Airsafe Hitch

[uwe]

If it works as advertised, then it would have been a godsend on CA freeways.
Concrete freeways with expansion joints that are equally spaced are a nightmare for towing a trailer. I got the worst trailer tongue hop while towing around greater Los Angeles. If my new Suburban does the same thing, then I am going to budget one of those airride hitches for 2008, for sure.
My hopes are that the coil spring suspension in my 07 will be more responsive to this problem, as opposed to the stiff leaf springs in my previous Suburban. I have not towed with the new truck yet, though.

[SilverToy]

2air -

Interesting idea. Are you having 2nd thoughts on the addition of the mor-ryde or is it a timing issue? Be interested in your thoughts thinking on the pro/con cycle ... some of it is elementary but perhaps there is more?

Thanks for your always stimulating posts.

Axel
SilverToy

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by SilverToy

... Are you having 2nd thoughts on the addition of the mor-ryde or is it a timing issue?...

hi silvertoy...

it has been a timing issue mostly.

i'm traveling so much and yet have not been near an installer often...

and don't plan to do it myself, even though it's pretty easy to change out the rear shackle.

i recently ADDED another leaf to the 250 stack and am breaking it in now...

morryde pros:
-it's part of the suspension NOT part of the hitch/receiver/tongue
-always active
-truck ride improved even when NOT towing
-works with any hitch and w/d system
-models available for many vehicles
-the ride qualities of 'rubber' like henschens/dexter axles
-no adjustments based on tongue mass changes (no bladder to inflate)
-dampens 'harshness' without affecting load carrying capacity
-since it is a shackle replacement it's hidden from sticky fingers/eyes

morryde cons:
-the rubber section needs to be replaced occcasionally (3-7 year cycle)
-may need a new stinger with different drop
-limited dealer network

the air-ride won't work with a hensley without a specially fabricated stinger, and there is NO WAY i'd give up the haha...

don't forget to include the cost of a class 5 receiver with the air-ryde...

the air-ride moves the ball/tongue back/away from the axle another 10-12 inches...

so sway control systems are negatively effected. this may not be an issue with 1 ton or dually rigs...

it is readily visible to all so it must be locked or removed/hidden when not in use.

i think both approaches are worthy...

i've ridden in a 1 ton dually with the morryde and it is a significant improvement...

really the bed/rear end was very smooth, like butter!

cheers
2air'

[KeithC]

Let me get this straight. There is a new and improved $900.00 plus hitch on the market...and you get somewhat better performance.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I think the air hitches would be OK for the heavier trucks and trailers. I personally don't think it would be needed for me since my Navigator has factory rear air bag suspension. And I would be concerned the the added weight and length would cause undue twisting [up and down] of the tow vehicle's receiver.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by KeithC

Let me get this straight. There is a new and improved $900.00 plus hitch on the market...and you get somewhat better performance.

Yes, just another hitch and you might get NO better performance. Good point and I'm interested in your thoughts on what "somewhat" better performance is to you. I don't have the answer so it's your opinion.

[KeithC]

It is the old cost vs. benefit ratio formula.

If the weight distribution hitch you currently have provides good service, IE, there is equal weight divison between the TT and the TV, there is little or no sway when large semi-trailers pass, the system you have is safe and serviceable...but you hear there there is a new/ improved/ better/ hitch on the market, how do you evaluate the new hitch system?

What is the tipping point. What level of improved performance does the new hitch system features have to have to make it worth the investment costs vs. what you already own.

For me, at the cost of $900 for a new hitching system over the $300 plus I have already invested, the new system had better be 3X times as good as the safe serviceable system I currently have.

I'm a TT owner, a consumer, a non-RV industry kinda guy, not a commercial RV vendor like you with a commercial interest, so show me the real wold benifit, why should I spend $900 for a new hitch. I need some numbers to show me the difference.

[68 Overlander]

To me that was best and appropriate response so far. Thanks Keith.
I can't show you any real benefits and their may be NONE. I'm inclined to believe there is however but have no way to quantify it because I've never used it and only have a few emails and posts from people that swear by it.
I also got several referrals from folks that think we carry the line already and I've never even towed with one. I'm honestly not overly excited about them yet because they are fairly new but it's like any other new invention. I sure watched HAHA 10 years ago, not sure how many of you were there but it was the joke of the industry in my opinion. Not any more.
No question that is a lot of money but they can't keep them in stock so... I know for sure the equestrian folks gobble them for the obvious reason.
Where did you get $900. The class 6 is that much but do we really need the class 6?
Thanks for the thoughts.

[JDL]

I talked to the folks at Progress Mfg. (Equal-i-zer®) I explained that I had a very rough ride on my trailer when pulling with a full fresh water tank and full propane tanks. I pull a 19’ CCD with a 2000 ½ ton Tundra. With this configuration my tongue weight is 760 pounds. (Measured with a tongue scale at a dealer.) (Oh how I wish Airstream had made the 19’ a dual axle..)

I further explained that if I put more weight on the front axles it will stiffen up the ride so much that I start opening doors and drawers. I expect rivets to start popping… So that is not an option…

It would be nice if Progress Mfg. made an equalizing hitch with some sort of dampening mechanism integrated into the hitch, similar to the air-ride. This would be ideal.

Equal-i-zer® suggested I should look at the Air-ride hitch.

I opted for trying the Firestone air bags on the rear axle. I am hoping this will dampen out the severe bumps on the road. I plan on running them at 10 or 15 pounds. This should allow for adequate flex when I hit the bumps…

I just cannot see spending another $900 for the Air-ride configuration. There is just no reason I should need to upgrade to a class 5 hitch for a 4000 pound trailer. Also, it weighs 100 pounds. That would not be fun to take on and off.

Has anyone had positive results dampening the hard bumps on the road by adding the Firestone airbags to the rear bumper on the ½ ton truck?

Thanks

[Airstreamer67]

My Class V AirSafe hitch doesn't weight 100 lbs. Maybe 50 or so. All I know is that at age 64, I can move it from the back of my pickup and install it in the receiver without any help.

I have read reports that air bags on suspensions actually have made the suspensions stiffer, while providing additional lift. I don't know why they would. Perhaps I remember wrong. All I know is that the air bags on the hitch make the hitch ride a lot softer. That is what they were designed for, not for lifting or levelizing like the suspension designs seem to be for.

As far as the cost/benefit ratio, that is for each person to determine for him/herself. It depends. The horse-owners that use the air hitches think it's worth their horses' legs to put them on their trailers. For me, I think it's worth my trailer's frame and rivets.

Ah, so many choices. So little time.

[JDL]

Originally Posted by Airstreamer67

My Class V AirSafe hitch doesn't weight 100 lbs. Maybe 50 or so. All I know is that at age 64, I can move it from the back of my pickup and install it in the receiver without any help.

I have read reports that air bags on suspensions actually have made the suspensions stiffer, while providing additional lift. I don't know why they would. Perhaps I remember wrong. All I know is that the air bags on the hitch make the hitch ride a lot softer. That is what they were designed for, not for lifting or levelizing like the suspension designs seem to be for.

As far as the cost/benefit ratio, that is for each person to determine for him/herself. It depends. The horse-owners that use the air hitches think it's worth their horses' legs to put them on their trailers. For me, I think it's worth my trailer's frame and rivets.

Ah, so many choices. So little time.

Airstreamer67,

Thanks. I suspect that if folks are running their airbags at 70 or 80 pounds it would indeed make the suspension stiffer. If I lower it to 10 pounds. it is tough to know I have them on the rear axle. I really am looking for a way to just dampen the shocks in the road. I am pretty sure I was bottoming out on hard bumps. (Heaven forbid that my gas tax would actually go to pave a road...and smooth out a bump. ) Airstreamer67, I do appreciate the feedback.

[2airishuman]

hi jd, good 2 c ya at the beach!

didn't know you were having vibe problems...

2 suggestions...

1. scale the truck axles while hitched and back off on the spring bar tension...

until the bars are flexed the minimum required for sway control (1-2")

record the steering and drive axle loads.

then compare that to your current set up.

as an experiment, i just reduced spring bar tension to the minimum which naturally shifted axle loads a few hunded lbs.

crossed the rockies this way and if was clearly easier on the trailer front.

2. depending on your axle readings fully flexed you might reduce drive axle tire pressures some...

according to the tire chart for your goodyear/silent armor shoes...

cheers
2air'

i don't think the air bags will solve the problem, unless you also reduce spring bar tension...

[JDL]

2airishuman,

Thanks! it was good to see you at the B. Beach too! I should have mentioned the vibe problems. Sorry, I thought the leak was enough...

• My rear axle loaded is 3350. Each tire can take about 2250. I have tried lowering the tire pressure and it does help… some. But only a little.
• I have backed off on the spring bar tension pretty far. The font axle is 2700. Still get some pretty hard bumps and shakes from the road.
• I am open to trying the MOR/ryde - Products - Suspensions - Tow Vehicles springs if you try them or anybody else... Please let me know...

I have traveled with some of the rear tanks ½ full. This tends to help. But, who wants to dump as they come into the campground…

Anyway I do not want to hijack Randy’s thread here. So if any one has other ideas on the Air-ride or a way to dampen the bumps I am open to suggestions and ready to listen.

Thanks

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

hi jd, good 2 c ya at the beach!

didn't know you were having vibe problems...

2 suggestions...

1. scale the truck axles while hitched and back off on the spring bar tension...

until the bars are flexed the minimum required for sway control (1-2")

record the steering and drive axle loads.

then compare that to your current set up.

as an experiment, i just reduced spring bar tension to the minimum which naturally shifted axle loads a few hunded lbs.

crossed the rockies this way and if was clearly easier on the trailer front.

2. depending on your axle readings fully flexed you might reduce drive axle tire pressures some...

according to the tire chart for your goodyear/silent armor shoes...

cheers
2air'

i don't think the air bags will solve the problem, unless you also reduce spring bar tension...

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by craftsman

i would guess that it can't be used with a Hensley?

I'm fully aware of the HA and have nothing but total respect for what it does. That is one awesome piece of equipment, period. I don't have fishtailing issues (some call it swaying but it isn't) because I tow with a 3/4 ton truck. Yes, I can feel it back there and an 18 wheeler going around me is needed so i don't fall asleep but it's nothing a person with a driver license can't negotiate. I would love to have my pivot point and CG somewhere else but it's just not an issue. I also don't need new axles, have very few popping rivets, no professional running gear balance, tow a horse, or a need for some vendor like myself to tell me what I need. I just like the frank discussion and when the time comes that I need all of this stuff, well, I'll scrap it and buy an airplane. Ok, I'll do both.
Anyway, my point with this is that the Airsafe is a total different concept than the HA and apples to oranges in what they attempt to prevent. Ever notice they never invent anything anymore but rather hone the darn ole wheel?