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Old 10-05-2009, 10:33 PM   #85
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I will check on the filters.

I am not sure about the hitch you have but I would assume that it bolts onto a shank, if so take a look at post #42 you see how my air ride is set up with a duel cam.

Marvin
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:36 PM   #86
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It is getting to late or to much wine. It is post 43.


Marvin
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:45 PM   #87
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Airsafe with Husky WD hitch

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Originally Posted by StingrayL82 View Post
If you don't mind, that would be great, thanks.
Here you go pardner
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:51 PM   #88
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Yeah, I found the bracket to attach the Draw-Tite to, but now the question is whether I need the 12" or the 16"....I think it'll probably be the 12", since we have a Western Hauler-style bed on the truck.

Thanks.
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:55 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
... We have an 06 Tundra and 07 Safari 20 SE hitched with a 1000 lb Equal-i-zer...

... My trailer has 600 lbs tongue wt and 5000 lbs max trailer weight... Any advice on which Airsafe, or perhaps, any Airsafe?
so lets see...

---600 lb tongue and 1000 lb hitch

---last generation tundra, NOT a 3/4 or 1 ton truck

---connection too rigid?
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when the w/d bars are adjusted properly (to reload the steering axle) HOW MUCH FLEX in the w/d bars?

have u weighed the rig and assessed steering axle loads with/without w/d engaged? is the tilt at the ball correct?
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it appears the obvious solution is to first change to a hitch with LESSER rating that matches the load...

eq-iz-r makes a 600/6000 lb hitch that is closer to the trailer in question.

dual camz are also available with w/d bars closer to the needs, and with properly flexing w/b bars MIGHT be the best change.

the other hitches (haha/pp) can also be had with lighter bars that match the trailer in question.

and control sway with little or NO tension on the spring bars.
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the a/safe hitch is a good product and might be useful for big stiff trucks pulling lighter trailers.

in many of those big truck/little trailer combos w/d might not be needed, only sway control.

but this is a softly sprung, barely adequate payload tundra.

it's hard to imagine THAT truck is too much for the 20 footer.

if so the trailer frame is tooooo wimpy.
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what evidence or clues suggest that the connection is TOO stiff?
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moving the ball BACK may not matter with a bigger truck, but in this case it would seem to INVITE more yaw stress on to the truck rear.

i'd first try a different hitch or hitch/bar combo and reassess...

and the a/safe class 3/4 does look to be a better match BUT doesn't allow for w/d.

it does allow for sway control using friction based outriggers.

just some random thoughts.

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:56 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycampers View Post
I will check on the filters.

I am not sure about the hitch you have but I would assume that it bolts onto a shank, if so take a look at post #42 you see how my air ride is set up with a duel cam.

Marvin
Marvin,
Is that a Husky hitch or some other brand in post 43. Can the Reese dual cam sway control be used with WD hitches other than Reese. Can the older dual cams also be used with non Reese WD hitches?

Marshall
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Old 10-06-2009, 04:19 PM   #91
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Quote:
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Marvin,
Is that a Husky hitch or some other brand in post 43. Can the Reese dual cam sway control be used with WD hitches other than Reese. Can the older dual cams also be used with non Reese WD hitches?

Marshall



Marshall, It is a Reese, the same setup that I had before I got the Air Safe, I gave the shank away to a friend when I got the Air Safe. I don't know about the dual cam sway control, I would call Reese to be sure.

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Old 10-08-2009, 09:08 AM   #92
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Thanks to all for the help. My read on this is that my barely adequate Tundra and wimpy Safari 20 SE would not benefit from the haha/peepee/airride hitches. I think the shop set up my Equal-i-zer hitch too stiff. I loosened the bars a notch, the truck and trailer sit level, and a test drive gives a smooth ride and I am unable to induce any sway whatsoever. Headed for NM/AZ/CA (via the back roads) in a couple weeks!

Doug and Cheryl, Battle Lake, MN

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Old 10-08-2009, 12:11 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
...My read on this is that my barely adequate Tundra and wimpy Safari 20 SE would not benefit from the haha/peepee/airride hitches...
adjusting is good doug

checking axle loads (restoring steering axle load) is even better.

sorry if i wasn't clear, imv a lighter rated w/d sway control gizmo would benefit the barely adequate/wimpy combo....

and MANY folks with single axle trailers or shorter wheel base tvs...

DO improve the towing experience using hahas n peepeez...

airbag hitches help in other ways, but the focus isn't sway.

have a great southwest trip!

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:46 PM   #94
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2air, I am trying to understand your prose. I followed the guidance of the Equal-i-zer company rep by phone on readjusting my bars, and also in selecting the correct bars. It seems to be fine in handling and ride, but I suspect the Airride would make it smoother over the bumps. Would you recommend the haha/peepee (not both together, for fear of shifting the pivot point to the front axle) as a significant safety measure for our wimpy rig?
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:31 PM   #95
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doug

following the advice of the eq rep is wise...

here are 3 threads on selecting size, installing and adjusting it...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f232...use-28204.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f232...tly-33350.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ion-32805.html

those may help, the pictures in those threads are useful too.
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yeah running the haha & pee pee in series might be TOO MUCH VOLTAGE!

it is a fools game to 'recommend' a specific hitch brand here....

and just invites battles, besides THIS thread is about air bag hitches.

let's not hijack it.

i only replied to YOUR post because the "firmness" issue may be adjustment or hitch/bar rating selection in your case.

but there are MANY folks here who DO use the pivot point projection hitches and report nice experiences towing, with smaller rigs.

scan some of the hitch threads (rank them by "replies" or "views") and you can read their experiences.

single axle trailers ARE more prone to the wiggles and can get squirrelly too...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...rol-17986.html
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imv the critical thing with YOUR combo is fully inflated tires on the tv & trailer.

and properly balanced loads on the steering/drive axles, which can only be determined by a weigh in...

then careful LOADING to not exceed payload or cargo carry capacity or gcwr.

cheers
2air'

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Old 10-08-2009, 02:25 PM   #96
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Okay 2Air, got it. Thank you. I have done much research and done all by the book with the Equal-i-zer. My concern is whether the ride may be too harsh based on many posts by members and alarms raised by Inland Andy relative to trailer damage. I have seriously considered pivot point projection hitches as a method of reducing the load on the wd bars needed for friction-based sway control, and as a safer towing experience. The AirSafe sounds good too, but how many gadgets do we need between our truck and trailer? The forthcoming sojourn to the SW is 6 months so we'll sort it out as we go.

By the way 2Air, you know those towing gadgets are really just band-aids to correct the greater error of oversizing your trailer and tv, don't you?

Truly, Doug
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:58 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
...My concern is whether the ride may be too harsh based on many posts by...
seriously for one moment (and it won't last long)...

i don't buy the "needs a soft ride" line...

someone PLEASE tell me what brand/make/model trailer made by ANY company...

would NOT benefit from a soft ride.

IF there is a "FIRM ARSE RIDE REQUIRED" trailer model made, I WANT ONE!!!
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old trailers FALL APART eventually.

30 or 40 year old trailers that have been USED get loose and need upkeep, repairs and new rivets n bits from time2time...

when someone hooks up an old trailer with a zillion miles of use to newer tv and something FALL OFF in the first few months...

it's not because of the tv ususally, it's because the trailer is OLD.

blaming the tv is like blaming a NEW PAIR OF SHOES or SUSPENDERS,

when old farts die.

"yep it was those new shoes that killed ernie. at 85 he should have spent the money on beer and smokes, not shoes..."

"old willy was using OVER rated suspenders...he'd of made it to the 89th birthday IF he'd just stuck to the lighter models.."

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YOUR new trailer should be built to handle the load specification...

and to TOLERATE the normal CORRECTLY sized tow vehicles required to pull it.

IF that's not possible a/s needs to start over...

OR start selling reconditioned nash ramblers for towing...
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air o planes and jet mobiles need regular inspections for loose, worn, vibrated parts and FATIGUE.

properly done these space ships keep flying BECAUSE of this process.

of course the airlines and boeing COULD start blaming duty cycle issues on...
-FAT PASSENGERS and
-OVER SIDED LUGGAGE
-too much taxi-ing or too firm a tarmac..
-or global warming or
-heavy weather...
...

no foolin', those 7x7 series things boeing builds, really like a soft ride.
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many believe a/s is UNDER BUILDING units or have left OFF essential bits that weaken the frame/shell connection...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ion-35237.html

IF that's happening the t.v. isn't the problem or solution...

using the stream for YARD ART is.

until a/s SOLVES the structural issue relative to the WEIGHT and towing requirements.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
...you know those towing gadgets are really just band-aids to correct the greater error of oversizing your trailer and tv, don't you?Truly, Doug

and you have discovered the secret....

those of us with big units n fancy hitches have TINY TRAILER envy...

cheers
2air'
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