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Old 10-17-2016, 05:32 PM   #15
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1976 31' Sovereign
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,030
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I have been using this version of Reese old style dual cam since 1977. Would not use any other kind of hitch, as far as saying hard to set up false hood very simple no drilling no nuts or any thing else to adjust, just install 4 u bolts in plate over frame, position snap ups so cam on bars fit saddles on snap ups. New style Reese dual cam, you have to drill and hang from bottom of a frame then adjust length for bars, IMO hard to set up plus nuts and threaded part weak link. Bill

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Old 10-17-2016, 06:05 PM   #16
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2003 31' Classic
Terra Alta , West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 207
They are excellent. I have that in complete set that I used for many years. Now have new type Reese dual cam. I have kept the old ones and probably will change to those because they worked much better.

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Old 10-17-2016, 06:11 PM   #17
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2000 34' Limited
1985 25' Sovereign
LaGrange Highlands , Illinois
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 34
I have the parts that U need for that setup. Infact I am just getting ready to post them for sale. I think I might have the instructions how to set it up
U can e me at if interested.
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:40 PM   #18
1 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
Edmonton , Alberta
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 9
Interested, where are you located?

Originally Posted by Bob Cooke View Post
I have a hitch "head with 2inch ball" and bars that fit saddle side sway control off 1966 25 ft. That has been sold . also these hitches are excellent for towing but remember cam lock sway control does not
Work when you are in a turn. Saddle hump only works in going straight line. Different concept from friction pads on friction sway units. If interested in my parts e-mail me for a picture. Head and bars $50.00
Bob C.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:19 AM   #19
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2005 19' Safari
ishpeming , Michigan
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 59

I have a slightly updated version of your setup and LOVE it. As others have pointed out you need a set of trunion (sp?) bars and a receiver for same on the TV. I believe there are three different size bars to choose from I had to change mine out (came with 1200# bars) for 600# for my 19' Bambi.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:25 AM   #20
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1967 17' Caravel
Cadillac , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2009
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My 67 came with a very similar Reese setup. Is it OK to use? It looks brand new.
Who would I have set this up?
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:09 PM   #21
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,522
Dingo Girl, you can set it up yourself, no problem. This Reese hitch is a bolt on affair. Even I can do it. The whole idea of weight distributing hitches is like sticking a 10' long pipe in the tow vehicle receiver and lifting. The rear goes up, and the front goes down. Here is what I did:

Parked the trailer and tow vehicle on level pavement. Level the trailer. Measured the height of the trailer coupler, which I have found to be about 18" from the ground on all three Airstreams we have around here.

Measure the height of the receiver "square" center point. Then determine how much drop or lift you need in the hitch head shank so the ball will engage the coupler of the trailer with both vehicles level. Our Jeep Grand Cherokee has a high receiver, so we needed about 3" of drop. That's why the funny looking shank.

Mount and tighten the hitch head to the shank and tighten the grade 8 bolts and lock nuts to SAE torque specs for that size fastener. 180 ft lbs wouldn't surprise. The hitch head and shank assembly is mounted to the tow vehicle.

Measure your wheel well lips on the tow vehicle, four wheels, and record.

Hitch the trailer to the tow vehicle and retract the tongue jack. Notice how the rear of the tow vehicle squats some and the front end comes up due to the tongue weight. Measure the wheel well lips again and record. We had about 2" of drop in the rear and about 1 1/2" rise in the front due to the tongue weight.

Now insert the spring bars into the hitch head. Mount the "saddles" to the A frame so the spring bar "cam" rides in the center of the saddle with the spring bar roughly parallel to the trailer A frame member. And mount the spring bar "over center draw clamps" to the A frame so you draw the spring bars roughly straight up.

Now you want to reduce a goodly part of the front end lift of the tow vehicle. I simply crank up the tongue jack lifting the rear of the tow vehicle and lowering the front of the tow vehicle. Connect the spring bar lift chain to the draw clamp and lock it into place. Crank the tongue jack to retract it fully and measure the wheel lips.

You might not recover all of the wheel lip measurements, but you should recover 80% of it, especially in the front.

That's it I think.

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Old 10-19-2016, 01:09 AM   #22
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1958 22' Caravanner
not shared , Nebraska
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 166
When first introduced it was called Reese Straight Line. Third generation called the same but radically different.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:20 AM   #23
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1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central , Texas
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That is a good hitch. I have used the one that came on my 1972 Ambassador. I've had to make a few repairs, but it has served well for the last six years and 25,000+ miles of towing.

Good information on the hitch here-

Also, anything else on Tom's site is worth a read.


Work is never done, so take time to play!
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