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Old 11-20-2019, 07:10 PM   #1
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2002 30' Classic S/O
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Adapter Binding in Class V Receiver

I have a 2013 Ram 2500 with a Class V (2-1/2") receiver and tow with a Propride hitch with a 2" shank. I use an adapter in the receiver. My locking pin has an angled end and a straight end that the lock goes on to.

I have developed burrs around the inside of the hole in the receiver that the locking pin goes through. I think the bend in the locking pin makes it possible for the pin to move while towing and the motion hammers the edge of the hole in the receiver. The burrs make it difficult to get the adapter into the receiver and even harder to get it out.

I'm going to grind the burrs and am thinking about changing my pin in hopes of preventing further damage. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and if so, what was the solution?

Thanks,

Al
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:31 PM   #2
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Having read about similar experiences with 2.5 to 2” adapters, I started out of the gate with a 2.5” stinger for my ProPride so never had that problem. Downside is it’s about 60# assembled - whew!

I think others have tack welded the adapter in the right place to prevent the slop/movement.

Someone will chime in on that with their experience. Good luck!
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:47 PM   #3
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Wasilla , Alaska
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i feel your frustration

Our F350 has a 3" receiver and the 2" ProPride we brought over from the F150 is a little "lost" even with the two adapters: 2 to 2.5 and 2.5 to 3. Figures, as there must be some slack in order to prevent binding at each level. Thought I had a solution by obtaining a 2" weld-on receiver and simply using it as an adapter instead, but the dimensions were not right.

So - having some sheet aluminum left over from aircraft panel work, I simply cut a variety of strips to use as shims between the adapters and between the largest adapter and the receiver mounted on the truck. It does not remove all the slack, but helps greatly. The shims were lubed up and tapped in wherever they would fit - top, bottom or sides. They stay put pretty well, and still permit removal of the ProPride shank with a few taps with a hammer.
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