Anderson No-Sway with CAT numbers

[DannyClark]

Gotcha. Alright then, I can modify that three ways:
-Less crap in the truck
-Less crap in the trailer
-redistribution of crap

Seeing as I’m near max on my 26U’s GVWR, less crap in trailer could be a strong start lol. Thanks All. It takes a village to raise an idiot.

[jcl]

Originally Posted by DannyClark

Gotcha. Alright then, I can modify that three ways:
-Less crap in the truck
-Less crap in the trailer
-redistribution of crap

Seeing as I’m near max on my 26U’s GVWR, less crap in trailer could be a strong start lol. Thanks All. It takes a village to raise an idiot.

Don't discount the importance of less crap in the truck. Personally, I'd vote for less crap, overall. A question for each of us to answer to ourselves: Does bringing all this crap make me happier? If not, why bring it?

[DannyClark]

I agree. My “challenge” is my driving need for independence coupled with my instincts to be prepared for nearly every conceivable scenario, which is intertwined within my DNA lol. I blame the Army. I’ve got tools I’ve never used, but dang it, I’ve got it if I need it. Judging by prior experience, the people around me seem to appreciate my over packing. I’m that guy.

[slowmover]

Try running thru the scenarios of what you'd actually fix. Most appliance testers aren't going to then call for an overhaul, it'd be a replacement. Thus, the TT is mainly electrical and a bit of plumbing.

Same for truck. Sensors are the likely problem. The days of carrying spare fuel pumps, water pumps and alternators is twenty years past.

As to clothing/personal gear I'm all for covering a very basic four seasons. But it's really about shirtsleeve weather, isn't it?

That pretty well covers necessary (besides food).

The rest of what's carried to afford safe travel is fairly minimal.

That then leaves the very individual desires. Where the pickup thing -- my magic one ton -- gets out of hand.

"Independence" is more a matter of no outside re-supply. First, with hookups. Second, without. Water & propane are priority. Electric not at all, it's applicable for furnace fan and water pump only.

Two weeks is fairly easy. Four weeks plus is where it gets tough. Where a truck TV starts to make sense.

.

[DMT]

Slow mover - Throw in two kids and a dog and the list for one weekend grows, let alone four weeks. Best tow I have had was using the Q7 for a weekend alone with my better half. Sadly that is impossible when the rest of the army is on board.

[DMT]

I have a 16’ enclosed cargo trailer that has 7’ walls, dual 3500 torsion axels and a 2” coupler. It is terrible to tow. Conditions are usually windy and I find it is prone to sway, so I avoid poor weather and drive slower.

Would an Anderson work for this application to control sway? The trailer is never heavily loaded (just a side x side of about 1300 lbs) and tongue weight has never been a problem.

[RandyNH]

Originally Posted by DannyClark

The old thread stalled because the opposing team wanted Cat numbers. I’ve been curious and own a unused Reese Dual Cam so I ultimately don’t care either way. If it doesn’t re-distribute weight what’s the point? There’s cheaper anti-friction devices aplenty. I prefer the easy hitching and unhitching, the quiet, the low weight, and the lack of grease all over my clothes, but it’s got to work. So I went and got numbers. Admittedly they aren’t perfect, but it does show that even without an ideal install on the new truck yet, it is transferring weight. Now there are other valid concerns that only time will prove out, but it’s doing what it claims. Admittedly I’m an inexperienced tower. I’ve never owned a TT before so I don’t have a lot of comparisons to make. I did own a enclosed 7x14 cargo trailer and hated towing with it due to sway etc.

As for my f250, Your right. I’ll have to evaluate that. Sad truth is I was on less than half a tank of fuel. I’m under all other relevant numbers (GCWR, Tow Capicity etc), but I’m up against the GVWR. I do have the truck loaded with a lot of tools/generator/spare fuel/firewood/tire chains/camping chairs/and other random camping-full timing madness. Out of curiosity, is your F350 a ‘17?

I was driving on the highway yesterday (to get these weights) and we had a windstorm raging at 60mph winds and she tracked great. I haven’t really had a problem with the Ranchos yet, but it’s also a valid point.

Mine is a 2017, I picked it up in August. My old TV was a Sierra 1500, I too had weight issues, so when moving, "stuff" would travel in trailer, more capacity, and when disconnected it would all go back in the truck, once the tongue weight was removed. When I first started looking, my plan was a 250 then I saw what the numbers were on them and decided on the 350, so as to not have to think of it again.

I also have an Andersen, they actually work quite well and it should serve you as good as anything else for weight distribution and as you've realized, they are much easier to deal with. I will tell you that if it does start to make noise then the interior of the cone has gotten wet and Andersen are good about replacing it if necessary. When tightening it for WD your limiting factor will come to how much more difficult and time consuming it is to hook up.

Being close to your maxes, also make sure your tire pressures are where they should be.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by DMT

Slow mover - Throw in two kids and a dog and the list for one weekend grows, let alone four weeks. Best tow I have had was using the Q7 for a weekend alone with my better half. Sadly that is impossible when the rest of the army is on board.

I grew up family of five with a luxury car pulling a 28' SS. Keep working at it. We covered 3-4 week trips.

[DMT]

[emoji4]. Will do.

[DannyClark]

Thanks for all the advise everyone. Definitely some words of experience shared. In our defense, we’re currently full timing it while we casually house hunt. We decided that instead of paying rent, we would put the money into something we wanted anyway. If I had my way we wouldn’t be in any hurry. We’re in the Seattle metro area. Prices are astounding. My bet is in the next 6-12 months we’re going to see a correction. Anyway, I digress. What that means ultimately is, we’ve got considerably more gear on board than we would had we a home (and more importantly a shop) to store much of the things I bring for the various projects and scenarios we encounter/could encounter. For example I’ve got probably over 150# in tire chains (full set for truck and both axles for airstream) anticipating some travel in the passes this winter. Normally that would be stored for an as needed basis. I joke with my wife that the truck has become a rolling storage unit. I imagine the F250 will eventually return to a place of normality, where it will become overkill. That’s my hope anyway:-). Honestly I’m just happy to verify that the Anderson is indeed working, and now I’ll consider putting my Reese dual cam on Craigslist.

To the fella with the enclosed trailer, exactly my experience. While I’m sure most would say learn to load it correctly, I spent hours and hours packing and repacking and could never seem to find the ideal balance necessary to eliminate the wag. As for the Anderson, I’m sure it would work fine based on my limited experience with it, but there are other, less expensive and effective anti-sway devices that would help also. That’s my .02. Money back guarantee:-).

[DannyClark]

Also, one of the challenges I’m experiencing with both weight distribution and GVWR is the tongue weight of my 26u. I’m at 1200#’s. Factory lists it at 900, but I’m suspicious. I replaced the lead acid for two BattleBorn lithium’s, but I’ll be danged if I can’t figure out where all that weight is coming from. How can the dinette be so heavy?

[DannyClark]

Originally Posted by RandyNH

Mine is a 2017, I picked it up in August. My old TV was a Sierra 1500, I too had weight issues, so when moving, "stuff" would travel in trailer, more capacity, and when disconnected it would all go back in the truck, once the tongue weight was removed. When I first started looking, my plan was a 250 then I saw what the numbers were on them and decided on the 350, so as to not have to think of it again.

I also have an Andersen, they actually work quite well and it should serve you as good as anything else for weight distribution and as you've realized, they are much easier to deal with. I will tell you that if it does start to make noise then the interior of the cone has gotten wet and Andersen are good about replacing it if necessary. When tightening it for WD your limiting factor will come to how much more difficult and time consuming it is to hook up.

Being close to your maxes, also make sure your tire pressures are where they should be.

Damn it. Why can’t I sleep like normal people lol. On this RandyNH, I test drove a couple 350’s a few weeks ago when I was shopping. I noticed I could easily have purchased one between $5-7k cheaper than a 250 believe it or not. It seems inventory was much higher on the 350’s than the dealerships anticipated and with the 2018’s arriving momentarily combined with the mounting holdbacks, they were very motivated to move them. For me it came down to ride quality. Unloaded the 250 (especially the Fx4) as noted earlier in the thread rode noticeably smoother. I’ve got bulged discs in my back and neck, so ride quality was a valid consideration (thus the platinums heated massage seats:-). This truck will likely see dramatically more time as my Daily Driver than an Airstream motor so that was the split for me. Now maybe I should start another thread on this next observation, but I think it’s relevant to the GVWR/axle discussion happening here. The only difference I could discern between the two (250/350) was an additional leaf spring in the rear. Same brakes. Same frame. Same transmission. Same tires. And from what I can gather from the published charts (hard to read on my phone) pretty much the same GVWR’s until you get into the DRW (dually) configuration. Am I reading it wrong?

[RandyNH]

Originally Posted by DannyClark

I’ve got bulged discs in my back and neck, so ride quality was a valid consideration (thus the platinums heated massage seats:-). This truck will likely see dramatically more time as my Daily Driver than an Airstream motor so that was the split for me. Now maybe I should start another thread on this next observation, but I think it’s relevant to the GVWR/axle discussion happening here. The only difference I could discern between the two (250/350) was an additional leaf spring in the rear. Same brakes. Same frame. Same transmission. Same tires. And from what I can gather from the published charts (hard to read on my phone) pretty much the same GVWR’s until you get into the DRW (dually) configuration. Am I reading it wrong?

Ah yes, the heated massaging seats... That would be nice.

Yes, the axle ratings vs the vehicle rating is always the debate, I believe to each his own, so long as you have all the information available and it's your money then it's your decision to make. (Not you specifically - your, everyone/anyone - your) I can see understand the argument from both sides.

I copied the following from the Ford HD brochure

F-250 High-Capacity Trailer Tow Package1 (F-250 with 8' box and diesel engine only) includes max. front springs, upgraded axles and 27,500 lb.-GCWR

Ford does this with all their high capacity levels, they use the equipment from the next model up, thus in addition to the extra leaf the axles are also an upgrade. I had found the model numbers when I was originally spec'ing them out, but don't remember the levels now, Dana 60 stick in my head, but I've done so much research I could just be mixing things up on that point.

Mine is a single rear wheel with a GVWR of 11,500. I found the 350 and 250 similarly priced, I didn't drive the 250 (so not spoiled) but found the 350 extremely comfortable between the seats and the ride, for me and more importantly the wife.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by DannyClark

Posted this in the loooong Anderson thread but thought creating my own thread would get more traction.




All right, I don't know where we stand on this thread, but I remember people asking for a 3pass scale report. I had some time today, so I finally found my way to the closest Cat Scale to me in North Bend, Wa. I'll preface this report by saying that I just bought a new 2017 F250, and I'm still tinkering with ideal ball height. My 26U has the Dexter 3" lift installed, and i've been challenged to find the ideal ball height. The way I have it now, the trailer is riding pretty level, but I've only got 4 threads showing on the chain bolts each side. I was running 7 showing when I was towing the 26U with my previous F150. I do not have any numbers with the F150 unfortunately.

So here goes. I did 6 passes. Yes, they truckers and scale staff weren't happy with me, but it's for science, right? I ended up doing 6 because I screwed up 2 of the first 3, not getting the front axle and rear axle on separate scale plates. I should have read the How To available on this forum again to refresh.

Pass #1
Truck with Trailer utilizing Anderson=
Steer Axle-10,000lbs.
Drive Axle-0lbs.
Trailer Axle-6800lbs
Total Weight-16800lbs.

Pass #2
Truck with Trailer without Anderson
Steer Axle-10060lbs
Drive Axle-0lbs
Trailer Axle-6740lbs
Total Weight-16800lbs

Pass #3
Truck Alone
Steer Axle-8920lbs
Drive Axle-0lbs
Trailer Axle-0lbs
Total Weight-8920lbs

Pass #4
Truck with Trailer utilizing Anderson
Steer Axle-4580lbs
Drive Axle-5400lbs
Trailer Axle-6840lbs
Total Weight-16820lbs

Pass#5
This one was for fun. I shot to get each trailer axle, no Anderson. The rest of the weights will be off because the truck was too far forward to hit the scale plates correctly.
Steer Axle-9440lbs
Drive Axle-3340lbs
Trailer Axle-3380lbs
Total Weight-16160lbs

and lastly:
Pass #6
Truck with Trailer without Anderson
Steer Axle-4440lbs
Drive Axle-5560lbs
Trailer Axle-6780lbs
Total Weight-16780lbs


So, now what? What's this telling me? It does show the Anderson shifting weight around, but not allot. Admittedly, as I noted above, I don't have a ton of tension on the system due to ride level. I could drop the ball down one set of holes and then tension the system to try to correct the ride leveling, but that would put the ball and my trailer couple level with each other. Anderson recommends the ball should me mounted 1" to 1.5" above level trailer coupler height prior to hooking up and tensioning. Anyway, now to sit back and let you pro's educate this rookie:-).

I am sure glad you had it right on pass 6.
The Anderson is not a very good hitch from any perspective.
I had one for one season and took me forever to get the WD where I needed. Eventually I stumbled on removing a link from each chain and really torque it down to move about 200 lbs to the trailer and about 125 to the steer axle. However the worst thing was it has zero sway control. I finally got rid of it after a harrowing drive out west with stiff side winds and heavy truck traffic.
I was pulling a 2013 30' International.