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Old 11-03-2006, 08:10 PM   #29
Rivet Master
1963 19' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Moline , Illinois
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 636
Give the guys at Equal-i-zer a call. Their tech support is excellent and they will answer any question you have. I did this when I set my hitch up and thought it wasn't quite perfect. Big things are do you have the correct shank,I had to get a different size than the standard one that came with the hitch. Did you set it up per the instructions and how does it perform when towing.

Biggest thing I found in doing the setup is make sure you are on a level surface.

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Old 11-03-2006, 08:24 PM   #30
Rivet Master
1963 19' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Moline , Illinois
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 636
Looked at your pictures again and I can't say for sure but you might need the longer shank. I tow with a 2500 Dodge Ram 4x4 and had to go that route. Put 12,000 miles on the hitch last year and it was the greatest.

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Old 11-03-2006, 11:14 PM   #31
Rivet Master
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
Im late on this and that ok ,albertf has a great point that needs to be thought of .the hitch shank needs to be as close to the rear of the tv as is
possible without interference ,moving it closer in changes the sway action
of the trailer and does improve stability .I had to do exactly this procedure as he has described ,cut the shank down an have the hole redrilled .I effectively
moved it in about 4 to 5 " and a big difference .Now many will say it won't
help as my local RV guy had said (I had upgraded the vintage 1 3/4 reciever
to the standard 2 " ) and it stuck out 4" farther than the old one )but it
dramatically was different ,so putting inward as the old style was fixed my trouble instantly as far as the stability went. I see many folks hitches with
the shank way far out the rear of the TV ,by 6 8" or more ,and the farther out it is the more prone to sway or instability .That said ,some of these hitches can over come some of this ,mainly the reese dual cam .
This is just a helpful suggestion that works and may be able to help others as well .

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Old 11-03-2006, 11:40 PM   #32
Rivet Master

2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,377
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 55
Hi, while on that thought, mine must be just right because with my trailer hitched, I can't open my lift gate. [Too close to trailer tongue jack and propane cover.] Also my shank assembly dragged on the ground so I cut off the bottom hole which will never be used since I use the top hole for the ball bracket.

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Old 11-06-2006, 12:38 PM   #33
Rivet Master
bhayden's Avatar
1978 24' Argosy 24
Woodinville , Washington
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 661
Images: 10

I think we're in violent agreement over this

I haven't been able to take our rig to a scale yet but I have tried towing with the hitch adjusted with slightly more and less weight distribution to the front. I've done this by removing and adding one washer to the hitch angle which is the smallest incrementaly adjustment I can make. One chain link is a HUGE adjustment. With our set-up equal suspension compression front and rear is what works best. I can't say for sure without going to the scales (on the to do list) but I'm going to guess that it's pretty close to equal weight added to front and rear axles.

The (very) old instructions that came with our Reese hitch say to load set-up with the rear bias like you have. From what you and others have said that seems to be most applicable to HD trucks that were designed to carry a load in the bed. I've known a lot of people that routinely carry arround a few hundred pounds in the back of there trucks all the time just so that it handles and rides better.

I think one golden rule you pointed out is that as a MINIMUM you should restore the original amount of weight to the front axle and I think that can be determined without a scale just by measureing fender well height. I llike that measurement better than bumper height though both would probably work.

Thanks for the response,

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Old 11-06-2006, 01:08 PM   #34
Rivet Master
1975 29' Ambassador
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,351
" I think we're in violent agreement over this"

What we should not do is to forget the reason for load leveling hitches in the first place. The "one golden rule" gets close but is again missing the point.

What you are after is good handling in your rig. You want your rig to steer properly, drive a straight line, and stop safely.

Now, there are scads of gadgets, devices, techniques, add-ons, fixtures, and devices to improve vehicle handling. There are also all sorts of different vehicles that deal with loads in various ways. There are also personal preferences about how a vehicle should handle. And don't forget that issues of maintenance can be a big factor as in the choice of tires, tire pressure, and so on.

The lesson is that we shouldn't loose track of the forest in looking at trees.

There's a guy in Texas towing his Airstream trailer with an HDT. I don't think he uses either load level or sway control gadgets. He doesn't need them. I know people with F250 pickups who also don't need such things for towing 8k lb Airstream trailers.

Then there is the controversy Can Am stirs up even after they demonstrate the effectiveness of their efforts with track tests.

Let's not loose sight of the goal in arguing the fine points.

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