Anderson Weight Distribution Anti-Sway Hitch

[vuch]

We are brand new to towing an Airstream trailer. Previously owned an Itasca 33' Suncruiser Motor Home. We towed our Honda CRV behind the motor home.

The Anderson No Sway Weight Distribution Hitch looks like it will provide the stability and Weight Distribution we need for towing our 2016 Flying Cloud. The hitch seems simple to install and set-up plus it is much ligther than the other available products. We will be towing our new trailer with a 2015 F150 Lariat 2.7l Eco Boast supercab with the 155.9" wheelbase, auto tow brake controler and factory installed sway bars are part of the basic towing package from Ford.

Comments and suggestions on what the most appropriate No Sway Weight Distribution Hitches would be appreciated as well as any negatives on using the Anderson vs. the new Blue Ox system which is much heavier and more complex.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions and comments.

[AWCHIEF]

Welcome, it has all been beat to death here.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ead-92131.html

[Mrjkq]

No negative stuff on the Anderson just a comment on my setup. I tow with a RAM 1500 similar to your ford ( same only different) & use the Equalizer 4 point WD Hitch. We are returning to our home tomorrow after a 15 day trip into the Smoky Mountains & Nashville (seen Blake Shelton at the Opry). In MHO it's the easiest most effective hitch for this tow combination. I pull at 65 MPH up & down hills, on the straight away & no sway, no steering corrections, no problems, just smooth going.

[msmcv51]

I found that our previous truck, F150 super crew liked the Andersen a whole lot more once I installed a pair of helper springs. That said will the 2.7 Eco boost be enough power for your trailer once it is loaded. What rear end gear is in the truck?

[dkottum]

I used one for several months and consider it a bad idea poorly developed. Troublesome. Parts wear prematurely (grease helps). The friction material squeezes out of the hitch over time. It cannot nearly distribute the tongue weight of a 25' Airstream because the mechanical leverage is not there. There is almost no flexibility when the chains are attached and drawn tight.

Andersen warns it cannot be used with the Airstream coupler, you must cut it off and weld on a comparable coupler; a few users have come up with jerry rigs. The risk of a disconnected Airstream was the last straw for us, we got rid of it.

[Mageliza]

No complaints at all. Easy to hook up & feels great on the road.

[vuch]

Originally Posted by msmcv51

I found that our previous truck, F150 super crew liked the Andersen a whole lot more once I installed a pair of helper springs. That said will the 2.7 Eco boost be enough power for your trailer once it is loaded. What rear end gear is in the truck?

Thanks for all your comments on the Andersen. 2.7 Eco Boost puts out 375lbs of torque more than enough power and it has the 3.31 electronic locking rear axle. Also has the additional springs.. My biggest concern is the ability of the Anderson Hitch to push the load forward over the front axle. Sway control should not be a big issue despite the lighter weight of the truck. This is a two wheel drive not 4 so less weight on the front end. Thanks again.

[pteck]

I've used it and it is great. Supremely stable with absolutely no hint of sway. Rides great with no porpoising. Easy to use.

It's perfect so long as you're not trying to transfer significant weight to the front axle. The people that are experiencing issues are using it outside of it's intended parameters (meaning trying to shift too much weight to the front axle). This will only prematurely wear the friction material at the ball, the chain donut springs, and risk detachment at the coupler.

[sws323tt]

I Tow a 28 foot international with my VW TDI, remember to buy a good grease gun and grease it every 500 miles or so. We've had it for over two years and love it.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by Stu101

I Tow a 28 foot international with my VW TDI, remember to buy a good grease gun and grease it every 500 miles or so. We've had it for over two years and love it.

Not sure what you are greasing. I have used the Andersen for 3 years and there is no place on the hitch that requires or wants greasing.

The ball does not move in the coupler so no need there. If installed correctly the chains are in line with the hangers so no need there. The only other moving part is the sway control material in the ball shank so no need there.

I have considered putting paraffin wax between the chain nut and washer, on my daughter's trailer, to reduce the effort when she is tightening the chains but since I never release the chains I keep forgetting to do that on her rig.

I jack the combination up to the point that the chains have relaxed while hitching and unhitching. I made a modification to the ball shank, installed a 5/16 roll pin, to keep the shank from coming out while jacking the combination up. Thus I never need or use the wrench on the chains. Andersen has adopted that idea and now puts a C ring on the shank.

[sws323tt]

Sorry I was using Hensley, which needs greasing every 500 miles

[MacPDX]

Originally Posted by Stu101

Sorry I was using Hensley, which needs greasing every 500 miles

Wow, that seems like a pain to grease every day or every other day when traveling.

[2012FB]

Originally Posted by vuch

My biggest concern is the ability of the Anderson Hitch to push the load forward over the front axle.

From my experience the Anderson has very little weight transfer capability. It is only done by compression on the plastic bushings. If you compress them too much it "locks" up the functionality and makes everything worse. You will also lose the anti-sway function at this point. Buy a better better WD and anti-sway. I used mine once and immediately sold it to a pop- up owner.



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[HowieE]

Originally Posted by 2012FB

From my experience the Anderson has very little weight transfer capability. It is only done by compression on the plastic bushings. If you compress them too much it "locks" up the functionality and makes everything worse. You will also lose the anti-sway function at this point. Buy a better better WD and anti-sway. I used mine once and immediately sold it to a pop- up owner.
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Some of what you say may even be correct.

Yes you can over tighten the bushings, factory stated limit is 3/8 of an in.

However if you did over tighten them it would have no effect on the sway control. That is a function of the chains and angle plate moving the ball shank against the brake material.

Over tightening, by those attempting to transfer move weight to the front axe of the TV, has resulted in COLD FLOW of the brake material. Not an unexpected result for going beyond the manufactures instructions.

Not sure what you mean by Locks up functionality. It could result in the bushings exploding and thus such a loss.

I am not sure why there are a few so adamantly against the Andersen but it is clear their numbers are increasing fewer than those that are satisfied. I am sure there are those that have had bad experiences with every other hitch system. Whether that be the cumbersome and time consuming aspects of the Ha Ha type system, the miss-design of the Reese Straight Line System that results in the yokes failing on a tight turn, or the limits of curtain maneuvers. They are free, as I have stated such problems resulting from experience in the past, to post such comments as a limitation but do not support a complete condemnation.

[truckasaurus]

Originally Posted by HowieE

Not sure what you are greasing. I have used the Andersen for 3 years and there is no place on the hitch that requires or wants greasing.

The ball does not move in the coupler so no need there. If installed correctly the chains are in line with the hangers so no need there. The only other moving part is the sway control material in the ball shank so no need there.

I have considered putting paraffin wax between the chain nut and washer, on my daughter's trailer, to reduce the effort when she is tightening the chains but since I never release the chains I keep forgetting to do that on her rig.

I jack the combination up to the point that the chains have relaxed while hitching and unhitching. I made a modification to the ball shank, installed a 5/16 roll pin, to keep the shank from coming out while jacking the combination up. Thus I never need or use the wrench on the chains. Andersen has adopted that idea and now puts a C ring on the shank.

I like that idea a lot! Would a stack of washers around the base of the shank between the pin and the hitch body or something similar work just as well do you think? (for me it might be easier to find the washers that take the shank to a machinist)

[2012FB]

Originally Posted by HowieE

However if you did over tighten them it would have no effect on the sway control.

Not sure what you mean by Locks up functionality. It could result in the bushings exploding and thus such a loss.

Not what Anderson said. If bushings are fully compressed sway control is defeated, at least this is the response I got back when I complained. Locks up was meant to indicate rigid. No flex. No dampening.


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[HowieE]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

Would a stack of washers around the base of the shank between the pin and the hitch body

It not that simple. The roll pin or C clip, on the newer shanks, has to strike the bottom of the hitch body to keep the shank in place while leaving clearance to the angle plate allowing the plate pin to be removed and the plate dropped.

If you are buying a new system that will come with the C clip already in place. If you own an older part the roll pin is possible. However keep in mind that that is not a simple change. If a roll pin is placed in the shank notches have to be ground into the top of the angle plate to clear the roll pin and a little material has to be removed from the top of the collar on the plate.

I suffer from terminal tinkerites and thus am willing to tackle such ideas when I want to improve something. Andersen agreed with the idea and installed the c clip.

[truckasaurus]

Ah, thanks for the info. I bought a used Andersen a few months ago and really like it but your modification would make it excellent! Thank you.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by 2012FB

Not what Anderson said. If bushings are fully compressed sway control is defeated, at least this is the response I got back when I complained. Locks up was meant to indicate rigid. No flex. No dampening.
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If the bushings are fully compressed I could see that it would reduce the hitch's effect on purposing, "No Flex". It is the near infinite resonate frequency of the bushings that dampens that, where as spring bars can actually increase it, but as for sway control that is a function of the resistance of the brake material.

Just exactly what was your problem with the Andersen and what is your TV. Your trailers listed in your signature should not pose a problem but a lightly sprung TV might.

[2012FB]

Originally Posted by HowieE

If the bushings are fully compressed I could see that it would reduce the hitch's effect on purposing, "No Flex". It is the near infinite resonate frequency of the bushings that dampens that, where as spring bars can actually increase it, but as for sway control that is a function of the resistance of the brake material.

Just exactly what was your problem with the Andersen and what is your TV. Your trailers listed in your signature should not pose a problem but a lightly sprung TV might.

I contracted Anderson prior to purchasing the 30' Bunk to be completely assured the Anderson Anti-Sway WD would work properly with a 30' Bunk being pulled by a 2014 ML350. The confident answer was yes. I had the dealer order and install it. When I got to Boise to pick the trailer up the dealers mechanic could not even come close to having the ML balanced. He must have redone the whole setup half a dozen times. When it was as close as he could get it I headed back to Denver. The winds were blowing quite hard and it was very unstable the whole trip. I had the most severe sway condition I have ever had occur clearing an underpass with a slight curve to it. By the time I had my hand down on the brake controller the ML350 was in full warning and control mode which is why I was able to continue my journey home. It was undoubtedly the worst experience pulling a trailer of any kind in over 25 years of trailering. I got back to Denver and called Anderson speaking to the exact salesman who recommended it. He immediately back tracked and said that the bushings were over compressed defeating the anti-sway function, and while not directly admitting it mind you, would not WD that kind of tongue weight. The 1,400 pound rating is only the drop rating not even close to the WD function rating which again he would not say what that was. I am guessing it is only a few hundred pounds. If your TV will support the weight properly without putting much compression on the bushings I am sure it is might be great, otherwise it is just dangerous period. I sold it on Craig's list for half what I paid for it a week old.