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Old 08-19-2013, 06:56 AM   #15
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Thanks Mac. I didn't think to ask if Propride made a "cat V" shank. A 2.5 inch square steel shank would eliminate the slop created by the reducer sleeve. I would have to figure out how to mount my rock tammers, but that shouldn't bee too hard.

We will move another 400 miles west today. We're in Mandan at Fort Lincoln where Lewis and Clark explorers spent their first winter. They needed Airstreams instead of mud huts.

David
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:00 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barneys View Post
That's the one I have also. Not used enough to comment on it though.
It is a bit cheaper on Amazon.
Fits the class V receiver with room to spare
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:25 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Thanks Mac. I didn't think to ask if Propride made a "cat V" shank. A 2.5 inch square steel shank would eliminate the slop created by the reducer sleeve.

David
Sure thing. I had to have it ground down like you did for yours - almost too perfect a square to fit in the receiver :-)

I don't have the 2" one to compare but the 2.5 is one heavy piece of gear - maybe 60#? I'll have to weigh it some time...
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:23 PM   #18
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Bent Shank Pin #2

Okay, I tried a new sleeve reducer with a round hole, and a new shank pin that didn't have the 45 degree bend.

After 900 miles of I-94, I finid the shank pin bent. A lousy picture is attached below.

The entire Propride "stinger" assembly wiggles quite a bit when pinned to the truck. Maybe the Ford 2.5 square provides too much slop.

I need to know my set up is right and the shank pin is not going to break.

Any help is much appreciated.

David
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:37 PM   #19
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Question

Maybe it's time to replace the 13year old receiver.

First towing mod I did was replace our class IV with the Reese V.

Lot's of talk on the Ford boards about the reducer problem with the OEM receiver.

Bob
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:28 AM   #20
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We pulled 350 miles to Missoula yesterday with a new stainless steel shank pin. It was not bent, but it did show signs of distress on the upper, outer edges of the pin. I will continue to use this pin for the next several days.

What can be putting high forces on the shank pin? I grabbed my rock tamer and rotated my hitch in the Ford receiver. I got about 5 degrees of slop as I twisted. Seemed like quite a bit. I think the pin resists this movement as well as the square corners themselves. The sleeve reducer adds to this

I also grabbed my Propride hitch by the overcenter clamp arms and twisted it with the spring bars loose. There was very little rotation available. It is a pretty rigid connection

So I imagine as I drive on to an incline, say a gas station entrance, my truck rotates before the trailer. Since the hitch is rigid, there is quite a torque trasmitted through the hitch receiver. What if I jacked up one side of my truck so the tires were off the ground. Would the trailer tires also be off the ground?

I wonder if the rigidity of the hitch puts a lot more load on the receiver? When I pull my little utility trailer with a simple shank and ball, the ball and coupler are free to articulate in all directions. But these new no sway, weight distribution hitches are more rigid. The ha ha and anderson threads talk about wear and broken hitch parts. By the way, my Propride tows much better than my old Reese dual cam.

I want to tow safely. I need to find a solution to all the stress I see on my shank pin. If I am the only guy in the woirld with bent shank pins, then I need to find the cause and correct it. I was hoping someone else had already solved this problem

David
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:56 AM   #21
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David - have you talked with Sean about the 2.5" option?
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #22
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Going back and looking at the picture in the first post I am having trouble picturing a 5/8 pin developing a curve like that when it is going through a 5/8 hole in a solid bar.
I am assuming of course that the hitch shank on a pro pride is a solid bar?
I can picture shearing action , but not a curved pin.

I have towed several 34 ft Airstreams cross country and parks model as long as 38 feet with never a hitch problem but that was the standard 2 inch receiver
When you solve it I will be interested in what the answer is..
We are taking our somewhat smaller trailer out for a few thousand miles and will be watching the pin in the 2.5 inch receiver closely.
Please keep posting what you find
I assume you have discussed this with Propride?
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:57 PM   #23
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Thanks again for all your advice and suggestions. It helps as I try to figure out what is going on. Two heads are better than one.

I have communicated with Propride and they responded immediately as usual. They suggest the 2.5 receiver tube with the 2' reducer is creating more slop than usual. They were not concerned the shank pin would fail. It would just bend until it found solid steel to support itself.

Here is a picture of the stainless steel pin with 350 miles on it. The pictures are difficult, but maybe you can see the darker distressed areas. There are two on the "top" toward the ends of the pin, and one on the bottom, kinda in the center. Maybe the steel properties of the stainless steel pin are better than the first two I have bent. Time will tell. I don't like the 45 degree kink in this pin, but it was what was available in the store. You can see how the bend area does work against the outside of the receiver hole. I see some displaced metal on my receiver due to this 45 degree bend.

I can see a 2.5 inch Propride "draw bar", or welding a good sleeve reducer to the Propride draw bar would eliminate some of the slop. I won't alter a Propride part without their blessing. I'm no hitch engineer!

It appears the Propride yoke keeps the hitch head from rotating, but I'm not sure on this. How can the hitch rotate without a lot of torque on the receiver.

David
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:03 AM   #24
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I have a 2.5" receiver with the reducer. 2" propride hitch. 2012 chevy 2500 crew cab. 2002 Safari 25. No problem with pen. Holes in receiver and reducer are round. Miles on truck / P3 setup are greater than 5000.

Let us all know when you figure this out.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:29 PM   #25
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There must be enough slop in the shank than when you hit a bridge abutment or rough road there must be a shearing effect with the hitch movement.

The factory OEM receiver (2") that came on my pickup is very sloppy. The hole where the pin slides through was starting to elongate. I could also hear noise from the hitch going over rough roads.
I finally placed some welds on the Hensley stinger 2 years ago to tighten up the fit. Since then the noise has quit and the holes have not elongated any more. The downside to this is the stinger won't fit in other vehicles receiver.
If it were me I would concentrate on getting rid of the slop. Unless you need the 2.5" receiver opening I would weld in the sleeve or consider a different 2" class 5 receiver.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:05 PM   #26
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Okay, 250 miles today on rough and hilly Idaho 95 to Lewiston. We are at Hells Gate State Park. Lousy name, very nice park along the Snake River. The Missoula KOA is very nice also.

The stanless steel pin by Master Lock remains straight after about 600 miles of towing.

CORRECTION: I reported I could not twist, or rotate my Propide hitch with the spring bars loose. This is not correct. I did not think of the fact that the Propride hitch weighs quite a bit, forcing the ball to the bottom of the socket. Secondly, if I move the spring bars out, the hitch is freer to twist, or rotate on the ball. So it is not a rigid as I thought. Study and learn.

This morning I measured the stainless steel pin at .624 diameter. I measured the Ford receiver hole at .680, the receiver sleeve hole at 6.75, and the Propride through hole at .680. So there is a good .050 slop between the pin and the holes.

I measured the Ford receiver square opening at 2.53, the reducer sleeve outside at 2.50 giving .070 slop. I measured the reducer sleeve inside at 2.07 and the Propride square shank at 2.00 giving another .070 slop. That is .140 of slop. Enough slop to make a good sandwich!

When I twist, or rotate the hitch when pinned to the Ford, the pin stops the rotation, not the squares. Makes sense as there is more slop in the squares. I think this explains how my shank pin gets bent. The corners of the squares are working the pin hard in a localized spot, and the pin has room to deflect.

My next action will take the slop out of the assembly with either a Propride 2.5 shank, or a sleeve reducer welded to the Propride. I hate to loose my V-5 Ford 2.5" receiver and it is specifically labeled NOT to alter it in anyway. Chances are Propride feels the same way.

I would also benefit from a custom shank pin made to .650 diameter or so with a nice lead in cone on one end for easier alignment. This would also reduce the slop in the assembly.

You forum participants are quite helpful. You suggested a higher quality shank pin, eliminating the reducer sleeve, and getting the slop out of the assembly. It seems to me these actions will reduce the chance of a bent and possibly failing shank pin.

I'm gonna keep inspecting this shank pin for safety's sake.

David
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:59 PM   #27
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Just a thought but I had the same "slop" problem with my 2.5" Ford receiver. Elongated the holes in no time at all. Purchased an Anderson aluminum reducer sleeve and it fit TIGHT. Had to bump it in with a hammer. 20K miles of towing all sorts of trailers with no noticeable wear.
Good luck
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:00 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Okay, 250 miles today on rough and hilly Idaho 95 to Lewiston. We are at Hells Gate State Park. Lousy name, very nice park along the Snake River. The Missoula KOA is very nice also.

The stanless steel pin by Master Lock remains straight after about 600 miles of towing.

CORRECTION: I reported I could not twist, or rotate my Propide hitch with the spring bars loose. This is not correct. I did not think of the fact that the Propride hitch weighs quite a bit, forcing the ball to the bottom of the socket. Secondly, if I move the spring bars out, the hitch is freer to twist, or rotate on the ball. So it is not a rigid as I thought. Study and learn.

This morning I measured the stainless steel pin at .624 diameter. I measured the Ford receiver hole at .680, the receiver sleeve hole at 6.75, and the Propride through hole at .680. So there is a good .050 slop between the pin and the holes.

I measured the Ford receiver square opening at 2.53, the reducer sleeve outside at 2.50 giving .070 slop. I measured the reducer sleeve inside at 2.07 and the Propride square shank at 2.00 giving another .070 slop. That is .140 of slop. Enough slop to make a good sandwich!

When I twist, or rotate the hitch when pinned to the Ford, the pin stops the rotation, not the squares. Makes sense as there is more slop in the squares. I think this explains how my shank pin gets bent. The corners of the squares are working the pin hard in a localized spot, and the pin has room to deflect.

My next action will take the slop out of the assembly with either a Propride 2.5 shank, or a sleeve reducer welded to the Propride. I hate to loose my V-5 Ford 2.5" receiver and it is specifically labeled NOT to alter it in anyway. Chances are Propride feels the same way.

I would also benefit from a custom shank pin made to .650 diameter or so with a nice lead in cone on one end for easier alignment. This would also reduce the slop in the assembly.

You forum participants are quite helpful. You suggested a higher quality shank pin, eliminating the reducer sleeve, and getting the slop out of the assembly. It seems to me these actions will reduce the chance of a bent and possibly failing shank pin.

I'm gonna keep inspecting this shank pin for safety's sake.

David
Our AS stinger fit's well.
Boat trailer stinger....not so much.
Ordered one of these to take up the slack...works very well, no more movement or noise over bumps. Yes it is upside down...just easier to tighten with the cordless.

Just a thought.

Bob
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