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Old 09-20-2016, 12:28 PM   #15
cwf
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Lots of technical explanations... I found this easy for me to understand.
http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Cara...owVehicle.aspx

Nose low on the trailer was nearly disastrous for ones I have Towed over my last 48 years with all types of trailers, cars and trucks. Loaded or not, bow never lower than level.

Our 34' runs about 2" high when rigged.. Truck loaded lowers back of truck. Trailer dips ... But not below 1" above level. When running down road, the dips in truck rear will usually not be long enough to induce instability. All trailers I towed hitch/nose low have been uncomfortable to pull
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:29 PM   #16
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I have been led to believe that this is OPPOSITE what you should do. Level is the goal but slightly down in front is better than high. Maybe we can get some support from those more in the know.

Your set up looks good to me. Weighing helps determine if the hitch is set up properly and returns weight to the steering axle.
My understanding also is that trailer being a bit nose down is OK, but nose up is not OK, as it increases the chance for fishtailing (due to center of gravity being pushed backwards).
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:31 PM   #17
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I have found the opposite.
Nose high on my rig rides terrible.
On my particular setup, I cannot get it dead level. One hole up is nose high. One hole down is nose low.
Nose slightly low provides better ride quality on my truck 'n'trailer.
Dead level would be ideal, but I would have to have a custom fabricated hitch shank to make it so.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:04 PM   #18
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Despite all the advice, the ground clearance on the hitch is what it will be no matter what tweaking is done. The hitch bars can take a bit of scraping and you won't be driving over any curb that would impact the hitch head. Nearly every trailer has reduced ground clearance at the WD bars. My Hensley rides at least that low. Have never grounded and I'm not a wussy driver worried about slopes and steep entrances.
It will be fine ...my opinion...of course
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:10 PM   #19
cwf
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M.Hony..
Wow.. Never had that happen to me... But, if that is how it works for you, that's great! After rebuild of our ProPride, I set the height to close level, just a bit low. When I hit 45MPH, the whole thing started wagging.. The whole rig, truck and AS! Violently. I moved up nose high and it works just fine.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:16 PM   #20
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Your trailer is sitting Fine. The biggest single thing that will change that is the conditions of the axles. Looking at the age of the trailer I would check the angle on the trailing arms of the axles. Look under and across to the other side and note the angle of the short arm that leave the axle tube and goes to the spindle for the wheel. New or axles in goo condition that angle will slope downward to the rear. If the angle is level or sloping upwards the axles have lost there oompf. Replacing the axles will raise the trailer and allow you to raise the hitch head and gain ground clearance.

An easy way to check the hitch set up is to, drive onto a flat surface, place a strip of painters tape on the truck fenders above the center line of the wheels. Measure and mark a line on the tape. Now disconnect the trailer and remeasure to those lines. The rear axle measurement will increase due to the reduction of the load. That is normal. The front axle will increase if your hitch is in fact transferring load to it. If the front axle measurement decreases your hitch need adjustment.

There is no standard ratio for thee measurement because of the number of variables involved but you want to see evidence that weight was transferred to the front axle.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:34 PM   #21
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Judging by your photos your set up appears pretty good. Slightly nose down is desired in my opinion as it adds a little more tongue weight to the TV which can be distributed by the WD bars to provide added steering traction. It also gives a little more clearance at the rear when turning into an up-slope or driveway and better resistance to sway. A low center of gravity is a positive characteristic of A/S as it reduces wind effect and gives better stability in general but too low may indicate sagging axles.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:39 PM   #22
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Photos can fool you at times, however it looks pretty good to me.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:44 PM   #23
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Looks good to me. How does it pull is the question
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Old 09-20-2016, 02:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickclifford View Post
Can you you explain that for a dummy , new to this. Find a scale station .. Drive truck and trailer to weigh together or just trailer assume, can't quite wrap head around this !
The DOT scales along the roadway that all the truckers are required to go in are "generally" not for people towing camping trailers. Go into a public scale. For examples: a truck stop, a shipping/moving company, a grain elevator might have a public scale.

https://catscale.com/how-to-weigh/
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Old 09-20-2016, 03:32 PM   #25
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Dot scales are public scales I've been using them for years.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:09 PM   #26
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Hitch set up looks good to me. Have co-pilot keep an eye on bars and remove them when necessary which will give you better traction when off pavement. Then you will have to watch dragging the spare tire mount which can be damaging; dragging the rear a bit usually won't hurt anything. I really try to stay on smooth ground with my long trailer.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:54 PM   #27
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Good evening fellow Airstreamers..
So far, it sounds like there are many good facts that can be used to determine if the hitch you are using is set up properly for your AS and tow vehicle.
A couple of simple specifications.
1. Start with AS and tow vehicle on dead level ground
2. Check level of AS: place level on inside of floor, and also measure from the ground up to a fixed point on the AS such as the lower" rub band" at the front and rear of the trailer. The distance should be equal.
3. Check the owners manual for the recommended "Ball Height" when connected to the tow vehicle.
4. When properly adjusted, the torsion bars should be parallel to the frame of the AS.
5. The tow vehicle should not drop more than 1.5 inches when hitched to the AS. 1 inch is really ideal.
6. Make certain that the torsion bars are rated for your trailer weight.
7. To make the torsion bars work properly, and support their rated load, it may be necessary to tilt the ball back toward the AS.

Keep in mind, that setting up the hitch and torsion bars properly is somewhat trial and error. There are sever combinations of adjustments that will create the perfect towing set-up. Changing one adjustment affect other adjustments.

When finished, the next trip you take will tell if the set up is correct. I actually made several adjustments to create the perfect towing set up.

Hope this helps
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpletKay06 View Post
Dot scales are public scales I've been using them for years.
I realize they are public in the sense that they are open to the public, but I have never used them.

It takes at least three trips across the scale to check the weight distribution, once without the trailer and twice with the trailer. Will they let you disconnect the trailer and weigh a few times so that you have adequate information?
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