I am very pleased with my Propride, however I have noticed slight deformation of the reciever, I am getting slop in the hitch. I fabricated a steel shim, but I got slop again as the deformation continued. I have a heavy load and a Ford Excursion. So I develop a lot of torque.
Question is, has anyone experienced this and what was their fix?
The only fix for a bad OEM hitch receiver, no matter what hitch is used in it, is a new and higher quality receiver. Many of the OEM's are marginal at very best.
I don't know which is "best" as I have done no research on the subject. But if you look at post #74 of this thread you will see how flimsy many OEM hitches are in comparison to a well made one.
If you consider the forces from the hitch in the reciever, the design is compromising. The forces are directed to the top front and lower rear of the reciever interior.
This connection experiences extreme moment forces, it should be fully welded, not a sloppy loose connection.
I don't know what the fix is just yet, I need to get home. I am 1500 miles from home.
Perhaps the fix is nothing more than a new hitch reciever. Although I'd love to see something with much more beef. The 30' trailer on an Excursion is a tremendous force on the reciever.
If the trailer is heavily loaded in front and the truck heavily loaded behind the rear axle, you may be able decrease the force on the hitch connection by moving some of your load, aft in the trailer (keeping in mind at least 10% on the tongue) and forward in the Excursion.
After one especially heavy/poorly balanced load on a trip, we made an effort to do this after we got home. I try to keep the load behind the truck's axle extremely light, and carry only the lightest gear forward in our Airstream. We slide the recliners back for travel. We added a washer for more downward tilt, readjusted the hitch drop bar for the lighter load, and now use less tension on the ProPride's 1400# w.d. bars.
The stock OEM receiver which came with my GMC P/U, before I hitched to our 28', was reinforced by CANAM with 2 pieces of steel plate welded to frame components exactly to prevent torsional damage to the receiver.
Andy's explanation was simple. As I recall today, he simply said the OEM receiver install is not adequate and his recommended solution was to weld some plate to improve use and safety.
Having towed thousands of miles since, I can report my receiver appears to be in perfect condition.
PM me direct if you need more info/pix on this particular fix.
Vintage Kin Owner
Vintage Kin Owner
Orange
, California
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,023
Reciever Failures from ALL WD's - Not Just 3Ps
For all out there reading this ....
Note that receiver failures like these result from ALL types of WD hitches due to the torque they're imparting on it to distribute the load to F & R axles - not just the ProPride & Hensley 3Ps - & any heavy non-WD load trailer can do the same.
Most of the racer guys I know who tow heavy car haulers with car(s) + parts get their reinforced & get a good quality one to start with, if the OEM/factory one is iffy.
Get yours fixed or replaced before that 1500 miles to home, to be safe.
Your shim "fix" is only closing the gap to keep the deformation going until total failure!
Be Safe!
Tom
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Tom T
Orange CA
1960 Avion T20, #2 made, Hensley Cub, TV tbd- looking for 08-22 Cayenne S, EH, etc
1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia CamperGL (Orig Owner) + 1970 Eriba Puck
My old Airforce Sgt. once told me: "If it moves, lube it!" "If it doesn't move, paint it!"....."If it talks back, salute it!"
When starting out as an RVer, I noticed a number of receivers, rusted and beaten all to hell. So with my Toyota 4-Runner, having an aftermarket 'Hidden Hitch', I measured the clearance between the receiver and the shank. It was .064".
I therefore made two shims, of .060 steel strapping, 5/8" hole in one, and it worked out great. A modicum of play, that's all.
In keeping with my Sgt's dictum, I grease the shank and shims, everytime I install the two.
I do it now, with my Ford F-150, OEM hitch, and Reese shank.
I have been using this for over 6 years now; no problems, no rust, no beat-up receivers; just a messy assembly that I need to wear gloves, when putting them together.
Sometimes it's tough to slide the shank into the receiver, due to grease build-up, but after a trip, out it comes, easy-peasy.
I have been towing a 25' 'Cloud' so far, but traded it in for a 30' 'Cloud'. Haven't towed it yet; it's in winter storage, so I'll have to wait till the Spring to see how it handles.
A friend here was trying to figure out why his AS and PP hitch were not performing "well"...turns out he had a weak/worn/permanently damaged/ unusable (unsafe) "receivers"... I have had my own 'receiver" failures which were due to poor materials, poor welding, improper strength bolts... ... but above all, I 'bent' them.....I over stressed, overloaded and ignored them....
Some may say it is 'ok' to tow with marginal equipment... and they do... but it risks .... hopefully you won't tear up anything...... or anyone.. especially someone you love......
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Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
The hitch looks fine. It just has slop. When I get back, the truck is going to Can-Am.
To get it home, I will take some weight distribution off, go slow and watch it close. There is no one here in Juptier, FL who can work on an Ex. The hitches were class V and " blocker bars" the Curt replacement is a class IV.
CWF has a point. I was shocked when I read the thread title as a 3P owner. I looked up the Excursion factory receiver rating. I do not know if it is the exact same one as yours but according to the Ford info, the Excursions come standard with a receiver rated for towing 5000 lbs with 500 lb tongue weight for non-weight distributing and 8800 lbs with 1000 lb tongue weight weight distributed hitch. I would say that is the problem- too great a load for the receiver. I do not know your weights but can almost guarantee that you are over based on my 25' Airstream with a 990# tongue weight and 7000# GVW. Your "advertised" weights are 8880# and 885#- my guess is your tongue is more like over 1000.
I disagree with those saying it is poor OEM receivers. Just looked, there are some Class V hitches you might consider. Be safe.
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WBCCI 8653/AIR 60240
2022 Ford F150 PowerBoost Platinum w/7.2KW
POI...it too has the bit-O-slop syndrome. A feature noted more with the boat, 380Lb TW, as opposed to the AS with it's 1200Lb TW.
The Reese has a sleeve welded in which has the added benefit of adding some extra thickness to the pin hole to prevent excess ware.
The StowAway hitch tightener can be seen here....boat tow set-up.
....along with my greasy ball cover remover and hitch'n guide rod...
Stream Happy....
Bob
This is exactly the device I use. Works perfectly. The trailer tows even better and less noisy with the slop/play removed from the receiver.
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2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
The Burb's OEM....short mount arm=poor moment of purchase.
....with this style hitch I could barely move 600lbs with 1400lb WD bars.
The Reese mounts are over twice as long and extra length improves the leverage, enough to move 820 with 1000b bars.
Bob
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I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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