I am very pleased with my Propride, however I have noticed slight deformation of the reciever, I am getting slop in the hitch. I fabricated a steel shim, but I got slop again as the deformation continued. I have a heavy load and a Ford Excursion. So I develop a lot of torque.
Question is, has anyone experienced this and what was their fix?
If the trailer is heavily loaded in front and the truck heavily loaded behind the rear axle, you may be able decrease the force on the hitch connection by moving some of your load, aft in the trailer (keeping in mind at least 10% on the tongue) and forward in the Excursion.
After one especially heavy/poorly balanced load on a trip, we made an effort to do this after we got home. I try to keep the load behind the truck's axle extremely light, and carry only the lightest gear forward in our Airstream. We slide the recliners back for travel. We added a washer for more downward tilt, readjusted the hitch drop bar for the lighter load, and now use less tension on the ProPride's 1400# w.d. bars.
2016 30' International
, North Fort Myers FL
Join Date: Jul 2014
The stock OEM receiver which came with my GMC P/U, before I hitched to our 28', was reinforced by CANAM with 2 pieces of steel plate welded to frame components exactly to prevent torsional damage to the receiver.
Andy's explanation was simple. As I recall today, he simply said the OEM receiver install is not adequate and his recommended solution was to weld some plate to improve use and safety.
Having towed thousands of miles since, I can report my receiver appears to be in perfect condition.
PM me direct if you need more info/pix on this particular fix.
Note that receiver failures like these result from ALL types of WD hitches due to the torque they're imparting on it to distribute the load to F & R axles - not just the ProPride & Hensley 3Ps - & any heavy non-WD load trailer can do the same.
Most of the racer guys I know who tow heavy car haulers with car(s) + parts get their reinforced & get a good quality one to start with, if the OEM/factory one is iffy.
Get yours fixed or replaced before that 1500 miles to home, to be safe.
Your shim "fix" is only closing the gap to keep the deformation going until total failure!
Tom T (janabanana48's other half )
1960 Avion T20, #2 made, Hensley Cub, TV tbd- looking for 08-14 Cayenne S
1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia CamperGL (Orig Owner)
My old Airforce Sgt. once told me: "If it moves, lube it!" "If it doesn't move, paint it!"....."If it talks back, salute it!"
When starting out as an RVer, I noticed a number of receivers, rusted and beaten all to hell. So with my Toyota 4-Runner, having an aftermarket 'Hidden Hitch', I measured the clearance between the receiver and the shank. It was .064".
I therefore made two shims, of .060 steel strapping, 5/8" hole in one, and it worked out great. A modicum of play, that's all.
In keeping with my Sgt's dictum, I grease the shank and shims, everytime I install the two.
I do it now, with my Ford F-150, OEM hitch, and Reese shank.
I have been using this for over 6 years now; no problems, no rust, no beat-up receivers; just a messy assembly that I need to wear gloves, when putting them together.
Sometimes it's tough to slide the shank into the receiver, due to grease build-up, but after a trip, out it comes, easy-peasy.
I have been towing a 25' 'Cloud' so far, but traded it in for a 30' 'Cloud'. Haven't towed it yet; it's in winter storage, so I'll have to wait till the Spring to see how it handles.