Anyone Experienced A Bent Shank Pin

[SteveSueMac]

David - have you talked with Sean about the 2.5" option?

[RickDavis]

Going back and looking at the picture in the first post I am having trouble picturing a 5/8 pin developing a curve like that when it is going through a 5/8 hole in a solid bar.
I am assuming of course that the hitch shank on a pro pride is a solid bar?
I can picture shearing action , but not a curved pin.

I have towed several 34 ft Airstreams cross country and parks model as long as 38 feet with never a hitch problem but that was the standard 2 inch receiver
When you solve it I will be interested in what the answer is..
We are taking our somewhat smaller trailer out for a few thousand miles and will be watching the pin in the 2.5 inch receiver closely.
Please keep posting what you find
I assume you have discussed this with Propride?

[dbj216]

Thanks again for all your advice and suggestions. It helps as I try to figure out what is going on. Two heads are better than one.

I have communicated with Propride and they responded immediately as usual. They suggest the 2.5 receiver tube with the 2' reducer is creating more slop than usual. They were not concerned the shank pin would fail. It would just bend until it found solid steel to support itself.

Here is a picture of the stainless steel pin with 350 miles on it. The pictures are difficult, but maybe you can see the darker distressed areas. There are two on the "top" toward the ends of the pin, and one on the bottom, kinda in the center. Maybe the steel properties of the stainless steel pin are better than the first two I have bent. Time will tell. I don't like the 45 degree kink in this pin, but it was what was available in the store. You can see how the bend area does work against the outside of the receiver hole. I see some displaced metal on my receiver due to this 45 degree bend.

I can see a 2.5 inch Propride "draw bar", or welding a good sleeve reducer to the Propride draw bar would eliminate some of the slop. I won't alter a Propride part without their blessing. I'm no hitch engineer!

It appears the Propride yoke keeps the hitch head from rotating, but I'm not sure on this. How can the hitch rotate without a lot of torque on the receiver.

David

[Ridgerunner3]

I have a 2.5" receiver with the reducer. 2" propride hitch. 2012 chevy 2500 crew cab. 2002 Safari 25. No problem with pen. Holes in receiver and reducer are round. Miles on truck / P3 setup are greater than 5000.

Let us all know when you figure this out.

[crispyboy]

There must be enough slop in the shank than when you hit a bridge abutment or rough road there must be a shearing effect with the hitch movement.

The factory OEM receiver (2") that came on my pickup is very sloppy. The hole where the pin slides through was starting to elongate. I could also hear noise from the hitch going over rough roads.
I finally placed some welds on the Hensley stinger 2 years ago to tighten up the fit. Since then the noise has quit and the holes have not elongated any more. The downside to this is the stinger won't fit in other vehicles receiver.
If it were me I would concentrate on getting rid of the slop. Unless you need the 2.5" receiver opening I would weld in the sleeve or consider a different 2" class 5 receiver.

[dbj216]

Okay, 250 miles today on rough and hilly Idaho 95 to Lewiston. We are at Hells Gate State Park. Lousy name, very nice park along the Snake River. The Missoula KOA is very nice also.

The stanless steel pin by Master Lock remains straight after about 600 miles of towing.

CORRECTION: I reported I could not twist, or rotate my Propide hitch with the spring bars loose. This is not correct. I did not think of the fact that the Propride hitch weighs quite a bit, forcing the ball to the bottom of the socket. Secondly, if I move the spring bars out, the hitch is freer to twist, or rotate on the ball. So it is not a rigid as I thought. Study and learn.

This morning I measured the stainless steel pin at .624 diameter. I measured the Ford receiver hole at .680, the receiver sleeve hole at 6.75, and the Propride through hole at .680. So there is a good .050 slop between the pin and the holes.

I measured the Ford receiver square opening at 2.53, the reducer sleeve outside at 2.50 giving .070 slop. I measured the reducer sleeve inside at 2.07 and the Propride square shank at 2.00 giving another .070 slop. That is .140 of slop. Enough slop to make a good sandwich!

When I twist, or rotate the hitch when pinned to the Ford, the pin stops the rotation, not the squares. Makes sense as there is more slop in the squares. I think this explains how my shank pin gets bent. The corners of the squares are working the pin hard in a localized spot, and the pin has room to deflect.

My next action will take the slop out of the assembly with either a Propride 2.5 shank, or a sleeve reducer welded to the Propride. I hate to loose my V-5 Ford 2.5" receiver and it is specifically labeled NOT to alter it in anyway. Chances are Propride feels the same way.

I would also benefit from a custom shank pin made to .650 diameter or so with a nice lead in cone on one end for easier alignment. This would also reduce the slop in the assembly.

You forum participants are quite helpful. You suggested a higher quality shank pin, eliminating the reducer sleeve, and getting the slop out of the assembly. It seems to me these actions will reduce the chance of a bent and possibly failing shank pin.

I'm gonna keep inspecting this shank pin for safety's sake.

David

[zeke07]

Just a thought but I had the same "slop" problem with my 2.5" Ford receiver. Elongated the holes in no time at all. Purchased an Anderson aluminum reducer sleeve and it fit TIGHT. Had to bump it in with a hammer. 20K miles of towing all sorts of trailers with no noticeable wear.
Good luck
Bruce

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by dbj216

Okay, 250 miles today on rough and hilly Idaho 95 to Lewiston. We are at Hells Gate State Park. Lousy name, very nice park along the Snake River. The Missoula KOA is very nice also.

The stanless steel pin by Master Lock remains straight after about 600 miles of towing.

CORRECTION: I reported I could not twist, or rotate my Propide hitch with the spring bars loose. This is not correct. I did not think of the fact that the Propride hitch weighs quite a bit, forcing the ball to the bottom of the socket. Secondly, if I move the spring bars out, the hitch is freer to twist, or rotate on the ball. So it is not a rigid as I thought. Study and learn.

This morning I measured the stainless steel pin at .624 diameter. I measured the Ford receiver hole at .680, the receiver sleeve hole at 6.75, and the Propride through hole at .680. So there is a good .050 slop between the pin and the holes.

I measured the Ford receiver square opening at 2.53, the reducer sleeve outside at 2.50 giving .070 slop. I measured the reducer sleeve inside at 2.07 and the Propride square shank at 2.00 giving another .070 slop. That is .140 of slop. Enough slop to make a good sandwich!

When I twist, or rotate the hitch when pinned to the Ford, the pin stops the rotation, not the squares. Makes sense as there is more slop in the squares. I think this explains how my shank pin gets bent. The corners of the squares are working the pin hard in a localized spot, and the pin has room to deflect.

My next action will take the slop out of the assembly with either a Propride 2.5 shank, or a sleeve reducer welded to the Propride. I hate to loose my V-5 Ford 2.5" receiver and it is specifically labeled NOT to alter it in anyway. Chances are Propride feels the same way.

I would also benefit from a custom shank pin made to .650 diameter or so with a nice lead in cone on one end for easier alignment. This would also reduce the slop in the assembly.

You forum participants are quite helpful. You suggested a higher quality shank pin, eliminating the reducer sleeve, and getting the slop out of the assembly. It seems to me these actions will reduce the chance of a bent and possibly failing shank pin.

I'm gonna keep inspecting this shank pin for safety's sake.

David

Our AS stinger fit's well.
Boat trailer stinger....not so much.
Ordered one of these to take up the slack...works very well, no more movement or noise over bumps. Yes it is upside down...just easier to tighten with the cordless.

Just a thought.

Bob

[dbj216]

I've got another 250 miles towing today with the Master stainless steel pin and no obvious bends or wear. Maybe I had junk steel shank pins that bent. I hate thinking about my 8000 pound trailer and my 8000 pound truck connected with a piece of junk steel 5/8" diameter pin, even if it is in sheer. Because of all the slop, it sees bending loads too.

Thanks for your suggestion Robert. And the Anderson aluminum sleeve idea looks promising too for eliminating some of the slop between receiver and 2" Propride.

We are parked along the Columbia River in Boardman, OR. Pretty river, but the terrain not so much. Hot, windy, barren.

The Propride pulls the Airstream nicely. It is a very nice hitch.

David

[mefly2]

That does not look like a receiver shank pin ... we used pins like that on our snow plow. Try a new "hardened" pin and see if that takes care of the problem. A welder can put a bead on your oval hole and then you can round it with a file (likely it will be too hard to drill after welding). But you will still need to address the "slop" in adapter to receiver fit. Drill a small secondary hole to fit a locating bolt to keep your adapter in position if you don't want to have it welded in place...do you really need the larger capacity (pintle, or...)?

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by dbj216

I want to tow safely. I need to find a solution to all the stress I see on my shank pin. If I am the only guy in the world with bent shank pins, then I need to find the cause and correct it. I was hoping someone else had already solved this problem

David

Hi, I bought my new trailer in Oregon and towed it home to Southern California. On this one way trip home my Master-Lock shank lock was bent. I decided that the reason it was bent was because it was a dual purpose lock with a sleeve on a 1/2" shaft to make it fit a 5/8" hole. I replaced it with a one piece solid 5/8" lock and have been OK for almost nine years now. Not related to your story, but you aren't the only one with a bent hitch pin/lock.

[Florida 55]

Originally Posted by dbj216

I'm hitching up for a 4 week trip out west. I noticed my shank pin was quite bent. I'm concerned.

I have a new F350 Super Duty and a new ProPride hitch. I have towed about 3000 miles with this set up and like it. I have the 1400 lbs weight distribution bars cranked up 7" measured from the base of the BAL jacks. My fender well measurements and weight scale readings are reasonable.

The direction of the bend is verticle based on the way I position my shank pin. It is as if there is a huge upward force on the shank pin causing it to bend.

The F350s come with a Cat V hitch receiver and a sleeve reducing it from 2.5 inches down to the 2 inch Cat IV. The sleeve has a 11/16 by 7/8 oval hole in it meaning the 9/16 diameter shank pin does not touch the sleeve. So the weight distribution force is supported by the outer holes in the hitch receiver.

I don't like the oval hole in the Ford sleeve reducer. It creates a 2.5 inch distance between support areas for the shank pin. I wonder if anyone else has discovered this unusual wear?

David

To reduce the slop using the Ford reducer with my factory class V hitch (2011 F-250) I wrapped a piece of black duct tape around the reducer. Since then it has fit snug with no slop.

[dbj216]

Missoula is a very nice city. The KOA there is awsome. The Lolo canyon wildfile is not so neat. We had to tow around the fire as hiway 12 was closed. All of our towing so far has been into a strong west headwind. My luck. Averaging 12 mpg.

Doing some checking I find 1020 low carbon steel yield stress is 50,000 lbs. Assuming the 5/8 (.625) diameter pin is supported only by the Ford receiver holes, it would take only a 2000 pound load applied to the center of it to deflect the pin spanning 2.5 inches. I believe the deflection is happening while the hitch assembly rotates, or twists when I go up an entrance ramp, say to a fuel station. The only thing stopping the rotation is the pin due to all the slop in the assembly (big holes = .050 slop, large clearances in the reducer sleeve = .140 slop.) I find the pin is bent upward according to how I install the pin in my hitch. The loaded spring bars keeps the pin from changing position after I hitch up.

Certainly angle rotation, and pulling from a stop, or pulling up a hill puts a big load on the shank pin. Low grade steel and lots of slop caused my pin to bend. The new Master stainless steel pin after 900 miles of towing is straight. I think straight is better than bent!

Cold rolled steel is 90,000 psi, and hardened steel is 200,000 psi yield stress. These are much stronger materials than 1020 hot rolled at 50,000 psi. Better steel makes a much stronger pin. When I get home I'm going to buy the strongest pin I can find, or I'm going to make one.

We are camped in the Columbia River Gorge. Cascade mountains are beautiful. Mayibe Mt. Hood tomorrow.

David

[cwf]

Sounds strange, but I would prefer a bent pin over apparent shear as "hardened" can be "brittle... A softer pin can take a few deflections. The harder pin, if brittle, may appear to have sheared.

[dbj216]

I examined the stainless steel shank pin tonight and it is starting to bend. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

The draw bar fits sloppy in the receiver. I can wiggle it in all directions, and the shank pin is what stops the wiggle. I pull with a no sway type hitch with 1400 pound bars. There is a bunch of lift through the receiver. The pin is bent in the upward direction based on how I install the pin in the receiver. The stainless steel pin is the 3rd one displaying deflection in abouit 7000 miles of towing.

Something bad is going on.

David

[eheffa]

Originally Posted by dbj216

I examined the stainless steel shank pin tonight and it is starting to bend. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

The draw bar fits sloppy in the receiver. I can wiggle it in all directions, and the shank pin is what stops the wiggle. I pull with a no sway type hitch with 1400 pound bars. There is a bunch of lift through the receiver. The pin is bent in the upward direction based on how I install the pin in the receiver. The stainless steel pin is the 3rd one displaying deflection in abouit 7000 miles of towing.

Something bad is going on.

David

I had a lot of slop & movement in my receiver setup (2010 Ford F150).

I ordered one of these Hitch Rider clamps & things seem much more solid now:

http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm

I wasn't seeing the draw pin bend but the noise & banging over bumps etc was quite concerning. All that is history now.

- evan

[dbj216]

Well, after about 1000 miles of towing, my stainless steel shank pin has deflected some. I thought it may be stronger, but not enough.

I see some displaced metal on my reducer sleeve. One side had the wear on the upper part of the hole, and the other side has the wear on the bottom side of the hole. This indicates the forces are a torsional load somewhere. I know my hitch is sloppy in the receiver and when I twist, the pin stops the movement.

I'm going shopping for a grade 8 bolt. It will be about 3 times as strong as the low carbon steel pin. It will transfer these forces to some other weak spot in the hitch.

We are in Ft Stevens State Park on the northwest Oregon coast. Beautiful here. I'm the only Airstream out of 200 campsites.

David

Here is a picture of the stainless steel shank pin showing deflection.

[ROBERT CROSS]

David,

Why not concentrate on the slop along with the pin?
I think if you "tighten-up", it will help with the pin deflection and the receiver hole elongation.
IMO... The sleeve should not have the oval hole.

The locking pin in post #28 has shown no deflection or ware in seven years of towing both the AS & boat trailer.

Bob

[dbj216]

Thanks for the reply Robert. I'm in a State Park and away from my garage. And I'm sure my garage is limited compared to yours. I don't weld. I will try to get some shim stock and a grade 8 bolt today. And I will continue to shop for higher quality, tighter fitting reducer sleeve.

David

[ROBERT CROSS]

My garage is a mess....

Bob