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Old 09-25-2015, 02:18 PM   #15
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With respect to an Airstream YES. The Atwood coupler that Airstream uses is the cheapest one on the market and thus pron to failure. I did not change the coupler on my daughter's trailer, when I installed an Andersen, as it has a stronger latch design but will keep an eye on it.

In general those living in areas with smooth roads will not experience a coupler failure a soon as those of us living in the north east did. The frequency of shock applied to the shark fin is the cause of the shearing off. With a lighter trailer you may go for some time but watch the shark fin and latch expecting the problem over time.

Andersen has follow the treads on this Forum and others and has reacted to suggestions and concerns to a much greater degree than most manufactures would have. They are way ahead of GM and VW in that respect. In general almost all of the hitch manufactures offer above average customer support. It comes down to the degree of sway control, ease of hitching, and cost/ performance. You can spend more significantly for similar sway control but you can't equal ease of hitching
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:26 PM   #16
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Thanks HowieE, I just got off the phone with Andersen and they quickly state that their hitch is incompatible with the Atwood with model number starting with 88. They would not go so far as to recommend a coupler brand, but best to get one that encases the ball.

Do,you have a recommendation on a coupler? Again, I tow with F250 Superduty 4x4, and have a 2013 FC, RB twin.
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:27 AM   #17
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I used the Quick Bite. The important thing to remember if you install a new coupler is to position it to the tongue with the jack post. This may require padding out the tongue on the under side but will insure the jack set vertical when you are finished.

first picture shows the jack positioning the coupler. Second shows the finished, unpainted, hitched up.
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Old 09-26-2015, 09:23 AM   #18
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Forgot to mention. The Quike Bit allows you to back directly into the coupler when hitching, note the open jaws. A nice advantage if someone is guiding you in.
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Old 09-26-2015, 09:28 AM   #19
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Thanks. Once the coupler is changed, are there still any weight distribution issues that you have experienced?
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:45 PM   #20
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Yes when I installed an Andersen on a GM 1500 with a 7500 lbs SOB I was not happy with the transfer to the front axle. That should not be an issue with a F250
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:35 AM   #21
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Is this it? QB Trailer Coupler - A Frame - 2 5/16 ball - 15K lb?

Last issue is to see if a longer hitch bar is available so that I can still drop my tailgate when hitched,
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:55 AM   #22
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I would not suggest using a longer hitch bar.

The length of the hitch bar increases the distance of the ball from the rear axle. That distance effects the sway and WD factors of any hitch adversely. It would be hard to quantify that effect but it would exist.

What is the conflict, the jack post or the ball, with the tailgate?

The description of the QB sounds correct, but to be sure mine is a 7700.

The QB adds a little length to the tongue but the Andersen reduces the length to the rear axle. The best I can suggest is try and find an Andersen user and make some measurements
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverEagle6 View Post
Is this it? QB Trailer Coupler - A Frame - 2 5/16 ball - 15K lb?

Last issue is to see if a longer hitch bar is available so that I can still drop my tailgate when hitched,
When I installed the Quick Bite I had to add to the length of the safety chains which meant that the trailer moved away from the truck.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:51 PM   #24
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Jack post, already have the motor turned. I'll find a dealer and take the measurements.

Thanks to all for the info.
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:58 PM   #25
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I tow my 30' classic with a 1 ton pickup. I asked the Anderson people for a 3" longer tow bar so as to allow me to open the tailgate. What Howie said is true but with my combination I have not noticed any difference at all. With a lighter tow vehicle this may become an issue but not with mine
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Old 10-09-2015, 08:34 AM   #26
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Howie,
Would you describe the common problems of the Reese hitch?

I am now considering the Reese SC hitch for a yet-to-arrive FC25FB; first looked at the dual cam, but I'm not impressed with its noise, complexity to set-up and that the arms may pull off the cams in a tight turn.

Your thoughts and insights would be a big help.
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:24 AM   #27
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I have never heard of the bars pulling off the cams in a turn. If that could happen it would only be while backing up, you can jackknife while backing. That would almost have to be an installation error, and yes they are common.

Reese was a good hitch while they were an independent company good customer support. That said the problems with the Dual Cam are. Complex initial set up, frequent need to adjust if used with high mileage, Bars need to be marked side to side, porpoising, noise, oiling trunions, time to hitch, limited effect on sway.

The Straight Line was a replacement for the Dual Cam. The major issue with that system, the above issues still are there, is the outside bar hitting and braking the yoke on the trailing arm, if not set up to compensate for that. I have installed the trailing arms facing rearward on the tongue to over come this issue.

In general most Reese systems were never set up correctly because of the time required to do it. It can take hours because of the interaction of all of the adjustments, hitch head angle, ball height, cam to bar location, and chain length.
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