trailer looks level, and there is some deflection in the 1000 lb bars. (Looks to me like around an inch and a half, but kinda hard to tell) Anyway, we get a great ride/tow, no issues that I know of. So far I figure we have around 1600-1800 miles towing the trailer. One thing I have to do is buy a grease gun. Does anyone know if those mini grease guns will work?

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Old 05-05-2016, 09:10 PM   #23
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A 40 year old Mini grease gun is what I use. Works like a champ. Fits in the storage hole in the back area of the Jeep with an extra tube of grease. Handy and does not get left at home.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:58 PM   #24
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Thx AW. Mini grease gun now on the shopping list. This airstream is getting expensive!

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Old 05-05-2016, 10:45 PM   #25
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Just did a short shake down after some adjustments. Moved to a shank that is 1" shorter than the H-beam BO shank from head to pin. Moved the head up one set of holes. With the 15" tires, the AS now sits 1/2" low measured front to rear. There is still room to shorten up the shank another 2" if that turns out to be viable. The new shank is solid, but only weighs 4 lbs more than the h-beam. A good solution for our application. Pat
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Old 05-31-2016, 03:38 PM   #26
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I just installed my Blue Ox, now to adjust the chains and the RED "Lock tight".

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Old 06-09-2016, 02:56 PM   #27
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I just installed my Blue Ox, now to adjust the chains and the RED "Lock tight".

mike
I would use blue loctite ( 242 ). If you use red, you're likely going to need to use heat next time you want to remove.
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