Ball Height Question

[Steve Heywood]

I'm replacing my worn out Eaz Lift with a Reese Strait-Line. Problem is I can't seem to match my current ball height (19 1/4" unloaded). Depending on the shank I'm either an inch lower or about 3/4" higher.

I was thinking that slightly lower might be better but I'm not sure I want to go that low.

Ideas, comments?

Thanks,

[ticki2]

All the Reese adjustable shanks I've seen had 1" hole spacing , are yours 1 3/4" ?

[LI Pets]

When those heights are stated are they to the top middle ot bottom of the ball?

[skykingpilot]

If you have to go one way or another, I would recommend lower than higher. Still wtill want to assure that you are at least very close to level wither way. Having said that, being a touch low in front gives youa scooch of extra room btween bumper and ground. I have a SLIGHT nose down attitude and it works fine for me. When I say SLIGHT I do mean SLIGHT. I think i am no more than about 1/2 in low relative to optimum level. Still... gives me that margin on bumper. Kind of glad to have it to tell you the truth. Have not scrapped the bumper (but I am paranoid about such things so I am extremely careful). FWIW... I wouldn't worry.

[mustang]

I was always told and have used the 19 and a half measure from top of ball to ground I will also add a garage floor is sloped and will throw off the measurement. 19 1/2 has never done me wrong. Good luck

[Steve Heywood]

I always measure to the top of the ball.

The difference between the holes on a Reese shank are 1 1/4".

With my current ball height my trailer is SLIGHTLY nose high. I'd like to lower it about 1/2"

I bought a dropped shank because I didn't think that 1 1/4" of drop (the standard cast Reese shank) would be enough. I re-measured the dropped shank with the platform level and the drop is 1 7/8". I had previously measured it with the platform angled back and it was nearly 2 1/4". I ordered the standard cast shank last night. Between the 2 different shanks I'll get the ball height exactly where I want it.

When I look at the picture of my previous Reese Dual-Cam hitch (in my photos) the platform is nearly level.

[ldetsf]

I have a 91 25' Excella 1000 and AS told me the required ball height which I immediately wrote down and lost. I think it was 18+ or 19+ but don't remember. It's not the height shown with the current models. My vehcle ball height is 22 1/2" so I need to know what size drop shank to buy. Anyone know for sure? Thanks

[jimmickle]

I would suggest that you get the loaded trailer on a flat surface. Adjust the tongue jack so that the frame is the same distance from the flat surface front and rear. After you have done that, measure from the top of the coupler to the flat surface. That is coupler height. Reese says adjust the ball height to 1/2 to 1 inch higher than that dimension. Any dimension in a chart is only approximate. Trailer load, axle condition, etc. affect coupler height so actually measuring your unit is the best way to set up your hitch.

Note, the flat surface doesn't need to be level, just flat.

Jim

[Pat370]

If you have Radial tires on your trailer then your ball highr should be 18 3/4 inches from the ground when unhooked.
Then adjust your lift bars up to be the same hight when hitched up on level ground. This is from the top of your ball.

Good luck,

Pat370

[flyfisher]

I guess your ball mount does not tilt backward like mine does on my Reese hitch?

I've had 2 Reese hitch heads and both were the tilt type, which helps achieve a level hook-up.

John

[AlbertF]

I would start on the high side with the ball vertical, and tip it back until the height is right. That should get you close, anyway.

This whole discussion demonstrates one of the advantages of the old weld-together ball mounts.

[ldetsf]

Got another question: If I use actual measurements, my ball height is 22 1/2" and the coupler height should be 19 1/2" if I remember correctly. So, if we assume that's correct, can I drive approximetly 1000 freeway miles with the trailer front raised accordingly and expect that I won't mess something up stupidly? The reason I'm contemplating this is that I'm driving to another state and pick up a proper hitch on the way. I have towed under the above conditions already for about 150 miles without incident. Look forward to your thoughts.

[AlbertF]

A neighbour brought my trailer home for me, and it was towed slightly nose-high because the hitch setup was done in less than ideal conditions with hand tools.

The tow vehicle was a later model Yukon XL. We had an appropriate amount of tension on the bars. It towed OK except there was a steady and predictable sway at speed that required extra clamping pressure on the friction control to (mostly) eliminate. Towing level, I am certain that the sway would have been non-existent. The rear tires also ran considerably hotter than the front. It was almost like we were towing a single axle trailer. (It's good that it had Load Range D tires inflated to maximum pressure, which is good for a rating of 2460 lbs per tire, enough to handle the about 4800 lbs empty weight.) We also towed 150 miles this way.

Unlike linked leaf spring axles, the rubber torsion axles are completely independent, and don't transfer any load between them. It is quite important to have the trailer close to level to avoid potential problems like mine.

[dwightdi]

All good advice here. The tire temperature will tell you alot about whether you have set up the rig properly on a dual or triple axle unit. Before you start to pull at sustained high speeds keep your tire pressures up and feel them frequently to see how they are bearing the load. You can easily sense as little as 5 degrees difference in the tire temperature. Also check the temperature of the individual wheel bearings. The proper setup of ball height and weight distribution bar settings will result in completely uniform temperatures in the trailer tire temperatures and wheel bearings. Go slow and listen to what the trailer is telling you.