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Old 11-29-2010, 07:56 PM   #15
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Thanks for the replies. No, I did not measure with a caliper.
The problem PJohnson referenced was a 1 inch nut. I put a measure tape on it, and it measure a bit less than 3/4, so though it may not be 0.72, it was not 1".

I am in process of calling Reese about it. Dropping bars is a good idea for sharp backing turns (no we did not back 49,000 miles but it feels like 49,000 times)
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:34 PM   #16
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Hank,

Does your ball have a 1" shank or a 1 1/4" shank? If it is the 1 1/4" shank, what is the brand or more specifically, where does one get a jam nut (or ball with a jam nut) that is a bit less than 3/4" thick?

BTW I still think that dropping the bars before backing into a parking space is a pain in the a**.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:00 PM   #17
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Reading the posts carefully, I can't say any more about jam nuts. I think I was misinterpreting the definition. I was measuring the nut on the sway control.
I don't have the trailer hitch here now, so can't measure the jam nut on the ball, but I will in January. I guess a too-long jam nut on the ball could stop one of the trunnion arms from turning, which may then bend the sway bar.
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Old 12-09-2010, 03:33 PM   #18
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I think you can discount any consideration of the ball shank or the nut on it as you would have to rotate the sway control arm at least 120 degrees forward from it in line driving position to ever have it come in contact with the bar. That contact would be the result of a major accident and would have bent the bolt inward to the tongue.

Hook up the trailer with your one remaining bar and back up into a tight turn with the bar on the outside of the turn. You will see where the yoke body contacts the sway control arm. Continuing the turn beyond that point will bend the arm. Your picture shows the yoke and it's adjustable cam arm as being at near the longest adjustment. This produces a very shallow angle when the chains are pulled up and the system set for travel. This shallow angle increases the the likely-hood of contact between the arm and the yoke.

I would set the WD hitch up with a longer chain and increase that angle.

Yes this would mean a complete recalibration of the WD hitch but you would not have to re-drill the tongue of the trailer.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
I think you can discount any consideration of the ball shank or the nut on it as you would have to rotate the sway control arm at least 120 degrees forward from it in line driving position to ever have it come in contact with the bar. That contact would be the result of a major accident and would have bent the bolt inward to the tongue.
I hung up my trunnion bar on the ball nut backing into a tight space. Fortunately, I did not suffer any serious damage. That is when I contacted Reese about finding a replacement nut for the ball. They told me that they do not make a thin (0.72") nut, even though it is called for in the installation instructions, and that the solution was to drop the bars when backing into tight spaces.
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:38 PM   #20
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I think we need to define the type of hitch in question here. If it is a Draw Tight bent arm type it could be possible to hit the nut since the bars mount forward of the nut. If it is a Reese Straight Line or Duel Cam Trunnion type it is not possible to hit the nut since the trunnions mount to the rear of the nut. My comments have been directed to this type of hitch since the name Reese was originally noted in the thread.

Both type are now sold under the Reese name since Cequent Towing bought Reese.
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:53 PM   #21
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Round Bar

Is this interference a problem with the round bars and standard large 1 1/4 nuts?
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Old 12-19-2010, 02:17 PM   #22
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The first picture shows the bars as you are going straight. Note the clearance.

The second picture shows the bar as you back up in a tight turn. Note the fact that the bar has touched the yoke. Any additional turning would bend the adjustment bolt outwards from the yoke. This picture is of the inside bar only because I did not take one of the outside bar. This condition is worse with the outside bar in a turn because the bar can raise higher off the cam because of the longer tail to the rear of the bar. That length is a safety factor to keep the bar from dropping off the cam. But that is what causes the problem.

I ground material off the yoke to increase the clearance and thus reduce the point of contact.

The shallower the angle of the yoke to the frame the greater the likely hood of contacting the bar.

There is No way this type of hitch will ever contact the shank or shank nut unless you have buried the trailer in the back half of the TV. That a total of both the TV and the trailer.

As noted before I can not comment on the Draw Tight Round bar system because I do not have one to analyze at this time. But I suspect the same conditions will exist
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
I think we need to define the type of hitch in question here. If it is a Draw Tight bent arm type it could be possible to hit the nut since the bars mount forward of the nut. If it is a Reese Straight Line or Duel Cam Trunnion type it is not possible to hit the nut since the trunnions mount to the rear of the nut. My comments have been directed to this type of hitch since the name Reese was originally noted in the thread.

Both type are now sold under the Reese name since Cequent Towing bought Reese.
I have the Reese Strait-Line hitch with 1200 lb trunnion bars (66074) which consists of the Trunnion Bar Weight Distrubution Hitch (66022) and the Dual Cam HP Sway Control (26002). The center of the trunnion pin holes on the 66022 ball mount are approximately 1" forward (toward the the tow vehicle) of the center of the hole for the ball shank. Therefore, the trunnion can (and does) contact the ball jam nut for 2-5/16" balls with a 1-1/4" shank in tight turns.

NOTE: The last sentence in step 3 of INITIAL SET-UP (INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Trunnion Style Weight Distrubution Kits) reads, "A thin jam nut (.72" thick) should be used on standard ballmount to prevent interference with spring bar trunnion."
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:35 PM   #24
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Is this interference a problem with the round bars and standard large 1 1/4 nuts?
I do not have any experience with round bars but looking at the installation instructions, I could not find reference to a "thin jam nut." Furthermore, since the bars mount through the bottom of the ball mount and do not have trunnions (the part that the flat spring bars are mounted in) it appears that it is impossible for the round bars to contact the ball jam nut.

Hopefully, someone who has first hand knowledge about round bars can give you a more definitive answer.
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:19 PM   #25
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Maybe It's the photos, but with a minimum of 5 links of the chain in use, as per install. instructions, your yokes would be at a greater angle from the frame affording you more clearance.
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hshovic View Post
On our last trip in Colorado, I backed into a flat site on National Forest. I have done this many times (49,000 miles worth).
I had to back in at an angle, and the trailer went in fine. I did notice the trailer dipped a bit, when my front truck wheel went off the pavement (about 2 inches).
The wife was outside and did not hear or see anything unusual.
However, the next day, I did notice something unusual. Both the cam and the cam arm were bent! Of course the trunnion was then off
the cam bottom, and I could feel the trailer sway down the road.
We had it replaced in Colorado Springs, at a Camping World where they did it
quick and right. They also had never seen this before.
I emailed Reese about it, but no coherent answer so far.
Anyone else seen this?
Send this picture to Dan Miller (Dan's Hitches, Elkhart, Indiana) Dan has dealt with Reese nearly as long as Reese has been in business. He is probably the #1 hitch guy in the United States. I'm sure he could tell you why it happened and what to do to avoid it in the future.
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJohnson View Post
I do not have any experience with round bars but looking at the installation instructions, I could not find reference to a "thin jam nut." Furthermore, since the bars mount through the bottom of the ball mount and do not have trunnions (the part that the flat spring bars are mounted in) it appears that it is impossible for the round bars to contact the ball jam nut.

Hopefully, someone who has first hand knowledge about round bars can give you a more definitive answer.
I've been reading this with interest. I have the round bars, and there is no way they can contact the ball jam nut.
However, the problem Howie shows, with contact on the arm, can happen, and should be tested in a tight turn with an observer, then fix it like he did, before you damage them while backing in tight turns.
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:45 AM   #28
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Someone who often tell us he knows all there is to know about Reese Dual Cam hitches is suspicously absent from this thread.
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