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AWCHIEF · 07-22-2014, 11:25 AM

What year did Airstream go to the 88xxxx series coupler? I am picking up a 2006 Safari SE 23 this weekend and hope to be able to use the Andersen system.

HowieE · 07-22-2014, 12:01 PM

Mike

I can't answer the question directly but my 91 Atwood failed and was replaced with a Quick Bite.

What I would suggest is just weld a short chain to the side of the coupler with a safety clip on the lower end and put an eye bolt on the triangular plate. Clip the chain to the plate and even if the Atwood failed the trailer could not come off the ball.

You would see the failed shark tab and know it was time to replace the coupler

Phodeaux · 07-22-2014, 01:34 PM

I have the Anderson installed on my 25FB and it seems to be working as advertised. NOW I am concerned about my hitch type! I did see something in the instructions regarding the Atwood, but I sort of blew it off since I have an Airstream, not an Atwood...

So NOW I did a search and found lots of references in forums regarding the hitch and coupler. I looked at the Atwood site and so far I have been unable to find anywhere that would help me identify the hitch! I see old rusty images, but I see no name or any other identification on mine. Is there a quick way of identifying the Atwood?

Mine looks like this:

SafariBez · 07-22-2014, 01:52 PM

Based on your photo I believe your hitch is the Atwood 88xxx series coupler. My 30' Intl has the 88007. My 2007 Safari also had the Atwood. I have used the Andersen hitch on both trailers and have traveled 20,000+ miles without any sign of abnormal wear. It is a great lightweight hitch for a reasonable price. I respect the warnings, and have added a chain over the top of the coupler that attaches to the triangle plate.

I once took my trailer to a respected trailer guy and expert welder. I explained the situation with the Atwood couplers, and he wasn't buying any of it, and basically refused to change out my coupler.

Just add a chain over the coupler, check it daily, and enjoy your travels. As I say, I respect the warnings, but I do not believe them.

HowieE · 07-22-2014, 01:56 PM

If you look at the coupling with the tab pulled up you will see a flat piece attached to the tab used to pull the pawl up away from the ball. To the left and attached to the top of the coupler you will see the Shark fin used to secure the tab from going up unless you have pulled the tab forward allowing it to clear the Shark fin. It is the front lower edge of the Shark fin that shears off over time allowing the tab to rise freely and releasing the grip that the pawl had on the ball. Note a small part of the forward edge of the Shark fin has sheared off

Once this has happened the tongue could pop free of the ball. While that is quite unlikely because of the tongue weight one should consider that as a failed system and replace it with something that will not fail in that mode. A Quick Bite coupler is designed to accept the reward force the Andersen applied to the coupler and thus why thus of us that have seen this problem have replaced the coupler.

You might consider my suggestion in post #182 of this tread. I live in New Jersey and the roads here and in Pa. are so bad I could not rise traveling with a failed coupler so I changed it out before I left Fl. once I saw it had failed

AWCHIEF · 07-22-2014, 03:17 PM

Can someone post a photo of the chain mod?

SafariBez · 07-22-2014, 03:31 PM

I am at home and not hitched up, so can't send photo. My chain attaches to the anchors on either side of the triangle plate. It goes over the top of the coupler behind the latch. It is not stretched tight, but tight enough. Just visualize what would happen if the latch failed and nothing was holding the coupler on the ball. The chain just needs to restrict the coupler from rising all the way to the top of the ball.

Phodeaux · 07-22-2014, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SafariBez

I am at home and not hitched up, so can't send photo. My chain attaches to the anchors on either side of the triangle plate. It goes over the top of the coupler behind the latch. It is not stretched tight, but tight enough. Just visualize what would happen if the latch failed and nothing was holding the coupler on the ball. The chain just needs to restrict the coupler from rising all the way to the top of the ball.

Sounds like this would be something Anderson could provide to owners of their product.

There MAY be a liability issue if the chain failed though...

idroba · 07-22-2014, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

What year did Airstream go to the 88xxxx series coupler? I am picking up a 2006 Safari SE 23 this weekend and hope to be able to use the Andersen system.

Airstream has been using the Atwood coupler in question for many many years. My 1974 Argosy had one, as does my 2014 Airstream. I think they go back to about the time they started using 2 5/16 balls, rather than the 2" ball, sometime in the late '60s.

Since most dealers have the hitches drop shipped from the Andersen factory either directly to you (if you ordered on the net) or to their own place of business, you probably will get all the latest upgrades automatically, but it never hurts to ask when ordering. It appears that the new chain brackets are good for frame depths up to 6", that is they have many more holes than the original ones. It looks like they fit most everything now but I have not checked the Andersen website.

AWCHIEF · 07-22-2014, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idroba

Airstream has been using the Atwood coupler in question for many many years. My 1974 Argosy had one, as does my 2014 Airstream. I think they go back to about the time they started using 2 5/16 balls, rather than the 2" ball, sometime in the late '60s.

Since most dealers have the hitches drop shipped from the Andersen factory either directly to you (if you ordered on the net) or to their own place of business, you probably will get all the latest upgrades automatically, but it never hurts to ask when ordering. It appears that the new chain brackets are good for frame depths up to 6", that is they have many more holes than the original ones. It looks like they fit most everything now but I have not checked the Andersen website.

I am in the fortunate position as a long time customer of the company to be able to order directly from Dave. I will give him a call as soon as I pick up my trailer and order my new system. I need to make some measurements before ordering. My new trailer has an old fashioned heavy, greasy, noisy, steel bar WD system installed that will be removed and replaced as soon as possible. I left my previous Andersen WD system on my Bambi II when I sold it. It had all the current upgrades.

xrvr · 07-23-2014, 05:17 AM

Chief, what did you buy!? Jim

AWCHIEF · 07-23-2014, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi

Chief, what did you buy!? Jim

If all goes well a 2006 23ft Safari SE/LS w/L-couch, no dinette.

franklyfrank · 07-23-2014, 09:52 AM

The problem with the Atwood 88xxxx ( on my 2013 30'int 880007) is not just the safety latch. The Ball does not seat as deep in it as it does in the Atwood MPD 81911 recommended by Anderson. I to solved the safety latch problem but just out of curiosity did order the MPD 81911 to compare. It cost $ 40.00 for my education. Once I physically compared the two without hesitation I decided to remove the 88007 and installed the MPD 81911. Since it is sitting deeper and covers the ball more completely I get much better performance out the entire set up. Total cost with welding came to $ 190.00.

TavnAsh · 07-24-2014, 02:43 PM

Anybody have some input on if quickbite is still in business?? I think I am going to go the Anderson route but have the atwood 82xx... If quickbite out, u gents reccomend just going the atwood 81xxx or a bulldog?

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HowieE · 07-24-2014, 02:52 PM

Yes they are but have been sold to Leppert. Google quick bite and you will see several options.

TavnAsh · 07-24-2014, 02:53 PM

Thanks, u like yours I have been reading? Best option u think?

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TavnAsh · 07-25-2014, 01:22 PM

I just ordered an Anderson weight distribution and a bulldog 15k coupler... This shall be added to the new 16" LT commercial tires, hopefully making the rig ready for an epic 6 week trip we have planned in a few weeks!!

idroba · 07-25-2014, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TavnAsh

I just ordered an Anderson weight distribution and a bulldog 15k coupler... This shall be added to the new 16" LT commercial tires, hopefully making the rig ready for an epic 6 week trip we have planned in a few weeks!!

You may need to lengthen the chains on the Andersen as the Bulldog coupler is several inches longer than the original coupler, and the brackets to hold the chains can't be moved much due to the gas tank location.

It is not a problem to change the chain length, just a heads up that you probably will need to do it.

TavnAsh · 07-26-2014, 05:05 AM

I am planning on having the welding shop put a bead on the anderson brackets when they are in place... So I will just put them in the best location and match the chain after they are set. I honestly never gave the chain a thought, so I am glad you brought that up, thanks!!

HowieE · 07-26-2014, 08:57 AM

Please note.

Andersen has moved the Allen set screw to the top of the brackets. This means the brackets will rotate against that point and self lock against the lower bracket bolt. Do not weld in place as there should no longer a need. If by chance, and using the new angled brackets, it looks like the chains will not line up with the brackets when tensioned and you have to weld the lower end of the brackets do it by welding a stop block to the trailer frame and have the Andersen bracket come to rest against that block. Welding the hitch in place is a one time deal you may regret later.

Also when installing the coupler make sure it is positioned using the jack post as the locator. If the welder just slaps it onto the frame odds are the jack post will not go back on. This may require additional material welder to the lower edge of the coupler as there will be a space there. Not a big deal if you know about this before any welding.