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dmcummins · 03-09-2011, 10:36 AM

I saw this http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-26279-50.html And was wondering if anyone else has modified their stinger to be able to adjust the heights? I just changed my receiver hitch on my 2005 chevy after reading some of the problems with the OEM hitch. The problem is the receiver is now 2" higher than it was originally. I bought my hitch used so I cant just send it in and a new stinger is around $250 shipped. I already have a straight bar and a 2" drop. I probably need at least 4", maybe 5".

Anyone have a discription on what they did? The above link looks like they welded a 2" square bar 90 degree's to the part that attaches to the Hensley. With holes drilled. Then are bolting that to a 2" square bar with heavy steel plates welded to the sides.

I am thinking of using a drop hitch that I already have and welding plates to the side of the shortened stinger. Kind of backward as the above.

This is the drop bar that I already have. Convert-A-Ball Cushioned Weight Distribution Shank for 2" Hitches - 10,000 lbs Convert-A-Ball Accessories and Parts AMAC1

Does anyone see any problems with this or have other ideas?

Jammer · 03-09-2011, 10:43 AM

I'm amazed that Hensley continues to insist on charging customers who have purchased used hitches punitive prices for parts.

You may be able to find someone who is willing to trade stingers.

slowmover · 03-09-2011, 11:09 AM

An adjustable stinger -- with tilt -- makes the PP worth buying even without the other advances. I changed stingers and was never able to distribute weight to the front axle. Not enough leverage. Nor was the stinger height ever close to perfect. I wound up slightly high and slightly low. But not slightly enough.

Aviator · 03-09-2011, 04:04 PM

You would need to contact Sean at ProPride, but I think they make an adjustable stinger which works with the Hensley.

dmcummins · 03-09-2011, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aviator

You would need to contact Sean at ProPride, but I think they make an adjustable stinger which works with the Hensley.

I'll give him a call.

**moosetags** · 03-09-2011, 11:03 PM

Please let us know the outcome.

Brian

crispyboy · 03-10-2011, 06:21 AM

DMCummins,
The idea your proposing sounds like it would work. Make sure you have heavy enough steel for the side plates, gussets and grade 8 hardware.

You can purchase the adjustable stinger from Sean.

The adjustable stinger has been all smiles

to date. I have used it on 3 different vehicles - all differing heights.

I started out with the straight stinger shown in the first picture.
I purchased the 2 x 2 steel with holes pre-drilled along with the side plates, gussets (2) and grade 8 bolts.
I cut the original stinger down to the size I needed, tack welded things in place and took it to a friend who welds for a living to stitch it together properly. It is painted now.
The only downside is that I believe this one is ~2" longer than what Sean sells and heavy of course.

dmcummins · 03-10-2011, 07:01 AM

Thanks crispyboy, Ive been looking at what you have done. What I was thinking was using the drop bar that I had from my old Reese hitch, rated at 2000 lbs tounge wt, 10,000lbs. It already has the holes drilled. Then welding the flat plates on the 2" bar on the side from the Hensley. Basically reversed of what you have.

dmcummins · 03-10-2011, 01:16 PM

This is what I'm thinking of.

dmcummins · 03-10-2011, 01:22 PM

This flat plates would give several places to weld to the original stinger. While this may not be as strong as welding solid 2" stock together, I would think that it would hold up to anything my 1/2 ton truck is going to be pulling.

And since Ive already cut my stinger I'm going to try something.

BigAl · 03-10-2011, 03:06 PM

Make sure those two steel plates don't interfere with the cam over latches and the head of the wrench used to operate them.
Al

dmcummins · 03-10-2011, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moosetags

Please let us know the outcome.

Brian

Sean was helpful, I bought a few pieces of steel from him that should save me some time. I'll post some pics when I get everything fabbed up. Like crispyboy, I'll probably just tack weld everything together and take it to a pro for the final welding.

JFScheck · 03-10-2011, 08:02 PM

Why not just buy a ProPride from Sean?

dmcummins · 03-10-2011, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFScheck

Why not just buy a ProPride from Sean?

If I was buying new I would. But I have to make do with with what I have for now.

crispyboy · 03-11-2011, 05:19 AM

DM,
When all said and done make sure everything fits together very tight. When I need to adjust mine it takes a little persuasion from a hammer. I hardly left enough room for paint - there is no slop in this connection.

Sean Woodruff · 03-11-2011, 11:19 AM

I wish I could make the Arrow adjustable bars cost effectively but it just isn't the case.

What Mark is doing, And Crispy already did, is probably the best option.

If "they" would make their hitch boxes better it wouldn't be such a problem.

Compare the two and you'll see why a 3P bar can't fit in the Arrow.

Also, as a side note, Arrow owners should check the warping/bending of the top edge of the box as shown in the Arrow box on the left. It affects weight distribution because it will not engage the hitch bar properly.

JFScheck · 03-11-2011, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmcummins

If I was buying new I would. But I have to make do with with what I have for now.

Oops, sorry - good point...

**moosetags** · 03-11-2011, 01:33 PM

I seem to remember that at one point, Sean at PP was offering an adjustable height hitch bar that would work with the HAHA.

Brian

dmcummins · 03-16-2011, 07:46 PM

I got this in the mail from Pro-Pride.

dmcummins · 03-16-2011, 07:50 PM

And now I have this. If I didn't already have the drop bar, I would have just copied the PP stinger. I still have some work to do on it. Its to tight, I'll have to take some off of the sides. And Then I'll paint. In the pic I have it set up for around 5". That should be closer to what I need.