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Old 05-31-2014, 04:42 PM   #169
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Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
For others that may be installing a Quick Bite coupler. You do not have to move the Andersen brackets. The addition of a standard chain coupling will make up the difference.
I considered that, but the ones I found at Home Depot didn't look as strong as my chain did, even the largest they had. Also, when I moved the brackets it improved my overall setup. The length of the chain and the crossbeam location had limited me. I think it depends on each individual setup. But that is certainly an option for some.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:59 PM   #170
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Originally Posted by Rich of SCal View Post
I considered that, but the ones I found at Home Depot didn't look as strong as my chain did, even the largest they had. Also, when I moved the brackets it improved my overall setup. The length of the chain and the crossbeam location had limited me. I think it depends on each individual setup. But that is certainly an option for some.
You could use a grade 70 twin clevis hook ? ( you won't be finding that at home depot though )

Twin Clevis Link - Grade 70- 3/8"
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:08 PM   #171
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You could use a grade 70 twin clevis hook ? ( you won't be finding that at home depot though )

Twin Clevis Link - Grade 70- 3/8"
I could have. But since I was having the quickbite welded on anyway, it was easier and neater to have the brackets relocated and welded at the same time. Now I have a neat and consistent installation.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:59 AM   #172
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I still have room for some forward adjustment in my bracket placement so I'm hoping that since they are not welded I can slide them forward a bit. If not I do have the coupling links to add. We'll see when it happens. I'll take a closer look and see if I will have the room for a couple of inches of adjustments.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:03 PM   #173
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I am convinced that the Anderson will work for my application and have purchased but not yet installed one. I have a question re the ball mount. As I understand it the ball is mounted on a tapered shaft inserted into a tapered lined hole and attached to the TV. Either the chain bracket or a collar keeps it from coming out. I have seen a video and posts suggesting lifting the hitch with the trailer mechanism, effectively "lifting" the TV and removing tension on the chains. The chain bracket can then be removed. Got it.

But... What keeps the ball and tapered shaft from pulling out of the stinger when there is no collar or chain bracket? If it is tight enough to hold itself in place, what is the need of the collar? I thought of this after leaving the Anderson at the dealer for installation on the Airstream I just purchased.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:12 PM   #174
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I have the older Anderson hitch with the ring and pin. I believe the newer design has a snap ring to prevent the tapered ball assembly from lifting out of the mount with no weight on the ball. Check where the tapered shaft goes out the bottom of the mount. I think you will find a lock ring above where the collar for the chain assembly is connected.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:13 AM   #175
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I also have the older Andersen, and am pretty sure the design has changed as TG Twinkie explained. I will be going to the Andersen factory in Idaho Falls in a couple of weeks for some newer parts for my unit, and will find out what is the exact situation at that time, and post it.
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:22 AM   #176
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Yes i talked to Jason, at the factory, last week and they have added the C ring to the shaft. This now allows one to lift the TV & trailer while attached and thus reduce the chain tension enough to drop the triangle plate. This means you should not have to retention each time y0u hook up.

Those with the older version might consider what I did to allow this usage. I drilled a hole through the bottom of the shaft and put a 5/16 roll pin through it. I did have to grind out clearance for the pin in the top of the triangle plate.

Note the roll pin up close to the bottom of the head. This also eliminates the need to carry the extras collar as no one is going to be able to remove the ball shaft while you are unhitched.
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:34 AM   #177
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Thanks for the responses. I will sleep better tonight!
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:33 PM   #178
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I was able to stop at the Andersen Factory in Idaho Falls ID today. I have an original edition Andersen, and I am on my 3rd towing season with it. I have the Argosy with me today, on the way to the RMVAC rally in Gunnison. I probably have towed about 12,000 miles with both the trailers so far and still find it to be a wonderfully satisfactory hitch. I love the light weight, and excellent sense of stability, as if the TV and trailer are acting as one, something I had never felt with my older hitches (Reese and Draw Tight).

Trailer weight is 4200 # on the Argosy and 5200 # on the Airstream. Both have a 700# tongue weight as loaded for towing. I have done scale measurements and can move enough weight to the front of the 2012 Jeep GC and back to the trailer axle, so that I am well within the load capacity of each set of wheels. Handling is superb. Not the slightest indication of sway, or front end float in any wind, truck passing or any other situation.

The friction material was slowly extruding on my old ball shank, and as it had the older design, nothing prevented the tapered shaft from popping out of the socket if you lifted the trailer with the tongue jack. The new ones have a large C clip to prevent that, and thus the extrusion of the friction material. I also had the original 90 degree square sockets on the chain holders, and there was some issue with wear on them and creaking noises.

Dave came out to look at my rig and I told him how great the hitch had been preforming for me. He said, rather than replacing the friction material, he wanted me to have the new design C clip ball and shaft. He also wanted me to have new chain brackets which are not only longer, but have the tapered square tube mounting. He went inside and got me all the parts and brought them out for me to install later. They were test parts and used once only. Although I expected to pay for them, he wanted me to have them at no charge.

What a great company and people who run and own it. I now have all the latest updates on an already great hitch. I hope to get time at Gunnison to install them for the trip home.

Dave said the WD hitch is selling very very well and they are expending their production capacity on it and all their hitch product and new leveler products.

Oh, they also liked my solution to the Atwood coupler issue which I have on both of my rigs, Argosy and Airstream. I simply slightly enlarged the coupler lock hole to 3/8 inch and put a 3/8 pin or bolt through it. That way there is no possible way the tang can come loose or wear off. A snug fitting pin or bolt and nothing can move. Not a slight indication of wear in either coupler, about 6000 miles on each one. That solution was not my original idea, someone else here on the net suggested it. Thanks.

So, once again, great hitch, great company service. A very happy camper here. Can't say enough good about the hitch, Dave and others at Andersen for their product and attitude toward this customer. (now, I am from Idaho....LOL).
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:16 AM   #179
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Great thread!

Do you know if the hitches with the new design features are currently available? Just wondering if I purchase one now if I'll get the old or new hitch?

Also, how do you know if you have an Atwood coupler or not?

Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:30 AM   #180
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The New ball shaft has been out for some time now. With that said if you buy from a Dealer you would have to ask to check before going home as his stock might be Old.

The couple will have the name Atwood stamped on the top just forward of the jack post
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:25 PM   #181
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What year did Airstream go to the 88xxxx series coupler? I am picking up a 2006 Safari SE 23 this weekend and hope to be able to use the Andersen system.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:01 PM   #182
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Mike

I can't answer the question directly but my 91 Atwood failed and was replaced with a Quick Bite.

What I would suggest is just weld a short chain to the side of the coupler with a safety clip on the lower end and put an eye bolt on the triangular plate. Clip the chain to the plate and even if the Atwood failed the trailer could not come off the ball.

You would see the failed shark tab and know it was time to replace the coupler
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