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Old 11-11-2013, 01:47 PM   #71
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Did they solve the issue with the hitch coupler?
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:55 PM   #72
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The coupling problem is not an Andersen problem that can solve. The problem is the Atwood coupler that Airstream uses will fail with an Andersen type system. Several Airstreamers have solved the problem by installing a different coupler
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Old 11-15-2013, 05:17 PM   #73
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Wink, will ya

I have now towed over 10,000 miles w/ the Andersen Hitch. I had a 74, 31 ft Sovereign Airstream and logged-in about 2000 miles equipped w/ the stock coupler, Marvel and installed the Andersen w/ only the set-screws as per manual except for the inside brackets wherein I flipped the brackets that the set-screws were on the top part of the frame opposing the bottom set-screws of the outside brackets. Did send pics on the original thread if you care to look. I did trade-in my 31 footer for a 25' Flying Cloud this year Sept, installed a Quick bite coupler. I made minor changes such as replacing those quick-link chain type provided by the QB welder as it was too long exposing 11 threads beyond the ratchet socket limits provided by Andersen w/ those shorter screw pin anchor shackle links identical to the one mounted on the triangular plate thus have 4 of those extensions, 2 per side and it has worked well. Now my ideal thread count is 6. My TV is a 2000, Dodge, Durango SUV equipped w/ the complete tow package, 5.9L, 4W, and a dream Airstream towing machine. It's less than the GCWR if you're into that school but it's performed so well for me. GAWR is over 1700 lbs for the rear so plenty there. I still have the original shocks of over 150k miles which is long overdue for replacement but I prefer the little rear squat as long as I meet the Andersen 1" or lower front fender requirement. I' m about 1/2" lower in the rear than supposedly ideal but I find the settings optimal for my towing. Never towed w/ a pick-up truck but not sure that it compares to my Durango SUV or SUV's in general. Another thread comparing trucks to suv's for Airstream towing if not already in place is good to have. As to shocks, I think that it matters what your TV shocks have for your utilization. Suppose if you have those adjustable one's then you can dial-in your preferences. I may change my shocks to the heavy duty and not the medium old softy one's because the marriage of the Andersen and Airstreaming inspired me to travel more extensively. Places like Mexico, Canada, Alaska, South America after going to all the contiguous US is now possible. Do not need to rehash the benefits of the Andersen albeit being true, just visit their Web page. I experimented w/ my Andersen Hitch going from California to the East Coast, finding that sweet spot, That oneness feeling of TV/TT. I have driven it w/ the bushings compressed over the 1/4" compression removing some of the rear squat from soft shocks and I must say that it felt very good though compressing the bushings beyond 1/4" takes some effort and it widens beyond the big washers, not a pretty site but yet an excellent ride. Keeping the bushing compression 1/4" or less is optimal. Tried different thread counts and found 6 complete exposed threads gave me that smooth, quiet, oneness feel possible w/ an Andersen. For the first time my wife even drove which is such a big deal in this household tho for less than 50 miles. Perhaps sharing the wheel in the future is possible, wishful thinking, I know, surely on an emergency situation it's a good thing. I'm sure you good drivers know this and luckily I've learned my lesson unscathed from momentary dosing off while driving. I was nursing a cold and had taken some medication and had pushed driving longer than I should have and so dosed off, hit those noisy rumble road strips to the right shoulder that startled me awake. Happened on the very first leg of our X-country trip, near the Donner summit, Ca headed to Reno, NV. Instinctively over-steered jerking the steering wheel left then right trying to get back w/in my lane and all I could think about is thank goodness for the Andersen. I'm not saying that the other bar type hitches might not have behaved as well, I don't know that, from an empirical perspective, I know that the Andersen did for me. I immediately apologized to my wife, stopped asap, rested, got some coffee, learned my lesson. I felt so guilty, a stupid idiot and vowed not to push driving duration more than is safe and be aware of the side effects of medication that one takes. Needless to say the rest of the trip went so well under all sorts of conditions. Hitches, couplers are no longer a concern for me but the joy of Airstreaming is, us we all share here. Thus give another Airstreamer a headlight wink or wave as you see them while driving or a hi in RV parks as they're a special breed, notwithstanding of their hitches.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:46 AM   #74
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Yesterday I swapped my F150 for a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4X4 5.7 Hemi. It has the air suspension. What are the procedures for properly setting up a weight distribution system with this suspension. I would prefer to continue to use my current Andersen (if it is even needed). My thinking is that even if it is not needed for weight distribution that I might be able to use the system for sway control.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:49 AM   #75
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Look to threads by idroba
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:57 AM   #76
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Slow, thank you. I just discovered his threads and am currently working my way thru them. Looks like lots of good info within them.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:07 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Yesterday I swapped my F150 for a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4X4 5.7 Hemi. It has the air suspension. What are the procedures for properly setting up a weight distribution system with this suspension. I would prefer to continue to use my current Andersen (if it is even needed). My thinking is that even if it is not needed for weight distribution that I might be able to use the system for sway control.
Hi, my Lincoln has rear air suspension and my owner's manual tells how to do it. It's a bit tricky, but you will get used to it. For example: do not open the rear doors because this causes the rear air suspension to drop slightly.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:57 PM   #78
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I will repeat the Air Suspension information for the Grand Cherokee. Mine is a 2012 Overland. I suspect this information will also work for the newer ones, and for the half ton RAM trucks which are now using Air Suspension. I caution readers who are not familiar with this system that it is NOT the same as other air suspension systems you may have seen in the past. It is not a helper system, but replaces the springs and shocks totally and is integrated fully with the other computer driven systems in the GC.

First: find a dead level spot big enough for your TV and Trailer. Unhook the trailer, move the TV away a few feet. The dead level spot is critical as the Air Suspension system automatically tries to "look pretty" by adjusting the individual wheels to compensate for varying irregularity in the level of the parking spot. So, you need a level parking spot to start with. Let the rig idle for a few minutes allowing it to set it's level.

Second: Turn the Air Suspension system off (on the GC, press the up and down buttons at the same time for 10 seconds). Measure the fender heights above the ground and record. Back up to the trailer, raise the tongue and re couple, carefully dropping the tongue on the ball

Third: measure the fender well drop, then use your weight distribution hitch system to bring the fender measurements back to the original measurements, or as close as possible.

Forth: Drive away. The Air Suspension will automatically turn back on by itself in a short time.

Now, I would also advise checking your system by doing the same thing at a scale, only this time you can do before and after weights on all axels. I actually started by doing this at a closed Idaho Department of Transportation scale, which they leave on all the time and you can play to your heart's content. Once I was comfortable with the weights, I found that you can also rely on the fender measurement system to work quite well, that is the settings work out about the same, at least with my rig.

The Air Suspension system on the GC will hold the rear end of the rig high and level all by itself, even without a WD hitch system, but trust me, you will easily overload your rear axle and under load the front, if you don't follow the above system and don't use a WD hitch. It will look level and hold level, but that does not mean it is right and that the axels are not overloaded in the rear and underloaded in the front. Scale measurements will show that to be true.

I hope that helps some more.

For the record, I have done this with both an old round bar WD hitch setup and the Andersen. I use the Andersen now almost exclusively with excellent results. My tongue weights are in the 700# range on both of my 20' trailers.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:58 PM   #79
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Bob, thanks but I got it sorted out. Trick is to set vehicle at Normal height. Turn off system by depressing both the up and down buttons at the same time for 10 seconds. Hook up and adjust as normal. System will automatically turn it self back on when vehicle reaches 15 mph. I tried the the procedure this afternoon and it works perfectly. Time will tell but it looks like the Grand Cherokee in combination with the Andersen WD System going to be another excellent TV for my little Bambi II.

Idroba, we were posting at the same time. thank you for info. I read many of your previous post on the subject today. It made the setup painless.
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Old 01-04-2014, 05:53 PM   #80
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Well darn! While attempting to set up my new Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Andersen I discovered that I am going to have to order a new 8 inch drop bar. I did not realize that the Jeep receiver set up was 4 inches higher than on the Ford. I was hoping to be able to use the Andersen for my trip to Canopener next week. Going to give Andersen a call bright and early and see about getting a new drop bar. I doubt that they can get one on time to use for the trip. No worries, I have a standard bar with 8 inch drop that I can use until the Andersen bar is deliveredI took a couple of mile drive towing the trailer around. It did not feel too bad but I would feel better with a bit of WD and sway control.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:13 PM   #81
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MIKE

Ask them if the is a dealer closer that you could pick up or could ship on a shorter schedule.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:34 PM   #82
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Michael; when I bought my Andersen, I ordered through their rep that was located in Mississippi. She covered the center of the US; border to border.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:25 PM   #83
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Michael; when I bought my Andersen, I ordered through their rep that was located in Mississippi. She covered the center of the US; border to border.
mike
Who was that? I have always been able to deal directly with Dave Andersen. I have a feeling that having it sent overnight would cost as much as the bar itself. If I have too I can make due without it for this trip. If I order on Monday it will be waiting for me when I get back home the following Tuesday. If there is someone local that has one in stock that would be the perfect solution. I do know of one local performance/off-road shop here that sells Andersen fifth wheel systems. I know that they do not stock the WD system. They might have the bar as it is used for Andersens other tow balls also.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:26 PM   #84
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It was 2 years ago. When I called Andersen, my call was forwarded to that person and I ordered through her. I thought it was interesting that I had to order though Mississippi.
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