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HowieE · 11-13-2014, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idroba

I eliminated the motion by adopting another forum poster's idea of simply drilling out the coupler ball lock holes so they are both exactly 3/8" and pinning them together with a 3/8" bolt or pin while in use. With no movement, the fin cannot wear or move forward and all is well. The slop in the original un-pinned system allowed both movement and potential wear on the fin.

Very interesting point. My fin had failed before that option had been suggested.
Please keep us up to day on your history as this may negate the need to change couplers if do at the time of installation of an Andersen.

Yes periodic inspection of an Atwood is a good idea. Years ago the complete innards of mine fell out while uncoupling

dkottum · 11-13-2014, 12:54 PM

Advising using the standard Airstream Atwood coupler with the Andersen hitch is dangerous. The Andersen manufacturer warns against it.

If the coupler mechanism fails with a conventional spring bar hitch, the clamping configuration of the spring bars will prevent the hitch from uncoupling. If the coupler mechanism with a Andersen hitch (which has no spring bars while the unique design contributes to its probability of failure) there is nothing to prevent you from going down the road with an uncoupled trailer.

Loss of that extra measure of safety that spring bars provide against the failure of a coupler allowing uncoupling for any reason, as described in recent posts, ought to be considered when choosing a Andersen hitch.

HowieE · 11-13-2014, 01:39 PM

Advising using the standard Airstream Atwood coupler with the Andersen hitch is dangerous. The Andersen manufacturer warns against it.

Andersen posted this comment in their manual after several users had experienced failure of an Atwood coupler. It was post not as a blanket limitation to the use of the Andersen hitch but more like the advise that car makers put on their diesel fueled vehicles "Diesel Only". Some are considering that as a means of discrediting the Andersen altogether. The Atwood coupler referred to in this comment is not the only coupling used in the RV industry and should not be considered as a limiting statement. Yes within this Forum it is the common couple used on Airstream and one should consider tha point when selecting a hitch system.

If the coupler mechanism fails with a conventional spring bar hitch, the clamping configuration of the spring bars will prevent the hitch from uncoupling. If the coupler mechanism with a Andersen hitch (which has no spring bars while the unique design contributes to its probability of failure) there is nothing to prevent you from going down the road with an uncoupled trailer.

If you are using an Andersen hitch with an Atwood coupler and if the fin did shear off there is NO immediate fear of uncoupling of the trailer from the TV because of the downward pressure of the tongue weight. I drove mine in a failed mode, through out the south, before I changed the coupler and returning to the pot hole infested roads of New Jersey.

Loss of that extra measure of safety that spring bars provide against the failure of a coupler allowing uncoupling for any reason, as described in recent posts, ought to be considered when choosing a Andersen hitch.

Yes a spring bar system will provide additional downward force on the ball. However that additional load will cause a harsher ride overall. That Spring function of a ba sytdtem and the resulting resonant frequency of the bars being close to that of the resonant frequency of road condition at certain speeds is what produces purposing.

There is no clear choice when it comes to selecting a hitch system. Each individual has to made that decision based on several factors. After 40+ years of towing a range of trailers I have found the Andersen to be the hitch of choice for my current rig, based on cost, quality of ride, improved sway control, and easy of operation.

dkottum · 11-13-2014, 01:50 PM

Two opposing points of view for sure.

I choose to remove our Andersen hitch and install a ProPride. I can assure you the Andersen does not measure up to the confidence, performance, gentle ride, ease of use, and safety our new hitch provides.

Too each his own.

idroba · 11-13-2014, 01:52 PM

The Andersen people at the factory in Idaho Falls ID actually took photos of the bolt pin arrangement I had when I visited them this summer and thought it was a very good solution to the slight potential problem with the Atwood 87xx hitch.

The chains used on the Andersen hitch are attached with solid chain link devices on the triangle plate which is pined to the bottom of the hitch ball assembly, and are bolted to the A frame of the trailer via the frame brackets. So the chains themselves become extra "safety chains" which have no play in them. One can argue probably 10 to 20 different ways that ANY WD hitch could become detached, given some very unusual circumstances. There is no evidence that the Andersen is any more prone to detachment than any other hitch.

A defective Atwood 87xx coupler which has been used on Airstreams for years and years has the same possibility of detachment, used with any other hitch, especially on a downhill run where the trailer is pushing the tow vehicle. Apparently Airstream does not find it to be a problem, as they are using the same coupler on all Airstreams built today.

There are lots of good WD hitches out there, if one does not like some aspect of one, then choose another. It is nice that we have a choice in this country.

Siegmann · 02-27-2015, 07:22 PM

I recently got an Anderson hitch. I did not care for the bright red color of the urethane springs. A little too loud for my taste. I figured paint would not be a good idea, with the compression/expansion that these springs go through. My solution was to recycle a failed rubber inner tube from a bicycle. When cut to length, it fit perfectly (see photo). While it probably will not last long in the sun, I'm not worried; I can make more than a dozen of these out of one inner tube (which was going into the trash anyway).

dmand001 · 02-28-2015, 08:13 AM

People are just smart, I'm loving that as I love my Andersen. It does provide some protection from weather, too. Thank you for sharing.

Siegmann · 02-28-2015, 10:21 AM

Oh, forgot to mention, depending on the diameter of the inner tube, it can be a real struggle to slip it on over the spring. A little dish soap will work wonders.

SteveSueMac · 02-28-2015, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmand001

People are just smart, I'm loving that as I love my Andersen. It does provide some protection from weather, too. Thank you for sharing.

Agree! Nice job Siegmann!

Siegmann · 03-23-2015, 12:37 PM

I will not be towing with my new Andersen hitch until the end of the month, and have not yet replaced my Atwood coupler. But for those that are using their old Atwood with the Andersen hitch, I would like to repeat a tip offered quite a while ago, I believe by dmand001. As others have noted, when a ball is latched in the Atwood, it allows about a 1/4 inch up-down movement between the ball and the coupler. As I understand it, this can potentially cause the dreaded "shark fin" shear-off when underway. I stacked a few washers on top of the ball before inserting it into the coupler, as described by dmand001, and with a little experimentation with the number of washers, was able to get the ball snug, with no up-down free play. What equipment you choose to tow with is up to you, but I thought it was worthwhile to repeat this ingenious tip.

TavnAsh · 03-23-2015, 12:57 PM

I bought an Anderson last summer for our 30 Bunkhouse, 7800 lbs. We tow with a 1 Ton flatbed weighing in at 9200 lbs empty, so I never really had a sway problem. However after installing the Anderson, I have been pleasantly surprised. The truck rides smoother, and I do notice a huge increase in predictability and tracking. I no longer need to adjust steering much for passing trucks.

First thing I did prior to installing the anderson was cut off the Atwood 82xx and install a Bulldog 15k collar lock, part number 028655. With hitch and welder, I have about $130 into the new hitch. Great setup, I recommend, and I am a lot more confident in the bulldog coupler then the old atwood. There is no way to close the bulldog collar if the hitch is not on the ball correctly. If it closes, it is secure and never coming off. Period. The collar automatically locks, and even if I forget the pin, it is positive force and wedges the whole thing shut. Not coming off.... Pics follow.

dmand001 · 03-24-2015, 09:54 AM

Did just that & was planning on welding the top part of the ball slightly to alleviate that gap preventing excessive bouncing to prevent the shearing-off dilemma. It was successful for me though short term only as traded the vintage and bought a newer TT. Just for peace of mind went w/ replacing coupler altogether w/ a quickbite. Andersen's been a pleasure & g'luck w/ your situation. Please post as it does show promise.

dmand001 · 03-24-2015, 09:58 AM

Looks great.

Steamy1 · 05-17-2017, 02:29 PM

There are several threads on the Anderson Hitch, with at least one closed. So I just picked this one to see if there are any updates to the usage of the Anderson hitch over the past few years. I am considering switching from an Equalizer to the Anderson. Overall, I have been happy with the equalizer, but the cons include that it is not particularly easy to adjust and it is just plain heavy.

Any update comments would be appreciated, and I apologize if there is a newer thread on this.

Thanks,

HowieE · 05-17-2017, 02:41 PM

The only legitimate argument against the use of the Andersen on an Airstream is the cheap coupler Airstream is using.

Having been an early user of the Andersen I did experience the coupler shark fin failure and replaced the coupler with a Shark Bite, no longer available. There are several other types of coupler, including some stronger Atwoods, if the fin were to become a problem.

Lippert Industries bought the Shark Bite to shelve it as it was competition to one of their products. Another short sighted idea of American corporate philosophy much like the demise of the Jordan brake controller, which I also still use.

Contributing factors to the failure are poor roads, I live n New Jersey, and a very heavy trailer, mine is a 34 fter.

All in all even if you do replace the coupler you are ahead in all areas of consideration.

Rich of SCal · 05-17-2017, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamy1

There are several threads on the Anderson Hitch, with at least one closed. So I just picked this one to see if there are any updates to the usage of the Anderson hitch over the past few years. I am considering switching from an Equalizer to the Anderson. Overall, I have been happy with the equalizer, but the cons include that it is not particularly easy to adjust and it is just plain heavy.
Thanks,

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

The only legitimate argument against the use of the Andersen on an Airstream is the cheap coupler Airstream is using.

Having been an early user of the Andersen I did experience the coupler shark fin failure and replaced the coupler with a Shark Bite, no longer available. There are several other types of coupler, including some stronger Atwoods, if the fin were to become a problem.

I have been using it for awhile now. Just got back from a beach trip couple weeks ago. Yes, the cheap Atwood couplers are a concern, whether you use an Anderson or not. When I replaced mine with a Quickbite, I found a crack underneath, that was just waiting to cause trouble. I think the Quickbite is still being sold. It is very secure and easier to hook up than a conventional coupler, making the Anderson/Quickbite combo so much easier than my old setup, with bars, etc. For smaller Streams, like our Bambis, I know of no better way to go.

I don't know if there are any updates to Anderson, but mine is still going strong, with no signs of wearing out.

Steamy1 · 05-17-2017, 04:59 PM

Thank you for the responses!
naïve question; what is the procedure for replacing the coupler? does it take a trailer shop to torch off the original and weld a new one on?

Rich of SCal · 05-17-2017, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamy1

Thank you for the responses!
naïve question; what is the procedure for replacing the coupler? does it take a trailer shop to torch off the original and weld a new one on?

Yes. I was lucky, since I had a welder as a neighbor at the time. Any qualified welder should be able to do it, not just a trailer shop. I ordered my Quickbite online. It came with a collar that fit right over the A-frame. Took about half an hour, at most.

HowieE · 05-18-2017, 08:32 AM

The prime consideration if you replace the coupler is to place the new coupler on the tongue and put the jack down through the holes. Tack the coupler in place at that location and finish the weld install. With some couplers you may have to pad the under edge to the tongue when located this way but do it. Failure to locate the coupler this way will result in not being able to install the jack.

ttbikes · 05-18-2017, 08:34 AM

I have used the Anderson/Quickbite combo for three years and really like it. The Anderson may not transfer weight as well as some other systems but the weight transfer is well within the limits for my lightly sprung vehicle. In all other aspects, sway control, ease of use, weight, bounce, noise, I think it is superior.