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Old 04-17-2009, 04:12 PM   #57
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Wow - just read this whole thread again. I am no more clear than before, but since you guys are well versed let me ask your opinion. I am towing a '69 31 foot Sovereign with a 2001 f350 crew, long bed 4x4. I think I might be beating up my trailer and I REALLY don't want to do that. What do you think my best option is?
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:27 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by nunya001 View Post
Wow - just read this whole thread again. I am no more clear than before, but since you guys are well versed let me ask your opinion. I am towing a '69 31 foot Sovereign with a 2001 f350 crew, long bed 4x4. I think I might be beating up my trailer and I REALLY don't want to do that. What do you think my best option is?
There are 3 things that contribute to damaging the trailer.

1. An excessive rated tow vehicle.

2. Excessive rated torsion bars.

3. Bad axles.

You already have # 1.

What brand hitch and what is the rating of the bars?

What is the condition of the axles?

The following will help you check them out.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:48 PM   #59
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Ok, ok, I am getting pretty close here, just a few more question to the Air Hitch experts.....

I have the Enkay rock tamer mud flaps:

Enkay MudFlaps | Home

I am going to get the Class 6 but looking at any of the higher capacity receiver hitches, I see an 8.5" shaft, one that I think is 6", then one that is 12.5". Which one do you think I need if I would still like to use my Enkay rock/mud flaps?

I assume I can take my Reese head(with ball) and simply unbolt it from my Reese draw bar and bolt it with the existing bolts to the drop/draw bar I pick up from Air Safe?

Also assuming I just buy the drop down bar (guessing 4" would suffice with a Suburban--right?) and the bolts to mount the drop bar to the Air Safe platform come with the drop bar/bracket?
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:58 PM   #60
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No problemo

I have the rock tamers. I discarded the center casting that goes on the bar, leaving just the curved arms to support the flaps. There were already holes in the side of the hitch that were perfect location to reattach the curved arms. All it took were some 5/8" bolts, nuts, washers, and lock washers from Tractor Supply. The result looks great and works perfectly. I'll post a photo shortly.

I later sold the center casting at a flea market to a guy who wants to make his own mud flaps.
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:05 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie View Post

I assume I can take my Reese head(with ball) and simply unbolt it from my Reese draw bar and bolt it with the existing bolts to the drop/draw bar I pick up from Air Safe?

Also assuming I just buy the drop down bar (guessing 4" would suffice with a Suburban--right?) and the bolts to mount the drop bar to the Air Safe platform come with the drop bar/bracket?
Yes, the original hitch mounting bolts work just fine.

The WD adapter mounting bolts do come with the hitch. They come with the non-WD platform that you will not be using rather than with the WD adapter..

I bought the standard length WD mount. With my 4WD Silverado, I am using the bottom holes and I get the perfect ball height. With the Suburban, you would probably use the top holes.
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Old 04-21-2009, 04:01 PM   #62
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Rock Tamers

Here is my inatallation. My flaps were right behind the exhaust, so I had to cut a hole.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:35 PM   #63
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Thanks for the info John. What length receiver shaft did you buy? It seems like the class 5s have a 6.5" and 8.5" shaft. I am told that there is either 4.5" from the center hole on the 6.5" shaft and about 6.5" from the center hole on the 8.5" shaft. If you got the 8.5" and are just clearing your bumper, that is a pretty tight fit. BTW, love the engineer in you with the rocktamers and the exhaust hole.

I noticed that yours does not have the shocks, do you notice any bouncing of the connection where the shocks might help curtail some extreme movements? Any thoughts on the class 6 having the shocks vs class 5?

I was also reading on one of the sites that using weight distribution additional factors need to be taken into account:

Receivers Air Ride Trailer Hitch for smoother and safer rides

When Weight Distribution Bracket is used on any Air Ride receiver hitch you must reduce tongue weight capacity by 20%, example… Class 5 – 1,400 tongue weight reduces to 1,120 lbs, Class 6 – 2,000 lbs to 1,600 lbs, Class 8 – 3,000 lbs to 2,400 lbs.

This was one of the reasons I was thinking of going class 6, not only for the shocks to help even the control, but also in case I opted at some point for a trailer with a heavier hitch weight. I know my hitch weight is listed as 750lbs, but I have weight it with a hitch scale and it clocked in, loaded with LP and normal items (nothing significant and no anvil collection) under the front sofa at 845lbs, which lead me to believe that others might also be higher than listed. Happy campers tells me the class 6 may be overkill, but something about having the shocks and some extra capacity built in seems to make sense to me...kind of like the unwritten using 80% of tow capacity.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2009, 07:24 PM   #64
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Shocks?

So far, I have not seen a reason for shocks. I have driven over some construction and the trailer appears rock solid.

I think shocks would reduce the benificial effects of the air bag by stiffening the ride.
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:52 AM   #65
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I agree, but then the sites also advise things like this, which gets me thinking about what if I upgrade trailers some day and exceed 850lbs of hitch weight. JCanavera's 30 slide has 1050 to 1100lbs of hitch weight (on paper). Not that I'm considering a slide this week, but these hitches aren't cheap.

Which Hitch capacity do I need?
We recommend that you do not exceed 75% of the hitch rating for your particular application. The reason for this is because most people under estimate the gross trailer weights and pin or tongue weights. As consumers we never know for sure unless we have the proper equipment to measure these items. This also allows for a larger trailer down the road, if we plan ahead. Our hitches work best when they are not maxxed out, but are in the 50-75% capacity range. This will give you the most movement and smoothest ride.
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:55 AM   #66
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Shocks are used on the air hitch when you have extreme tongue weight... with heavy tongue weight and a lot of air in the bag 80 psi + you can get what they call the basketball affect and the shocks cure the issue...
Hope this helps I know I am late to chime in but I just found this site.
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Old 07-13-2009, 06:25 AM   #67
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Keith, your explanation is logical to me.

Silvertwinkie, I would caution that getting an AirSafe hitch with shocks that provides way too much overcapacity could negate some of the beneficial effects. I would ask the factory first. It may be like putting axles on an Airstream which are overrated for the load, thus producing a ride which is too stiff and could cause problems. I just don't know.

I use the Class 5 Airsafe with a tongue load of about 800 pounds, and it provides a butter-smooth ride. It has no shocks, and from my experience, doesn't need them. If I recall correctly, my hitch is rated at a max of 1400 pounds tongue weight. I don't think I'll ever own a trailer that would approach this mass, but if I did, I would get the Class 6 or above to meet the need.
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:20 AM   #68
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Airstreamer67: ? what size shaft 6.5/8.5 TV 2007 Dodge 2500 T mega cab AS 30 C 2009 book TW 670. I 'm considering a class V. Class lV is interesting, but I am leery of the hollow shaft + WD adapter for my EL system Mel
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:23 AM   #69
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Airstream 67 follow-up: Class lV is GVRW 10,000 to tow. MY
AS is rated at 10,000 max. Mel
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Old 07-15-2009, 07:43 PM   #70
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I recommend to use a weight distribution and sway controls at all times… you will find with the AirSafe Hitch you will have all the cushion you need to protect the trailer from the ridged ride that weight distribution can create.
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