Andersen No Sway Weight Distribution

[TavnAsh]

Originally Posted by HowieE

Please note.

Andersen has moved the Allen set screw to the top of the brackets. This means the brackets will rotate against that point and self lock against the lower bracket bolt. Do not weld in place as there should no longer a need. If by chance, and using the new angled brackets, it looks like the chains will not line up with the brackets when tensioned and you have to weld the lower end of the brackets do it by welding a stop block to the trailer frame and have the Andersen bracket come to rest against that block. Welding the hitch in place is a one time deal you may regret later.

Also when installing the coupler make sure it is positioned using the jack post as the locator. If the welder just slaps it onto the frame odds are the jack post will not go back on. This may require additional material welder to the lower edge of the coupler as there will be a space there. Not a big deal if you know about this before any welding.

Thanks for the info!!! I was just thing of cutting and grinding the old coupler completely off, would you recommend just keeping it on? Also the post before yours mentioned lengthening the chains, looks like. I can't swap them out, what type of link would you use to get some more length out of the chains? Thanks again for the info, probably saved me some serious time and errors!

[HowieE]

You won't know what has to be cut off of the old coupler till you have the new coupler in your hands. All I had to cut off was the ball socket and place the new coupler so the jack post holes line up.

You can extend the chains with a Safety Chain Quick Link.
etrailer.com - Products chain link

In my case one line was a perfect length and still allowed me to use the Andersen tread count on the adjustment. Keep in mind you do not have to use those settings, they are arbitrary, you just have to be able to put enough load on the chains to get the transfer you are looking for.

Another thing you will soon find useful. When hooking up and at an angle different to that when you dropped the trailer. You can adjust the chains to different setting side to side to allow you to put the plate on. The plate does not have to be square to the tongue..That to is arbitrary just as long as you set then to transfer the desired load.

You will not realize the advantages of this hitch until you use it for a while.

[TavnAsh]

Originally Posted by HowieE

You won't know what has to be cut off of the old coupler till you have the new coupler in your hands. All I had to cut off was the ball socket and place the new coupler so the jack post holes line up.

You can extend the chains with a Safety Chain Quick Link.
etrailer.com - Products chain link

In my case one line was a perfect length and still allowed me to use the Andersen tread count on the adjustment. Keep in mind you do not have to use those settings, they are arbitrary, you just have to be able to put enough load on the chains to get the transfer you are looking for.

Another thing you will soon find useful. When hooking up and at an angle different to that when you dropped the trailer. You can adjust the chains to different setting side to side to allow you to put the plate on. The plate does not have to be square to the tongue..That to is arbitrary just as long as you set then to transfer the desired load.

You will not realize the advantages of this hitch until you use it for a while.

Thanks, I just ordered the 1/2 chain links incase I need them. I am really looking forward to trying out the hitch. I read most of the longer threads about the hitch and decided on paper it was a better design idea for our application. I will get some pictures up of the install and a good report of the hitch, it's first test will be over 3500 miles, south FL to PA and back via a good portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Keep those tips coming!!!

[mireille]

Hello, I just read about your visit at Andersen factory.Do you have photo about your coupler fixed to your WD and the security you fixed on the coupler. I just bought a WD 3350 for my new 2014 International 27 FB and want to be sure to be safe.
Thanks,
Mireille
mireilleverdi@hotmail.com

[Cody1774]

I thought I would post here to get some advice on my hitch. I drive a 2013 GMC Denali 2500HD, and will be pulling a 2015 Open Range TT (approx 9500 lbs UVW, approx 37' total). I'm going to be picking up the TT this weekend and need to make a decision on hitch pretty soon. Basically my options are Anderson No Sway W/D or a Husky W/D hitch for considerably less. The first reviews I saw on Amazon were very strong, but after reading some message boards there seems to be a fair amount of critics.

Is the Anderson worth the price? Is it effective W/D? Is the No-Sway effective?

I will definitely be traveling in the Rocky Mountains (right out my backdoor), and would like to travel into the United States as well. Basically, I don't want to be restricted to light, easy haul routes. Thanks

[n2916s]

There are hundreds and hundreds of posts here about the Anderson. Many satisfied users (see the post two above yours). Also many detractors who claim that the hitch didn't work for them.

Kind of like asking "Protestant or Catholic" -- fervent adherents on both sides.

There is no consensus so you are basically on your own.

Mike

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Cody1774

I thought I would post here to get some advice on my hitch. I drive a 2013 GMC Denali 2500HD, and will be pulling a 2015 Open Range TT (approx 9500 lbs UVW, approx 37' total). I'm going to be picking up the TT this weekend and need to make a decision on hitch pretty soon. Basically my options are Anderson No Sway W/D or a Husky W/D hitch for considerably less. The first reviews I saw on Amazon were very strong, but after reading some message boards there seems to be a fair amount of critics.

Is the Anderson worth the price? Is it effective W/D? Is the No-Sway effective?

I will definitely be traveling in the Rocky Mountains (right out my backdoor), and would like to travel into the United States as well. Basically, I don't want to be restricted to light, easy haul routes. Thanks

Hi there.

One overarching thought - with a new truck and trailer which certainly cost a pretty penny, you may be best served by making the hitch decision based on functionality first and cost dead last. Amortized over say 10 years of ownership of your rig, even an expensive ProPride at $2500 is only going to cost you $20/month. An Andersen at $500 will cost you about $5/month and a $100 hitch is going to be less than $1/mo. Given what you'll spend in fuel, camping reservations, bundle firewood at campsites, etc., this is one safety area that shouldn't be a target for skimping.

That said, I'm spending your money, so.... :-)

With a TT that large you will likely be over 1000# tongue weight and unfortunately, the Andersen does not have the capability of distributing a lot of weight back to the front axles. Even though I don't have one, I've been know to recommend it as an option for people with 3/4 ton trucks that require 50% front axle load restoration and a smaller trailer. When you connect that trailer, you're going to lift several hundred pounds off the front axle which will negatively affect your ability to steer.

I wouldn't recommend it for your setup. There are lots of choices. I use and would happily recommend the ProPride (I'm not affiliated with them in any way) as it prevents sway from happening and you can dial in the exact amount of weight distribution you need but it is expensive and heavy. Other choices would be good for your rig as well. Tons of information here... Good luck!

[Cody1774]

I appreciate your response, Steve. Unfortunately, I feel like time wasn't on my side and I phoned the dealer to get the Anderson prepared for my pick up on Saturday. I didn't have much for options from my dealer and after spending what I did on my holiday trailer I was able to get a few hundred dollars off of the Anderson. I will give it a test drive on Saturday as I tow my rig a few hundred miles home. I guess it isn't the end of the world if I feel like I need something better down the road. Cheers

[SteveSueMac]

No problem, Cody...


If you have the opportunity, try to hit the cat scales and see how much weight is being distributed with the hitch. Your truck's manual will tell you what percent front load restoration it wants for the trailer and tongue weight you have.

Good luck!

[Rendrag]

Cody, if your 2500HD is anything like mine, GM does not require a WD hitch for your application. I am not saying they are a bad thing, just that GM engineers are not nearly as worried about front axle weight restoration as some of the posters on here. But what do they know? I think you will enjoy the many benefits of the Andersen. Let us know how it works out.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Rendrag

Cody, if your 2500HD is anything like mine, GM does not require a WD hitch for your application. I am not saying they are a bad thing, just that GM engineers are not nearly as worried about front axle weight restoration as some of the posters on here. But what do they know? I think you will enjoy the many benefits of the Andersen. Let us know how it works out.

Actually - that's a good point. My GM2500 manual says for trailers up to 18000#, a WD hitch is optional. By there's another section of the manual with a much more complicated chart that shows when 0%, 50% or 100% FALR is required even for trailers as light as mine (5800#, >1000# tongue needs 50% FALR).

OP should check the manual. Maybe this will work after all! Also - double check Andersen's website - there's a specific coupler they don't want you to connect to. That's been discussed here too.

[Rendrag]

Not that it matters, since Cody has a 2500HD, but the percentages quoted (50 & 100) are for the Silverado 1500 in the 2013 owner's manual. Other years may be different.

[Cody1774]

I appreciate the responses. I've done a quick reference to one of my manuals, but the chart only shows Max Trailer Weight (15,800#, limited to 13,000# with conventional hitch) and GCWR (24,500#). W/D hitch is optional and I am to refer to the trailer manufacturer's recommendation for hitch distribution.

[Ron Gratz]

Originally Posted by Cody1774

I appreciate the responses. I've done a quick reference to one of my manuals, but the chart only shows Max Trailer Weight (15,800#, limited to 13,000# with conventional hitch) and GCWR (24,500#). W/D hitch is optional and I am to refer to the trailer manufacturer's recommendation for hitch distribution.

I doubt that the trailer manufacturer will provide any guidance for "hitch distribution".

If you are interested in what other TV manufacturers specify --
Ford says to eliminate approximately 50% of the front-end rise. This corresponds to restoring approximately 50% of the load which was removed from the front axle (50% FALR).
Toyota indicates 100% FALR.

For guidance from WDH manufacturers --
Equal-i-zer indicates 50-100% FALR.
Reese now recommends 100% FALR.

And, Andersen says the WDH should be adjusted to make the TV "pretty close to level".
That usually implies the FALR should be more than 100%.
With your tongue weight, I doubt that can be achieved with the Andersen WDH.

Ron

[Rendrag]

"If" you purchase a Ford, I would do as Ron suggests and follow their recommendations/requirements. Last I knew, GM produced the Denali 2500HD. There are those that seem to have a lot invested in following the old system of weight distribution that was required for softly sprung automobiles and light duty pickup trucks. The Andersen would not work as well with an old Buick as the Reese WD hitches of that era.

[Siegmann]

SafariBez, did you ever get a chance to take a photo of your fix?

[2012FB]

I drove my 2012 GMC Denali 2500HD with and without WD and there was no real difference. The long wheel base of the Denali makes it harder to put weight up there through the WD. It did seem to porpoise a lot which the Anderson should help eliminate. Now that I think about it the expansion joints were easier on the rig without the WD. The class V receiver drop I needed to get to the correct height for the Airstream pushed the ball even further away from the axles. If I were to do it over I would just run a short length drop with a friction brake. Anyway I would like to know what you think of the Anderson.

[Siegmann]

idroba, I was wondering if you know of any detail reports for exactly how the Atwood coupler has failed, in the cases that it has failed. My original Airstream manual for my '98 has an exploded diagram for the Atwood coupler showing a "tongue & spring assy" within the coupler housing, where the vertical metal riser piece is attached to the "tongue" (that holds the ball) via a pin. I was wondering if the stresses of the Anderson hitch could shear this pin and allow the tongue to rise up in the housing and release the ball. If so, wear/damage here is not easy to inspect, or if it could fail, it might fail abruptly, with no visible wear to warn you.

[polarlyse]

The failures mentioned with the Atwood coupler seem to be with the " shark fin". When coupled and secure a little metal tab protrudes up for the latch to catch on. The claim is that the Anderson puts excessive force in the weight dist. action and may cause this tab to fail which loosens the latch and therefore will leave the coupler with nothing to latch it onto the ball. I still have mine and am keeping an eye on it. So far all is well after 3 yrs. and many miles towing with the Anderson. However, understanding that this failure has happened I have a new coupler to weld on just haven't done it yet. A forum contributor here, HowiE, may be able to articulate, better than I have, the failure issue, check with him if necessary.

[idroba]

The only issue I am aware of with the Atwood coupler is wear on the "shark fin" which allows the rear ball lock to move possibly unlocking the ball.

I eliminated the motion by adopting another forum poster's idea of simply drilling out the coupler ball lock holes so they are both exactly 3/8" and pinning them together with a 3/8" bolt or pin while in use. With no movement, the fin cannot wear or move forward and all is well. The slop in the original un-pinned system allowed both movement and potential wear on the fin.

I would caution any user of the Atwood coupler with any hitch type at all to periodically inspect the inner workings for wear and cracking. On my Argosy, prior to installation of the Andersen hitch, I was concerned with the sloppy ball fit in the cup. Upon degreasing and careful inspection, I found cracks in the inner cup caused by years of wear and tear on the coupler. I had it replaced with another Atwood, prior to Andersen's finding out that the fin on the newer ones was a trouble point. So, I use the enlarged and pinned hole solution on both of my Trailers, the '74 and the '14.

I have towed Airstreams and Argosy's probably 200,000 miles over the past 36 years, mostly with Reese and Draw Tight hitches. I have now towed with the Andersen 3 seasons and about 12 to 15,000 miles and find it superior in tow quality and ease of hook up. The TV and trailer tow as one unit, not two, and the trailer simply feels like an extension of the TV, rather than a separate unit.

The Trailers are both 20', both have tongue weights of about 700# as loaded for travel, and the tow vehicle is a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee. As the Jeep has total air suspension and leveling (no springs at all), I did the set up at the scales to be sure that I was transferring proper weight.

I would not go back to a conventional WD hitch after using the Andersen, and I have several I could use.