Visit our Popular Forums

Steve Heywood · 10-04-2006, 04:48 PM

I'm replacing my worn out Eaz Lift with a Reese Strait-Line. Problem is I can't seem to match my current ball height (19 1/4" unloaded). Depending on the shank I'm either an inch lower or about 3/4" higher.

I was thinking that slightly lower might be better but I'm not sure I want to go that low.

Ideas, comments?

Thanks,

ticki2 · 10-04-2006, 05:10 PM

All the Reese adjustable shanks I've seen had 1" hole spacing , are yours 1 3/4" ?

LI Pets · 10-04-2006, 05:33 PM

When those heights are stated are they to the top middle ot bottom of the ball?

skykingpilot · 10-04-2006, 05:38 PM

If you have to go one way or another, I would recommend lower than higher. Still wtill want to assure that you are at least very close to level wither way. Having said that, being a touch low in front gives youa scooch of extra room btween bumper and ground. I have a SLIGHT nose down attitude and it works fine for me. When I say SLIGHT I do mean SLIGHT. I think i am no more than about 1/2 in low relative to optimum level. Still... gives me that margin on bumper. Kind of glad to have it to tell you the truth. Have not scrapped the bumper (but I am paranoid about such things so I am extremely careful). FWIW... I wouldn't worry.

mustang · 10-04-2006, 07:29 PM

I was always told and have used the 19 and a half measure from top of ball to ground I will also add a garage floor is sloped and will throw off the measurement. 19 1/2 has never done me wrong. Good luck

Steve Heywood · 10-04-2006, 09:44 PM

I always measure to the top of the ball.

The difference between the holes on a Reese shank are 1 1/4".

With my current ball height my trailer is SLIGHTLY nose high. I'd like to lower it about 1/2"

I bought a dropped shank because I didn't think that 1 1/4" of drop (the standard cast Reese shank) would be enough. I re-measured the dropped shank with the platform level and the drop is 1 7/8". I had previously measured it with the platform angled back and it was nearly 2 1/4". I ordered the standard cast shank last night. Between the 2 different shanks I'll get the ball height exactly where I want it.

When I look at the picture of my previous Reese Dual-Cam hitch (in my photos) the platform is nearly level.

ldetsf · 11-04-2006, 03:51 PM

I have a 91 25' Excella 1000 and AS told me the required ball height which I immediately wrote down and lost. I think it was 18+ or 19+ but don't remember. It's not the height shown with the current models. My vehcle ball height is 22 1/2" so I need to know what size drop shank to buy. Anyone know for sure? Thanks

jimmickle · 11-04-2006, 04:32 PM

I would suggest that you get the loaded trailer on a flat surface. Adjust the tongue jack so that the frame is the same distance from the flat surface front and rear. After you have done that, measure from the top of the coupler to the flat surface. That is coupler height. Reese says adjust the ball height to 1/2 to 1 inch higher than that dimension. Any dimension in a chart is only approximate. Trailer load, axle condition, etc. affect coupler height so actually measuring your unit is the best way to set up your hitch.

Note, the flat surface doesn't need to be level, just flat.

Jim

Pat370 · 11-04-2006, 05:51 PM

If you have Radial tires on your trailer then your ball highr should be 18 3/4 inches from the ground when unhooked.
Then adjust your lift bars up to be the same hight when hitched up on level ground. This is from the top of your ball.

Good luck,

Pat370

flyfisher · 11-04-2006, 06:18 PM

I guess your ball mount does not tilt backward like mine does on my Reese hitch?

I've had 2 Reese hitch heads and both were the tilt type, which helps achieve a level hook-up.

John

AlbertF · 11-04-2006, 06:23 PM

I would start on the high side with the ball vertical, and tip it back until the height is right. That should get you close, anyway.

This whole discussion demonstrates one of the advantages of the old weld-together ball mounts.

ldetsf · 11-05-2006, 02:06 AM

Got another question: If I use actual measurements, my ball height is 22 1/2" and the coupler height should be 19 1/2" if I remember correctly. So, if we assume that's correct, can I drive approximetly 1000 freeway miles with the trailer front raised accordingly and expect that I won't mess something up stupidly? The reason I'm contemplating this is that I'm driving to another state and pick up a proper hitch on the way. I have towed under the above conditions already for about 150 miles without incident. Look forward to your thoughts.

AlbertF · 11-05-2006, 04:58 AM

A neighbour brought my trailer home for me, and it was towed slightly nose-high because the hitch setup was done in less than ideal conditions with hand tools.

The tow vehicle was a later model Yukon XL. We had an appropriate amount of tension on the bars. It towed OK except there was a steady and predictable sway at speed that required extra clamping pressure on the friction control to (mostly) eliminate. Towing level, I am certain that the sway would have been non-existent. The rear tires also ran considerably hotter than the front. It was almost like we were towing a single axle trailer. (It's good that it had Load Range D tires inflated to maximum pressure, which is good for a rating of 2460 lbs per tire, enough to handle the about 4800 lbs empty weight.) We also towed 150 miles this way.

Unlike linked leaf spring axles, the rubber torsion axles are completely independent, and don't transfer any load between them. It is quite important to have the trailer close to level to avoid potential problems like mine.

dwightdi · 11-05-2006, 06:30 AM

All good advice here. The tire temperature will tell you alot about whether you have set up the rig properly on a dual or triple axle unit. Before you start to pull at sustained high speeds keep your tire pressures up and feel them frequently to see how they are bearing the load. You can easily sense as little as 5 degrees difference in the tire temperature. Also check the temperature of the individual wheel bearings. The proper setup of ball height and weight distribution bar settings will result in completely uniform temperatures in the trailer tire temperatures and wheel bearings. Go slow and listen to what the trailer is telling you.

Frank S · 11-05-2006, 04:57 PM

Hi--To check tire and hub temps, feel them with the back of your hand. If it is warm, you're OK. If it burns, you may have a problem.--Frank S

ldetsf · 11-07-2006, 04:53 PM

FYI, AS says that the ball height on my vehicle for my 91, 25' is 18 3/4".

Yooper · 03-27-2007, 04:23 PM

Great forum! I've found lots of answers to a bunch of my questions, but am unclear on whether the recommended hitch height on the tow vehicle is as she sits, before coupling, or after?

I would normally answer this question by trial and error, but my Bambi-to-be is sitting clear across the country and my tow vehicle is sitting in my yard in Michigan's western U.P. Hate to get all the way out to the east coast to pick her up and find out that what goes up must come down, and the spec is really talking about hitch height hooked up!

Would really appreciate some guidance from someone who may have a similar set up: Honda Ridgeline pickup and a '06 Bambi Safari, 16 footer. The unloaded Ridgeline sits with its receiver centerline 16" above the ground.

Thanks!

Dick

HowieE · 03-27-2007, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmickle

I would suggest that you get the loaded trailer on a flat surface. Adjust the tongue jack so that the frame is the same distance from the flat surface front and rear. After you have done that, measure from the top of the coupler to the flat surface. That is coupler height. Reese says adjust the ball height to 1/2 to 1 inch higher than that dimension. Any dimension in a chart is only approximate. Trailer load, axle condition, etc. affect coupler height so actually measuring your unit is the best way to set up your hitch.

Note, the flat surface doesn't need to be level, just flat.

The first thing I would tell you is to completely disregard any deminsions from charts as noted above. The only thing that governes your ball height is the coupling height while the trailer is sitting loaded and level. Airstream axles do not have any equalizing feature like the axles on most SOBs therefore you have to make sure the trailer is level while towing. Failure to ride level will result in one axle carring more weight than the other thus requireing different tire pressures.

Once you have determined the coupling height and considering you are driving a heavily sprund truck I would start with the ball about 1/2 in higher than the coupling height.

Before hooking up measure the trucks fender heights and mark them down. Hook up and remeasure the truck fender heights. The front fender should come down in about a 40/60 ratio to the rear fender. If the rear drops 1/2 in the front should come down about 3/8 in. If this is not the case readjust the hitch head back or forward to achieve this. Tilting the head back will cause more weight to be placed on the front axle of the truck and forward less weight on the front axle. Do not expect to hit it on the first shot. It can take several hours to get it. What you do not want is the front axle to come up when you are finished. This will result in problems of sway control.

Once you are done the trailer should ride level and your truck should see minimum sway .

Another thing to consider is your truck tire pressure. I am sure the door post on your truck as 80lbs. as the recomended tire pressure. That is way to high. Once you are happy with the hitch set up go to a truck scale and weigh the front axle and then both axles. Using the axle weights go on the web of your tire company and find the correct pressure for that load. My 2500 Sub ends up with 45 lbs. forward and 55 lbs. in the rear not the 80 lbs. the lawyers had printed on the door post. Over inflation while towing will add to sway problems.

jimmickle · 03-27-2007, 06:51 PM

If you are using a reese hitch, go to reeseprod.com and download hitch adjustment instructions. If you follow them you will be fine. You may want the dealer to measure coupler height as described above. Don't go by Airsttream numbers.

Yooper · 03-28-2007, 05:10 PM

Howie and Jim, thanks!

Howie, when I first read your advice I thought there was way too much information for my brain to process. By the 3rd read, I was understanding MOST of it. Here's what I am still having trouble with:

I think I understand that the hitch height has to be with the hitch/coupler connected, right? If so, for my goal of estimating the ball height I have to put weight on the back of my pickup that will approximate the tongue weight applied by the trailer, right? Okay, now enters my approach, taking into account my pickup is here and my Bambi to be is on the east coast. I'll call it the "two men on a truck" approach. So I get some friends whose total weight approximates published trailer tongue weights for my Bambi. That will bring the receiver closer to the ground and I can measure its centerline, under load, and establish one reference point. Following Jim's advice, I will then ask my seller to level the trailer and measure to the top of the coupler. Now I have two points of reference that gives me a simple task of buying the right receiver bar and ball combo to equalize.

Am I getting this, or am I "clueless in the U.P.?"

BTW, your discourse on differing the tire pressures between the front and rear tires of my tow vehicle was very interesting! But, before fine tuning, I have to get it home!

Thanks,

Dick