Big Truck + Small Trailer: ease of install, hitch, unhitch, back up / sway /WD / cost

[gator.bigfoot]

The Hensley is a learning curve but once you have it figured out you won't tow with anything else. You will also learn that it is in fact easier to hookup than any other hitch.

[PKI]

Originally Posted by reverie room

-- snip -- I tend to research until I am comfortable -- snip --

RR - good attitude if "comfortable" means you understand the trade offs.

You said the Cub video was not informative. Maybe this one will help.

https://www.hensleymfg.com/watch-vid...os-by-hensley/

On the hook up difficulty - backup cameras are not expensive and easy to install. Dual tennis balls on sticks work for cheap too.


This is the Anderson thread. Howie knows it all and would be helpful if you get serious about the Anderson. Note - Howie has learned more since his original posts. Dig deep on this. There is wear, but the ease of use may be worth the trade offs.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ead-92131.html


If Airstream recommends and can install the Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch, that gives you another easy to implement solution.

Keep researching. Pat

[PKI]

RR - The punt is tow on the ball with no WDH/SC. Drive slow ~ 40-50 MPH. Pick a windless day and use roads without semis. Don't make any radical manouvers and stop straight from an adequate following distance. That allows you to tow the rig to another shop for hitch installation or home while you figue out your options, wait for a delivery, or do the install yourself.

Note, there are several Blue Ox Threads. Individuals? Nonconformists? Or maybe just a lack of a good search function. The blue box at the top of the page works now.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ts-161825.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...er-147849.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...de-128113.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ry-141852.html

A very early thread - some history to start you off - initial design had an adjustable head - don't let anyone sell you that version.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-in-34559.html

There are some others too.

There are always options in the RV world. Keep doing your research. Pat

[BillfromWI]

reverie room,

I’ve commented to a number or threads about the tongue weight of our FC25FB. Here follows one of them. I added the weight abbreviation definitions if case you are not familiar with them.

Airstream’s specified tongue weight for our 25 is 837 lbs. and that is what used to spec the tow vehicle I ordered for it. Unfortunately 837 is a bit short of the truth.

I think I could easily have made the Blue Ox work with the GMC but for the reasons I’ve mentioned I like the Andersen better. I bought the Blue Ox because I was trying to keep the Ford but when that didn’t work as I’d hoped I decided to walk away from it, partly because we were going on the WBCCI Alaska caravan. I’m very glad I made the change. Others on that caravan suffered falling upper cabinets, moving lower cabinets, moving walls, sheared wheel studs, and a dropped water tank. We had none of that.

I’m convinced that about half the rigs out there are overloaded in one way or another and nobody worries. I wondered about that until a conversation with a campground owner at our local RV show. He said that 85% of RV tows are 80 miles or less and the average campground stay for those tows is a week--most trailers don’t go very far and they are on good roads. That’s not us.

GAWR Gross Axle Weight Rating
GVWR Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
GCWR Gross Combined Weight Rating



We have a 2014 FC25FB twin with factory solar (52 lb. Lifeline batteries). The tongue weight is 1252 lbs. loaded for a three week trip and with an Andersen hitch (less than 60 lbs.), and about 75% propane and 50% water. Add about 7 lbs. for the missing propane. Add 150 lbs. for the missing water, but most of that would be on the axles. The 1252 lb weight is from the Airstream production line scale—I had them weight it while I was there for warranty work.

My first TV was a 2013 F-150: Steer GAWR 3,900, Drive GAWR 4,050, GVWR 7,700, Max Trailer WR 11,300, GCWR 16,900, and Cargo WR 2,000. I know these numbers don’t exactly “add up”, but they are what Ford quoted.

My first hitch was an Andersen that I switched to a Blue Ox with 1500 lb. bars. Certified scale weights are shown here:

Unhitched: Steer 3,500, Drive 3,340
Andersen Hitch: Steer 3,120, Drive 4,900, Trailer 5,600
Blue Ox Hitch, 1,500 lb. bars, zero links showing: Steer 3,500, Drive 4,140, Trailer 5,860

As can be seen the drive axle was over loaded with either hitch. I could have lived with 100 lbs. over with the Blue Ox however the trailer ride was apparently smooth with the Andersen but I think the Blue Ox setup would have shaken it apart.

The Ford was a great truck but there just wasn’t enough of it. I traded for a 2016 GMC 2500 Duramax and reinstalled my Andersen hitch. Nothing is over loaded.

We have been to Alaska and back and throughout Newfoundland (the worst roads in Canada in my opinion) with this rig with no interior damage and minimal cargo rearrangement.

I still have a very slightly used Blue Ox for sale and I’m motivated to get it out of the garage.

[reverie room]

Thank you BillfromWI for the explanation! I am glad to hear you have a hitch that is working well for you. That story of the Alaskan caravan and all the banged up Airstreams is nuts! You seem very astute and have real numbers plus lots of experience to back up your choices... I for one am appreciative of you sharing your experience.

So, I made a decision... I will be joining you in your choice of the Andersen hitch.

I read a lot about the Andersen and it seems that it isn't for everyone but does seem particularly well suited for those in my circumstances who have a heavier TV and lighter TT where weight distribution is less an issue than sway control.

I am buying a used one from RandyNH and he has graciously offered to help me set it up. Price is right too. If it doesn't work out, the investment was minimal and I can go in a different direction but by then I will have many of the learning curve things under my belt and maybe able to take on an option described on here that currently has me bewildered because of my lack of experience.

I just want to thank everyone who wrote to me on here - what an incredible community. I am grateful for all you shared and for the education too.

[farafield]

Hi RR,

I am in the same "boat" as you with an F-150 and an '18 Sport 16! I would love to know exactly which andersen you de died to go with and how it is working for you.

Thanks and hope you're enjoying your Bambi!

Kim

[reverie room]

Hi Kim,
Very much enjoying the Bambi! Took it out this weekend. My only real trouble (and it’s REAL) is backing it up. I am definitely not getting the hang of it.

But that’s s different matter than what you asked about.

So, I purchased a used Andersen hitch, brought it with me to pick up the camper, the dealer said they’d help me out it on. Got there, and they said it was the wrong size ball. Fortunately they gave me a ball hitch, set it up to right drop, installed it, hooked me up to the camper and sent me on my way.

What they gave me is a normal hitch without weight distribution. I am fine with it. I literally cannot even feel the trailer behind me, and backing up to it, and hooking my truck up to get on the road could not be easier.

So, after the big outlay of thought and energy to determine what to do, I’ve got a regular old ball hitch.

I’ve got the Andersen for sale, same price I paid for it, $150, if anyone’s in Massachusetts area and interested. LMK

Good luck Kim!

[SCOTTinNJ]

Originally Posted by reverie room

Hi Kim,
Very much enjoying the Bambi! Took it out this weekend. My only real trouble (and it’s REAL) is backing it up. I am definitely not getting the hang of it.

Not sure what technique you were using but try to put your hands on the bottom of the steering wheel when you back up, not the top. Then turn the wheel in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go.


Go slow, take your time, and get out and check often if you need to.


BTW, 16' trailer is probably the toughest Airstream to back up straight. The longer the trailer the less each wheel input changes the attitude.

[Silvr_Bullet]

What works for me is try and start off straight with the trailer and TV. Pull forward often, hand at bottom of steering wheel, small corrections but often. Even if your traveling with someone get out and survey the area, I do probably 4 more if I am not sure. Try not to be nervous. I find the rear view camera not all that helpful, that’s just me! I’ll echo ScottinNJ

[farafield]

Hi RR,

I was initially interested in your post not just because of your set up but also because I am a single woman, probably a bit older than you as my kids have flown the coop!

I have been "punting" as another member called it in ignorant bliss with no problems but I drive slowly and am not--yet--going on long distance cruises. I called a local trailer company I have faith in and they recommend sway control and the Husky, a friction system, in particular. I will grill them on damage control and perhaps there are times when I turn off the sway as it will not be as important as keeping the AS intact?

As for backing up, I have years of experience having hauled horses and now a honey wagon for disposing of said horses' by-product. Time, time, time. That's really what it is. There are a few tricks, like holding your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel but really it's just getting used to the feeling and your rig. Just don't worry about other people watching you! If they haven't towed, they don't know what they're talking about and if they have, they know the learning curve!

Have a great time!

p.s. I 've had fun making a few mods to my Bambi (Bramble is her name). A bit improvement was buying orange film to put in the lights so they aren't so much like an operating room. A huge improvement!

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by reverie room

Hi Kim,
Very much enjoying the Bambi! Took it out this weekend. My only real trouble (and it’s REAL) is backing it up. I am definitely not getting the hang of it.

Good luck Kim!

Kim,

How’s the mirrors on your tow vehicle? And if your mirrors are power adj use that to help you, turn the mirror to show you something besides the side of the trailer while backing.

Being able to see down the side better can be a big help. Maybe get two or more big enough to be seen traffic cones and use them as targets while backing up. Put them where you want the trailer to go or not to go. Having a real target can help plus a bit of in stressed parking lot practice.

Gary

[BillfromWI]

farafield,

You will see my exchange with RR somewhere in this thread.

I tow a 2014 FC25FB with a GMC 2500 and an Andersen. I like the Andersen because it is light and clean--no grease. The tongue weight of my trailer is 1,252 lbs. Andersen sway control uses a cone-shaped extension under the ball (machined as part of the ball) that fits into a cone-shaped hole that is lined with "brake material". Greater tongue weight yields greater turning resistance. For me this provides flawless tracking under all conditions (like 60 mph winds in Newfoundland) but my truck weighs 8,000 lbs. empty and 1,252 is a lot of tongue weight. Your results may vary.

Good luck!

[Jimroll]

Kim

Do you notice any trailer sway with only the ball hitch? I am in a similar position , my TV is a 2018 F150 and I am towing a 1962 Safari 22' that weighs 3200 lbs with a 450lb. tongue weight, well within the capability of the truck. I am more concerned about trailer sway than weight distribution.

Thanks
Jim

[RandyNH]

Jim,

She isn't ignoring you, I don't believe she has the trailer anymore, I remember seeing her post it for sale, lack of use.

[farafield]

I'm not sure but I think at some point people confused me with the OP on this thread. I am farafield/Kim and I definitely still have Bramble! Jim, I had no problems with sway on my 16' with my F-150 and I did drive on the highway in a blustery rainstorm earlier this summer. That being said, after reading some horror stories here I did get one sway bar. I do not drive fast and I was driving pretty locally on smaller roads. But if one was going to head west on any of those big highways, I think sway control would be a good idea. Like you, I am not really concerned with weight dist. although many here will say to do it all. If and when I go on my "big trip" I may add the WD just to be on the safe side.

[ROBERT CROSS]

The ongoing debate about do I or don't I need to do something that will improve towing safety and ease of operation is a bit puzzling.
A light, single axle AS is more prone to sway, a balanced rig makes for a more comfortable trip.
We spend the $$$$ for any size AS, it would make sense to spend a commensurate amount for the safety of you & yours and your fellow travelers
.
You don't need to go overboard, just match what is necessary with what you have.

Disclaimer...I towed a 22' Safari for 18yrs with a Reese Pro style hitch, friction sway and 800lb WD bars.

Pre-forums... it's amazing I got thru it unscathed. 😂

Sweet Streams...

Bob
🇺🇸

[RandyNH]

Originally Posted by farafield

I'm not sure but I think at some point people confused me with the OP on this thread..

Sorry, I was referring to the OP

[Jimroll]

My hesitation is because I am used to towing with a simple ball hitch. Easy to hitch and unhitch. I was towing a 2400 lb. 18 foot trailer with a Honda Ridgeline, never had a problem with sway. However, it was not nearly as tall as the Safari therefore less side surface area. The Ford is new with less than 1000 miles so I have only towed the AS a small distance locally. I guess it is not so much a hesitation issue, but more of an ignorance issue.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Jim,

Your AS is the same as our first.

We used this hitch...the only upgrade was a second friction bar. I won't say the added bar added much except peace of mind.🥴


Point being...it doesn't have to fancy or expensive.
Buy a quality brand and most important...set it up correctly.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Jimroll]

Thanks Bob. I'll look into it.