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Old 08-19-2013, 07:10 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by tesstoaster View Post
How about we just confirm, no guarantee, that Rendrag does not know if the Andersen hitch has the potential to damage the Marvel MC883 coupler and leave it at that.
There is no way Rendrag, or anyone else can confirm the suitability of your coupler without a lot more information. Is it rusty? Has it been exposed to salt and corrosion? Has it been overloaded? Are parts missing? I hope someone gives you the assurance you are yearning for. Good luck with that.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #16
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Thanks Twinkie, that what I was looking for. It seems the sharkfin is the key to potential problems. BTW, I am not a prospective Andersen buyer...I bought one about a 1.5 years ago but have not used it as I am completing a major rebuild of my 1972 Tradewind, including rear frame and bathroom rebuild. I will be posting pictures soon. Some may be interested in a design that effectively maintained the wet bath geometry, but has dramatically improved the aesthetics.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Rendrag View Post
There is no way Rendrag, or anyone else can confirm the suitability of your coupler without a lot more information. Is it rusty? Has it been exposed to salt and corrosion? Has it been overloaded? Are parts missing? I hope someone gives you the assurance you are yearning for. Good luck with that.
Although Rendrag may not be able to analyze the design characteristics, and possible design flaw, of a coupler, there are many knowledgeable forum members with the engineering skills to make such an assessment I would venture to guess. Without myself understanding the design differences between an older Marvel vs newer Marvel/Attwood coupler other than the sharkfin component, there obviously are some inherent differences given the findings of forum members when using the Andersen hitch.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:52 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by tesstoaster View Post
Although Rendrag may not be able to analyze the design characteristics, and possible design flaw, of a coupler, there are many knowledgeable forum members with the engineering skills to make such an assessment I would venture to guess. Without myself understanding the design differences between an older Marvel vs newer Marvel/Attwood coupler other than the sharkfin component, there obviously are some inherent differences given the findings of forum members when using the Andersen hitch.
Why not get a modern coupler that is "confirmed" to be good with the Andersen hitch, although something tells me you are going to be disappointed with the hitch anyway.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:13 AM   #19
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Question posed to Atwood " how much movement should one feel/expect in an Atwood shark fin coupler?

"Take to Atwood service facility for check."

I ask since I bought a new ball and tried this. Clean coupler, insert ball and latch closed. Look for up , down, left/right, fore/aft movement. I get what feels like 1/4" of movement but cannt dislodge ball by hand. No binds.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:55 AM   #20
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I read with interest discussions concerning the effect of no sway hitches on the couplers, reference the Anderson Hitch thread, the last page.

I am installing a ProPride no sway hitch. The thing weighs 200 pounds or more. I hung it on my coupler and got worried about the vertical movement, or slop, I observed. I then placed a new 2 5/16 ball in my old coupler and measured a full 5/16 of an inch vertical movement of the ball when latched.

I got underneath and looked up at the coupler. I thought I saw similar wear that was photographed in the Anderson hitch thread. My 27 year old couipler has always had a Reese hitch in it. My Airstream has over a 100,000 towed miles.

So I ordered a new Atwood ball retainer shoe and installed it today. Using the same new 2 5/16 ball, I measured the verticle movement at 2/16 of an inch when latched. It "feels" much tighter than the old shoe, and I think better able to handle that 200 pound plus ProPride hitch head.

We talk about the bouncing we get on wavy pavement. I can imagine the hammering this ball retainer shoe gets from all that action. Keep your safety chains and hooks in good shape. Couplers wear and they are not easy to replace. I have a new coupler on my list of upgrades. It's a big weld shop ordeal to replace it.

On my coupler, the ball retainer shoe "slides" up and down a "ramp". When you lift the latch lever, it pulls the ball retainer shoe up and back so the ball will fall out of the coupler. When you lower the coupler on the hitch ball and snap the latch down, the ball shoe retainer "cams" down and forward into the lower portion of the ball keeping it from falling out.

I'll post some pictures of old and new later.

David
Hi, this is the original post about COUPLERS; This is not another ANDERSEN thread and there are two posters that are playing push & shove. Can we keep this on topic or do we need a moderator to step in?
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:00 AM   #21
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Hi, this is the original post about COUPLERS; This is not another ANDERSEN thread and there are two posters that are playing push & shove. Can we keep this on topic or do we need a moderator to step in?
No moderator needed for me. I got caught up in a foolish argument and I apologize for wasting anyone's time. I do not own a Marvel coupler, but do own an Andersen hitch, which is not what this is supposed to be about.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:00 AM   #22
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My mistake for keeping Andersen referenced in the thread. The first three posts mentioned Andersen, then the OP stepped in to redirect the thread. My post should have been posted in the gargantuan Andersen thread. My apologies.
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