Ball and hitch popping

[dlenloe]

We just picked up our airstream yesterday and there is a terrible popping when making a turn. It does sound like it is the ball popping in the hitch casing. Is that normal?

[SSquared]

What brand of weight distribution hitch do you have? Some brands are quiet. Equalizer is known for making noises when turning. I have an EAZ Lift Elite with two friction bars. The friction bars are noisy.

[HowieE]

Reese Dual Cam hitches make noise.

You can also sometimes hear popping on acceleration and deceleration if the shank to receiver opening is sloppy.

What are you using, WD or Ball only hitch?

Picture would be helpful.

[dlenloe]

Originally Posted by SSquared

What brand of weight distribution hitch do you have? Some brands are quiet. Equalizer is known for making noises when turning. I have an EAZ Lift Elite with two friction bars. The friction bars are noisy.

I have a Recurve 6 with the bars coming over the top rather than below like the Equalizer.

[dlenloe]

Originally Posted by HowieE

Reese Dual Cam hitches make noise.

You can also sometimes hear popping on acceleration and deceleration if the shank to receiver opening is sloppy.

What are you using, WD or Ball only hitch?

Picture would be helpful.

Since I am new at this, does WD mean weight distribution hitch? I have the Recurve 6. The dealership said it is the bars making the noise but it does look like the bars are stressed when turning. I have watched them operate while one of us drives.

[kb0zke]

Since this is a new set-up, check all adjustments and make sure that all is at proper tightness. For example, is the nut on the bottom of the ball tight? Are all mounting brackets, bolts, etc. tight? A bit of lubricant on the ball can help, too.

[m.hony]

Grease them.

[djarrett]

Popping is pretty normal with most weight distribution hitches. Makes my wife's skin crawl.

[SSquared]

Originally Posted by dlenloe

I have a Recurve 6 with the bars coming over the top rather than below like the Equalizer.

I have never seen one of those in person. They seem pretty slick. On the Camco web page, I notice that they claim the product has "reduced noise". Not "eliminated". So you should expect some noise.

The product has a way to turn off sway control. Did your dealer explain that to you? You could try turning it off while doing some tight maneuvers in a parking lot to see if the noise goes away. It that cures the noise, that means the noise comes from the sway control and the rest of the hitch is OK. I'm not sure, but I would expect the sway control to be noisy (friction-type sway controls are usually noisy)

[GammaDog]

Ditto m.hony's advice. I have an Equal-I-zer and without grease it could get me banned from most campgrounds as a nuisance. Read your manufacturer's info on where it can be greased to make sure you don't interfere with the function. They may even sell pads like equalizer does to allow proper but quiet operation.

[dlenloe]

Originally Posted by SSquared

I have never seen one of those in person. They seem pretty slick. On the Camco web page, I notice that they claim the product has "reduced noise". Not "eliminated". So you should expect some noise.

The product has a way to turn off sway control. Did your dealer explain that to you? You could try turning it off while doing some tight maneuvers in a parking lot to see if the noise goes away. It that cures the noise, that means the noise comes from the sway control and the rest of the hitch is OK. I'm not sure, but I would expect the sway control to be noisy (friction-type sway controls are usually noisy)

Yes, the dealer did explain how to turn off the sway bars mechanism. Will try that. Thanks so much for your input.

[dlenloe]

Originally Posted by GammaDog

Ditto m.hony's advice. I have an Equal-I-zer and without grease it could get me banned from most campgrounds as a nuisance. Read your manufacturer's info on where it can be greased to make sure you don't interfere with the function. They may even sell pads like equalizer does to allow proper but quiet operation.

I do not know if pads are available for the Recurve but I will certainly look into that. I do appreciate your info.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by SSquared

What brand of weight distribution hitch do you have? Some brands are quiet. Equalizer is known for making noises when turning. I have an EAZ Lift Elite with two friction bars. The friction bars are noisy.

Mine too, but they work!

[short stuff]

Have you tried lubricating the ball and where the bars attach to the hitch? Mine did the same thing when I picked mine up and scared me and my wife to death. I got out and lubed it up and it went away. Good luck I hope this will solve the problem

[Silver Pony]

some grease and a little more volume on the radio and the noise will go away

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by kb0zke

Since this is a new set-up, check all adjustments and make sure that all is at proper tightness. For example, is the nut on the bottom of the ball tight? Are all mounting brackets, bolts, etc. tight? A bit of lubricant on the ball can help, too.

EXACTLY.
And "proper tightness" means to Mfr's spec, not "Heart Attack Blue plus a Quarter'!
Tell the so called 'mechanics' to shove their 'zip guns' up where the sun don't shine, followed by those goofball 'Torxstixs'.
Use a calibrated torque wrench, on dry threads unless otherwise specified. (such as below)

FYI:
If your ball has the 1-1/2" shank, your spec will probably call for 450 ft. lb. torque; well above what a 1/2" drive wrench rated for 250 will give you. However........
Lubricate the threads and the nut face with Extreme pressure Lube, such as C-5 Colloidal Copper, Never Seize, or similar.

Reduce the torque by 40%, which will give you 270 ft. lb ; which will give you the tension of 450 dry. (source: Premier Fastener Corp.)
250 Ft. lb. is close enough. That ball ain't goin' nowhere.

By the way, to prevent hitch rattle from the 'slop'; I measured the play at .064".
Using some .060" steel strapping, I made two shims, one with a 5/8" hole for the pin, and use them between the shank, and the receiver.
I also grease them to prevent rust, and wear.
My hitch does not rattle at all.
(When I torqued my ball, I had to sit on the ground, put my foot on the bumper, to prevent me from sliding under the car from the reaction.)

And that's all for now, 'Sports Fans'!


Look after your equipment, it will look after you.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by melgoddard

exactly.
And "proper tightness" means to mfr's spec, not "heart attack blue plus a quarter'!
Tell the so called 'mechanics' to shove their 'zip guns' up where the sun don't shine, followed by those goofball 'torxstixs'.
Use a calibrated torque wrench, on dry threads unless otherwise specified. (such as below)

fyi:
If your ball has the 1-1/2" shank, your spec will probably call for 450 ft. Lb. Torque; well above what a 1/2" drive wrench rated for 250 will give you. However........
Lubricate the threads and the nut face with extreme pressure lube, such as c-5 colloidal copper, never seize, or similar.

Reduce the torque by 40%, which will give you 270 ft. Lb ; which will give you the tension of 450 dry. (source: Premier fastener corp.)
250 ft. Lb. Is close enough. That ball ain't goin' nowhere.

By the way, to prevent hitch rattle from the 'slop'; i measured the play at .064".
Using some .060" steel strapping, i made two shims, one with a 5/8" hole for the pin, and use them between the shank, and the receiver.
I also grease them to prevent rust, and wear.
My hitch does not rattle at all.
(when i torqued my ball, i had to sit on the ground, put my foot on the bumper, to prevent me from sliding under the car from the reaction.)

later; if i did this right, the photos of the shims should appear somewhere here.

And that's all for now, 'sports fans'!


Look after your equipment, it will look after you.

[Gypsydoc81]

We have an Equalizer and they recommend lubricating before each trip. Instead of grease I use spray garage door lubricant. I work the arms back and forth several times before attaching them to the AS. It has eliminated all noise and not as messy.

[xrvr]

Does that also eliminate the sway control action? There should be friction. Am I wrong.?

[bel73]

Originally Posted by dlenloe

I have a Recurve 6 with the bars coming over the top rather than below like the Equalizer.

Did you get the noise figured out? We have the same hitch. Been super quiet for us.

The only thing you need to grease is the pivot on the head (where the grease zerk is) and a little on the bearings for the sway control. No need to grease the arms, they do not move. A little on the hitch ball also.

Make sure when you snap the arms in that they are really locked in. Made that mistake ONCE. Scared the hell out of me when I realized it wasn't locked and under load.